Adriano

I would just chuck it in if money is scarce. Stock bottom ends are good for 300rwkw if tuned properly

The rb26 intake temp sensor is only used as an ignition trim when excess intake temps are seen to prevent detonation. If your f con pro v is map sensored(ie no MAF's) then it must have an intake temp input. Hence why rb PFC d-jetro's are only available for rb26's. It may not be hooked up, but for a map sensor ecu to work properly there must be an IAT sensor to allow for temp induced variance in air density. I hope you aren't suggesting you tune a cars ignition system with a water temp gauge?

There are mig welders on ebay for around $200. Trying to do an exhaust with a stick welder and lobster bends will end up in tears. Once you blow a hole in the pipe(which will happen frequently) It is almost impossible to fill it, and the hole will get bigger and bigger.

S2's definately have the PTU's in the coils, not the ecu.(the ecu's are interchangable)

RB26 air temp sensor and water temp sensor are exactly the same part, just one sits in water, the other in the plenum

Silverwater welding supplies are Lindegas distributors, i think its about $80 rent and $80 fill straight Argon.

Dont forget, as clutches wear, they become heavier, thats why new clutched always feel lighter than the old ones they replace

Definately plumb it back in, no question

I would gues that the only way you will be able to fix it is to tig a bit of alloy pipe in there, i cant remember, but is the standard manifold the same setup as in a steel pipe pressed into the alloy manifold?

You probably can deck the head/block to achieve the comp, but you will have to completely disassemble the motor to do so, however to do this, if you ever have head problems, you wont be able to machine the head again. Stock rb30 rods are fine for the power you are after.

I had a twin tank setup in my hiace installed. Used ex optus/telstra tanks, as they are removed when the vans are sold. worked out really cheap for the tanks and brackets, which still had 6 years left on the stamp. I would say there is a good chance they would fit under the 32 with the spare removed, and they hold 130litres, enough for 700km in the old van. If your in sydneym try talking to broady automotive about the tanks, as they have heaps of them, just dont bother trying to get them to hit the setup, there not really interested in anything hiperformance.

Attack of the noobs. How many cars have you personally dyno tuned from base tune? FYI when you are tuning a car, you basically dont look at the power output, whatever it makes, it makes. If its down 50kw at the end, its either mechanical or the tune.

IMHO its the only way i would do it on a customers car, its the only way to guarantee no metal goes into the motor.

BUt the 100 psi would be pushing another piston up the same amount at the same time.

The ebay ones aaren't 70mm, more like 42mm, and some are known to leak around the neck

You talking about him or the motor? LOL

Just dial in 1/2 deg positive camber on the rear, that will combet the squat. Rex'x may run fairly good 1/4 times, but i cant see an 11. However unless you launch them with big revs and drivetrain abuse, they really feel slow, the in gear acceleration is where you would have him, just dont expect to see him off the line. Why not try a friendly rolling start run on a deserted(private) freeway, say 40-140km/h ill bet you win.

Just make sure whoever does the belt, checks the ignition timing before disassembly, then sets it the same afterwards.

You could try leaving one or two of the returns, and extending them down past the crank.

7 psi. Mate, you really are kidding yourself if you want to get any real performance without changing the turbo.

My guess is that the P & P version will have 6 drivers, just the same as the SM4 P&P. $1500 now were talking. As far as processing speed is concerned, IMO i have never seen it be an issue. We fitted an SMC to a turbo bike, and the revs didnt upset anything?

Yes, but you need different pistons

I find it amusing that the compliancing workshop charge a little extra to remove and refit the modifications. Imagine if it has a 2.7 stroker, you could be up for $6k for nothing. It seems a farce that they remove the mods to do their own complying, then refit them and make it illegal. They really should either remove the mods and give you the bits, or get it properly engineered. My bet is they dont really swap out the parts and put them back. If you were bringing in a gtr with aftermarket dump pipes, i cant see them dropping the turbos off, fitting the stock dumps, then turning around and doing the reverse.

Just use the non neo throttle body, otherwise i dont think you will be able to fit the intercooler piping . Just means you will lose the Traction control.

You will need a flex pipe on the wastegate pipe if you are going to plumb it back in