Adriano

Except a remap is as good as a pfc, and leagues better than a safc

7.5:1 at a guess

Why do you want the ebc when you are already running 11 psi?

Yes but it may not handle the torque

If you are after 450rwkw, then i would use rb26 arp head studs with the block machined to suit

I would use rb25 ones, they are good enough for 600hp

It is the boost that kills the turbo, not 100,000km, htere are heaps of stockers with more than double that on the original turbo. I would just get the stock ecu remapped(toshi?) leave the boost, stock intercooler. you could sell the boost controller as you wont reallly be able to use it. Just the ecu will gain you more power than the boost/exhaust, as the r34 ecu's have a fit even with just an exhaust.

Have you considered a pair of reground rb26 cams like cubes has?

Compressor surge shouldn't cause running issues if its running a map sensor

No it bolts on from the back same asa the original. Most of the factory ones i have seen are adjustable the same as that one, but not as much, its just that the adjusting bolts are behind the camwheel, so not easily adjusted.

Mate thats not too bad at all, ive seen heaps worse out of cars that run fine. you can get it line honed if you like, from what i can see in the photos that wouldnt have been caused by metal going throgh it, if metal goes through, then the damage is usually heaps worse.

So to get one in australia you have to pay more, just as if you bought one locally, it wouldn't be $1150, especially considering $1150 is if you dont declare its value to customs. I would recommend you read the rules about posting in peoples for sale threads unless you want a ban

?

Depends on the quality of the remap, most of the jap ones ive seen are rubbish(and thats from the big companies)

Sounds like a wiring issue, is the alternator being energised by the smaller plug on it? Id the charge light on? Are you using th er32 or r33 alternator?

Seriously if you are hoping for 6-700hp then the cost of the transmission will pale in comparison to the rest of the build, allow $5000 for retaining the auto with an ecu, or $6000 and up for a manual conversion with an ecu.

YOu are wasting your time fitting a rear oil return and not fitting restrictors, the restrictors work about 100 times better than a rear oil return.

YOu culd try to equalise the preload, or as you say, slowly increase the air pressure with an air compressor, and watch the movement.

What bov(s) is it running?

Almost guarantee it will have a remapped stock ecu, if you dont want to do any mods to it i would either ensure you always run the best fuel you can get or retard the timing a few degrees, but get it checked on the dyno first, usually the jap tunes run rich, but too much timing for our fuel, which can cause detonation.

Check trouble codes, thats what they are there for.

Another supposed benefit of the multi throttles is improved part throttle volumetric efficiency/torque/fuel efficiency, due to the throttles being a barrier to the reversion when using bigger cams.

Unfortunately its not that simple, as only one cylinder breathes through each throttle(obviously), so its not all the time, only on intake stroke. As for issues with uneven distribution with intake plenums, uras recently posted some interesting info, and there is plenty of evidence of it being an issue with rb26's, as almost every one that cracks a piston does it on #6, although this could be a combination of plenum distribution and uneven cooling system distribution. or my setup im running multi throttles, with ram tubes and the biggest custom plenum i can fit in the bay to try and minimise the distribution problem by unshrouding the ram tubes and slowing the airflow velocity through the plenum over the ramtubes.

^^^^^Do you monitor your afr's?

Just use your rb25 engine mounts, althouhg the customised mounts may be to allow it to fit under a standard r33 bonnet.