Adriano

People are revving stroked 3.4L 2jz's to 8000 rpm. I suspect it will rev as hard as the turbo, head, cams will allow, or the block will snap in half along the welsh plug holes!

Front and rear are different of that helps

You can get a silicon hose made to go from the airbox to the turbo, there wasa group buy on here, or you can get them of ebay.

Not that massive a job, just make sure you seat teh speedy sleeve far enough on the crank that it doesn'a intefere with the flywheel. Could also be caused by blowby causing crankcase pressure to push the seal out.

I am curious as to why you are doing this conversion, when a NEO already is basically a rb26 with the added bonus of vct. For the cost of the conversion you could easily put a good turbo on the neo and make heaps more power everywhere that the rb26. Its not like the rb26 is heaps stronger. You can always put rb26 covers on the 25 so at least it looks pretty.

Im assuming it is Rwd?

I would consider a massive custom sump, just for the comp, if you can 12 or 13 litres down there then it will take a lot longer to cook the oil, and a lot more oil to have to displace before the pickup gets air.

For The Win, or FTMFW, add a Mother-ucking in there

If i were in your predicament, i would seriously consider selling it and buying a proper matched turbo. As you seem aware, a 3082 is behind the 8 ball, as teh ex wheel is too small to generate enough torque to accelerate the rotating mass quickly. And by using a .63 exhaust, it is partially alliviating that, but adding high backpressure to the equation. I would be fitting a .82 3076, as IMO it is the ideal turbo for an rb25 after 280-300rwkw. Even if you fit the rb30 (which i dont think you will need to)the same turbo can be used, and fry the tyres up to the legal speed limit with more response than you can poke a stick at. If you feel you must have more than 300rwkw, then bite the bullet and get a real gt35r, with a .82internal or you can get away with an external gate .63, but i believe on pump fuel the exhaust backpressure will limit the power to far less than the comp wheel is capable of making. We need something between a gt30 and gt35!

I was referring to the 9 sec vl

Prepped dtock rods with arp bolts, stock r33 balancer with gtr oil pump. Only plan to rev it hard enough before it starts nosing over, probably about 6500

But by your analogy the greddy kit isnt cheap either, $1100 for the plenum(they have probably gone up with the dollar) $200 Q45 throttle body $100 Gaskets $??? S13 throttle cable $800 Upgrade injectors $??? Fitting $??? Intercooler piping ECU and tuning still apply. Althoug you could run either setup on a remapped ecu

Or get a nistune, basically a chip that can be retuned in real time on the dyno

Hi, just about finished a 25/30 neo running acl forgies with 8.8:1 comp, gtr inlet cam, tomei 264 deg exhaust cam, r33 stock exhaust manifold. ONly looking for a streetable 300rwkw. Slide tells me he doesn't do internal gates for these turbos as they always have boost control issues, wheras morrie from HPIAB tells me he has never had any issues. I would love to run the .82 for the extra response, but the 1.06 will give lower backpressure, and possibly make the boost control easier, but at the expense of some response. However i may be able to run a little more ignition timing which will assist it off boost. The part number i have been quoted is 700382-12. I was under the impression there is a bigger wastegate flap option that changed the part number, but morrie tells me it only comes with the standard garrett flap? What do you guys think?

Suit r32, r33 or r34?

And is it definately internal gate?

Its called match porting, and nissan usually does a bad job of it

No, i made it up

If the motor is not in the car, you may be able to use a pickup off the flywheel

On the exhaust yes, but the inlet no unless you loose the vct

Simple fix, use an rb30 bottom end, then you have heaps of clearance.

Consult will read knock for under $100

Thats great, shame you can get the same thing for $22

I tried dropping them in an rb20, and it lost about 80% power up to 4000rpm, when we decided to pull them out

Why dont you just do a diagnostic search, that will reveal if the AFM is dodgy, ps what voltage is it seeing at idle?