Adriano

MY guess is that the L20 turbo would be choking the setup. Does it have an intercooler? If not the dizzy may have been regraphed to reduce the overall advance, hence killing the top end. These motors dont seem to make hp even with pretty big setups(which you dont have) They are nice and torquey, but dont have a great deal of top end. Im not sure if they are a long or short nose diff, but if they are long nose(which i think they are)then you can fit late model lsd centre to your crownwheel and housing, but you will need axles made to suit, or you can get them from the states. The stock axles are the weak link anyway.

Ive got 10.2mm 272deg toda cams that apart from the head clearancing and upgraded springs(hks) dropped straight in with a few shims needed here and there.

100kpa absolute, your not kidding there is no vacuum

In map sensored ecu's, the air temp sensor in necessary to obtain the air density, however in an afm setup, the afm measures the mass of the air, so is self compensating for the air temp. Im willing to bet the soarers dont use the sam estyle of temp sensor as the rb26. One other major issue i have with comparing dyno figures to MPH is that even the calculators dont allow for the shape of the torque curve, wherby a meaty fat torque curve will certainly be faster than a peaky setup making the same peak power.

IMO the factory Air temp sensor is a joke, it is the same sensor as the coolant temp sensor, so operating in air makes it about as responsive as an ocean liner, It doesn't effect fueling, only retards the timing above 70deg.

I agree, pretty sure they are all the same

I would ask the mafia if the flat spot could be as a result of the WMI setup, possibly reversion in the AFM is tripping the WM and filling the intercooler pipe with a dose of water?

There is no need to push the cold air into the pods, if you seal them from the engine bay air, and allow a path of the cold air then the pods will draw it in themselves. What Front mount are you using? at 380rwkw i would be looking at upgrading from the stocker. 50deg intake temps are high unless you are living in darwin, is this when yopu are under load or cruising?

Its more likely the manifold than the head itself, is it a china stainless manifold, they are soo far from flat at both flanges it isnt funny.

Are you talking about the shuffle or the richness? PS i have a wideband, but im in sydney.

I would stick a wideband on it and go for a drive. If it runs really rich when it is shuffling, If it runs lean then it may indicate a missfire, then you can narrow it down to that, but i would sya it is running rich far more often than that to thin the oil in that time. Seperating the charge all the way though the intercooler may help, but a balance pipe between the manifolds is more likely to help, It might help to know exactly what turbos you have, 2871's shouldnt really surge, but 2876's most likely would. Can you post up a screeenshot of the fuel map.

I just dont see how the surge would be causing the overfueling, as its d-jetro.

Do you forsee any issues with the difference in themal expansion between the block and girdle?

T2/T28

Exhaust sold, looking for $400 inc post for the turbo, not neg.

Series 1

There is no nistune board for an r33 gtst

Compression was done cold, but was 150psi+-3psi, no loom is available. $100 for the exhaust, air box is sold.

Yes the injector port centres would be the same, however you would need collars to make the injectors seal, and weld mounts onto the rail to secure it to the rb25 inlet manifold.

I just fitted a gtr ecu to a gtst, bridges the o2 sensors and the afm pins inside the ecu, making it a plug in unit. Nistune board fitted just had to rescale the afm curve to suit the custom afm.

If the engine is a little worn, blowby will produce crankcase prsuure which acts upon the turbo seals pushing a little oil out.

And if you are near it if it ruptures then you could get some nasty frostbite..

^^^^Yeah good luck with that. No hope, you are fitting injectors that are a lot bigger, there is no self learning on th estock ecu. In closed loop it will try to lean it out, but nowhere near enough to get to 14.7:1. O2 feedback is only a trim, of 5% or so.

This varies massively with different turbo setups. Ideally it will be less than intake manifold pressure, but that is ideal. most street cars run about 2-2.5 times the boost pressure.

Chech engine light and temp gauge should be easy, but the tacho may well pose a challenge, finding a petrol gauge cluster may well be the easiest way, as diesel tacho's are usually run off the alternator, or are mechanical!