Adriano

You can drill the stock oil returns from 8mm to 9.5mm (3/8 inch) with a long drill bit. Also drill out the 5 holes in the sump that go from the back of the sump section to the main area from about 1mm to about 4mm. Lastly you can fit an external return to the back of the head. Another idea which i will soon be investigating is a breather in the crankcase, to remove the blowby that prevents the oiol travelling down the drains.

Idle mixture screw LOL, must be a carby. Sounds like R&R, or a fuel supply problem.

Curious, what valve clearances did you end up running?

There are plenty of cams that retain the VCT, and if you buy a forged rb30 bottom end and put a an rb25 head on it, the comp ratio will be too low

Wow, my rays payton places look heaps different to those, heaps worse.

Xr6t

2 points: Autronic does not have an air temp fuel correction map, this is for a very good reason, its a mathematical formulae, whereby the change in temp effects density. The change is far more than you would believe. I have tuned 2 cars with adaptronics without Air temp sensors. The frist one was a brumby with no intercooler, left with a 12:1 tune at WOT. Customer fitted a water/air intercooler, running exactly the same boost, came back running 14:1 WOT. The other car was tuned conservatively in winter, and when it got hot in summer would blow black smoke. So i could either retune it every 6 months, or lean it out, then in winter it would run lean. I understand that the sensors are available, and there is a table in there, but for the added expense to adaptronic to make the product correctly, i wouldnt risk it, i mean all the ecu's should come with it, and the table should be set and locked. I mean put it this way, if you are a customer, and have a P&P ecu fitted, then down the track the motor blows due to the ecu who do you blame? I have the formula somewhere for the change in density VS air temp, and it is quite substantial, there is also the effect of humidity, but i think the design of an air temp sensor must incorporate this also.

They are a very capable unit, however i have issues with andy selling plug and play units without an Air temp sensor, which is absolutely essential for a map sensored ECU.

Interesting that you can fit a t78 lowmoiunt though?

Proengines recommended .003"-.004" (.075-.1mm). thrust

Without

Its the top tensioner you want to move a fraction from the pdf, about 1-2,, to the left. Im using 2 tensioners, as it allows me to make the cam timing marks align exactly with the differences in deck height of a machined block/head, and thinner or thicker headgasket. ie if you tighten the bottom tensioner, and loosen the top, it advances the cam timing of both cams.

But OEM doesn't have head studs, they are bolts.

SK posted a pic of the thinner OS spacer not too long ago.

Sounds like ignition problem. When tehre is a missfire, the AFR goes lean, as an O2 sensor measure oxygen, which there is plenty when there is no spark.

If it is on an rb25, then you can sell the PFC for more than you can buy an rb26 D-jetro PFC. Send it to URAS, he can make the internal mods to run the rb26 ecu on a 25, although you do lose the VCT which can be controlled seperately. BUT the question is why? I have an AFM that will hit 5v at approx 500RWKW, and wont cause a restriction at that power level, and cost almost nothing to make.

140 teeth is nowhere near lonmg enough

You certainly can drill and tap the thread. You need to drill to 10.5mm, and drill the recess at the top of the hole to 12mm(this is vital) then tap the holes to M12 x 1.5. The new thread will follow the old thread. Another easier option (especially if the motor is assembled) is to use rb25 head studs, they are the correct thread for the rb30 block and the correct length for the rb26 head, you must ensure the 2 dowels are in though. 152 teeth is correct depending on the location of the second tensioner. (low and high)

I would agree, i would be pretty disappointed with 885awhp if the power band started at 7000rpm, especially as you could make that power with a far lower boost threashold if it had more appropriately sized turbos.

I would get a better fuel pump

Speak to shanef or spoolup on the forum, both should be able to help you out with the parts. I dont think stock rb25 M11 head bolts will be up to the task, i would say you will have to retap the block to take rb26 M12 ARP head studs(and drill out the head bolt holes in the head to suit)

Sounds like you need to bolt them back together to disengage the clutch fork.

What oil pump have you got? I would seriously consider a stroker crank from shanef . Argo or pauter rods, cp or je pistons, all arp fasteners, and much bigger cams than the 260's you have, you will need at least 272's to make 600awkw. Probably would get the rb30 adapter plate/crank girdle from shanef as well, as its the best one on the market.

As it is plumbed up from the factory, there is no way to control the boost with the factory soleniod, it is only a simple bleed, runs wastegate pressure when off, and x psi more when on(2-3psi on an r33) then you have more boost form exhaust mods etc.

Pretty funky, bet there is a few $$$$$$ in there