1- You wouldhave to ask your machine shop, but $150 should be about right
2- $60 or so
3- They are standard size
4- Either, but i would go to Auto one
5- Not much
6- Little end bushing, from what i can gather from the rest of your post i wouldn't worry about it.
And its SHOULD
Cas will be in the right spot. There is no need to replace anything, just need to take more time when installing the cas. I call bulls@#t to the theory that the cas drive wears allowing the timing to jump around, and the pin certainly doesn't do anything once the splines are engaged. There is no way this can blow your motor. All early rb's have a mitsubishi cas.
Im running 272deg 10.8mm, but im going for a heap more power than you are after. If the cams are cheap grab them for later, but i wouldn't bother fitting them at this stage.
I wouldn't have bothered with the stock rods, as by the time you do all that work it ends up costing the same as some aftermarket ones. The coating on the pistons is about .1mm, so it wont effect piston-valve clearance.
Its the two pin sensor on the thermostat housing. Have you done a diagnostic check, all but the temp sensor will throw a code, and the sensor itself can be checked quite easily.
How are you planning on disabling R & R, fitting a resister instead of the knock sensor wont do it, all it does is get rid of the safety of knock retard if knock occurrs.
Mount it further back, and above the horizontal, other wise the sensor will point down and get snapped off if you drive it. Make sure you get all 6 cylinders.
I am also interested. In regards to the rb25 manifold with 500rwhp, did you then replace it with a different one without gain, or are you assuming that it wasnt causing a restriction?
Reacon you can get 11's witha stock intake, turbo and exhaust. Im pretty sure if you get pulled over with NOS hooked up its not a simple defect, it endds up basically the same situation as not having a cat?