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Adriano

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Everything posted by Adriano

  1. I would look around at fitting the GTR front suspension. It has been done before, you just need to mount the upper control arm/wish bone, and use a gtr subframe i believe.
  2. Did you put new injector seals on when they were cleaned? Only other possibility is a short in the loom which is very unlikely.
  3. I would also get a cam stud kit, to prevent the new cams snapping due to incorrect installation technique.
  4. Ati make 4 different ones for the rb26, r32 600hp, r32 1000hp, r33-4 600hp, and r33-4 1000hp. Just use the one that matches your head/acessories
  5. As far as modern turbo's go, a 30/40 is a bad combo, too small hot side compared to the compressor gives it poor throtle response, then choked the top end. What power are you looking at making? About to undertake doing up an evo V11 for a mate, and the stock turbo/s are good for 240awkw, above that and i would just be getting a big 16G or 20G
  6. NO, the pressure reg holds pressure to a preset amount above manifold pressure, regardless of the pump (as long as teh pump can keep up)
  7. Ive also heard that the r33 gtr pump and the n1 are identical apart from the relief valve, however they cost about the same. What pistons did you end up getting, rb25 or 26, that will depict what crank you have to run.
  8. It wont be either of those things. I think there is a tutorial in here on diagnostic searches. Its very easy to do at home.
  9. Im guessing AFM, do a diagnostic search on the ecu and see if there are any trouble codes
  10. Ive never heard as much wrong advice in a thread. Your mods should not effect your A/F ratio. There is something wrong. As nismiod said fuel reg, or possibly dirty afm(although that usually makes it lean) Do a diagnostic search, reset the ecu, comp test with new spark plugs, and check fuel pressure. Also make sure your IC piping doesn't have any leaks(although that will also make it lean at idle, rich on boost)
  11. Or attach them all to the one port, and datalog that
  12. As bubba said, an rb30 may not really be fir you, however you could fit an xr6 style gt35/40, and leave the stock actuator on it, running 4-5psi should give you a nice flat torque curve, whilst still allowing for future drivetrain mods. PS there isnt too much work involved in fitting a complete skyline rear end, just need to be picky with your wheel offsets.
  13. I suspect somewhere someone has asked for a bolt on turbo, and hence have the butchered stock style exhaust housing which is well known to restrict power to about what your car is making.
  14. If you are still running the stock turbo, then a 2 1/2in exhaust wont be really restrictive, as long as it is mandrell bent and has reasonable quality mufflers
  15. Exactly, there is no way the blower could make any pressure, and the air going backwards through the turbos would decrease the boost threashold by a significant amount.
  16. Funny thing is that setup wouldn't work.
  17. Just hook up the narrowband output of your AF ratio meter to the inputs of the ecu.
  18. Why dont you just relocate it?
  19. I would use a gtr crank and pistons. Dont bother with rods, dirtgarage is(was) selling a set of cleaned up stockers that are stronger than most aftermarket ones. He made over 400awkw with a set of stockers.
  20. If you fully mod the car before you bring it over, then it shouldn't need a retune when it gets here, just make sure it is tuned for fuel that is available over here
  21. You can fit upgraded springs without removing the head. Going by the rest of your build, i would be fitting step 1 springs. PS why that cam choice?
  22. If the AFR's are fine at full load, i would just check the cruise AFR's, if it isn't too lean, should be fine. Are you running standard injectors?
  23. What size bottle? I just upgraded my bottle to an FZ which is 10.2m3, cost $137 to fill, heaps cheaper than a D size(3.9m3)which cost $80.
  24. Its right hand thread, and about m16, so nowhere near 20mm across.
  25. Need to clearance the head, as the cam lobes foul the head casting.
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