Adriano

Easy, do the bolts up

You just drill a hole in the cover so the centre of the camwheel sticks out.

What sort of ignition timing is it runing up top?

I dont see how that setup could foul your intercooler piping, plenty of other people have done it. You really want to have the wastegate fairly close to the manifold

Mate 380 hp should be a walk in the park, with no need ot rev to 10000rpm to make it. If you fot a 3071, than you will only have to run about 7psi to make the power you are after, in which case you could easily leave teh comp ratio at 10:1

I have a modified rb26 front cover that clears the vct actuator, $75 if you are interested. You dont actually need the rb26 backing plate, its very easy to modify the NEO one to suit, just need to trim the corners off the plate, and remove the vacuum pipe that runs across the back of it.

To mod the rb25 head, i drill and tap the oil gallery and fit a m8 grubscrew in there, then get the head welded where the water gallery is close to the edge of the head gasket, i had a head welded and surface ground for $100.

Although the rb30 head bolts are the same thread, they are much longer. I would be using the rb25 torque.

He said that it has 550cc injectors in it.

Wow, that was really helpful, thanks

Ideally you would have two sensors, one on the crank and one on the cam. The crank sensor dictates the injector and ignition timing, and the cam sensor seta the sequence, this way the movement stops the timing jumping around with the timing chain.

An s13 with any rb in the front(they all weigh pretty much the same) adds probably about 80kg to the front end, thats why you dont see too many s13rb26 race cars.

Might want to do your sums again, 48% + 62% = 110%

About time, will be looking forward to the results

Sounds like the cam gear is stuffed, or as 3litre 32 said, the adjusting bolts at the back of the camwheel may be loose.

Are you sure its very different to 2 door r33's, sounds like the same setup

Just had a quick look, and the ecu breaks down the AFM input into .08v cells, but there may be interpolation between these

True, but how do you know what the amplitude of the noise in the wiring would be?

Sorry dan i will have to disagree with you on those two, .01v will certainly be of concern, due to the exponential voltage/airflow curve of the afm, at low airflows the AFM is very sensitive. All factory AFM's and CAS's that i have seen have shielded wiring to combat electrical "noise". As for wiring the issue isnt so much with the sloder, its the process of slodering that work hardens/heat treats the copper wiring adjacent to the solder, similar to why metal often breaks right next to a weld. I like to use double crimp terminals and add a small mount of solder at the tip of the wire, therefore the "heat treated" wire is secured by the second crimp. anyhow i think we are getting a bit OT

A graph would help

I fitted one to an rb26, IMO the exhaust housing chokes it a bit, the car made 320rwkw at 16 psi. a better setup would be a gt3076 with either a .63 or .86 housing.

And if oyu want even more drivability and low down torque, fit a .86 gt3078, but dont expect to see over 320rwkw

OT, but 200rwkw will have a lot more traction in an r32 than an r31.

I would definately upgrade the rods for 350rwkw, thats about the safe limit of the stockers. By the time you fit ARP rod bolts, and get them sidepolished and shotpeened, big and little ends resized there isnt much difference in the cost.

I would definately try to get some oil through the system before starting it. you can try removing the oil filter, turning the motor backwards and filling the pump through the oil filter hole, or hae you got an air compressor, you could remove the oil filter, apply some compressed air to the crankcase and turn it over, but you will need to block the breathers and make sure you dont give it tooo much pressure.