Adriano

i would figure out whats wrong with the old motor before ordering anything

cam timing for sure

just run amanagement that has traction control

i would say 99% chance the timing belt has jumped, if the belt is a bit loose, a small backfire under cranking could be enough. being that it hasnt really run since, i would reset the timing belt then do a comp test

oil drain should be bigger than the feed

no, one foul of the plugs is nowhere near enough to cause a loss in compression,what did the mechanic suggest was the cause? most likely reason is timing belt

do you hv a plot of the afr's, ignition breakdown will show up as lean spikes

fuel pressure is always measured before the reg, thats where the injectors are

pretty sure they are 1mm bigger than 269 on both inlet and exhaust

i had to pay the gst to the government when it came in, seem'd like awaste of time as i claimed it on mybas the next day

my egay one fits fine

and the rotors, brake lines handbrake cable etc

Whats the general opinion on gapless rings, I understand they aren't far superior as a well gapped motor will have minimal end gap at operating temp, but I tend to think with this problem every 1% leakdown improvement assists the oil problem by 10%

About 24-25kg from memory

200kw rav 4

For flyscreens i use a makita drop/mitre saw about 220mm diameter wood blade, they are about 260 new or 150 on ebay s/h perfect angle cuts, light and fine for wood/aluminium

please put the intercooler in hte middle, nothing looks worse

have you checked the earths?

Good point except for the insulation, apparently heaps of installers disappeared shortly after the scheme was closed without BAS/Tax returns.

Wow, are all speedhunters articles soo bad, first they say the engine and drivetrain is out of an r35, then at teh end it says hollinger sequential, big difference between this car being 2wd and AWD, then no dyno can handle the torque of this motor...great car, but ruined by the muppet journalist

Before you go spending heaps on wheel bearings, i would put it on stands or a 2 post hoist and run it up in gear, use a screwdriver or stethescope on hte hub to determine what is the problem. I seriously doubt a wheel bearing has gone at 45,000km, even 100,000 is fairly unusual, but not unheard of +3hours to press one in is a bit steep. Should be able to comfortably do it in 1.5

Ive git one in my driveway, remember xr6's have the tickford motor which is higher comp, This one is auto with a built box(the stocker didnt last long) running a 1.06 twin scroll gt35r, i think a 3076 would be fine as long as you ran a 1.06 housing. What are your plans for the dual fuel that would be the biggest issue, but you could put gas injection on it whaich runs its own ecu, just be limited with HP, dont want to end up spending 10K to get the whole thing done

At teh end of the day ANCAP is a bit of a joke, if I was in a head on i would rather be in a GW than an I30(or hundreds of other new cars), its simple physics, the GW is higher and heavier, just dont run into a ranger or landcruiser etc, then again i drive trucks, so i only need worry about tanks, cliffs or immovable objects

I find it kind of ironic that everyone is saying how they are as dangerous as a 10 year old car, when we are on a forum that 95% people own 10+ year old cars that cost them more than a 3 year old GW, just sayig

If its a cable drien 4 post, then you can simply wind the mechanism with a big shifter, had to do it a few times when the power went out to get customers cars off