Adriano

I have tuned a couple of djetro's on various cars(rb26 included) and actually found it to be no more difficult than the normal one. Apexi must have the inbuilt software pretty good.

The throttles have a coating from the factory, and if you clean them it comes off causing high idle problems.

YOu drill into runner three and four into the section betweem the head and the throttles. I used 1/8 bsp fittings which require a 8.8mm drill bit, and a tap. To do it properly is a full days job, removing the plenum & throttles etc. Just make sure you get some gaskets, and dont clean the throttles.

Have you looked into nistune?

R32 GTR on top gear thats driven by the hot chick has a replica stock spoiler in carbon fibre, although it could have just been covered

IMO a GT3071 with a .63 ex housing will see very close to 300rwkw, with the best response you can hope for.

Thats unusual advice. What have you turned the boost up to? What other mods are you running?

If its only a bit, do you see it in the headlights of the car behind? If its grey/black its fuel, and normal.

Is the wastegate pipe on the manifold smaller than the same manifold with a 50 mm gate (do you know the diameter?)

IS it a built motor with headwork and cams? My guess at this stage, is: A .86 ex housing is a little small for an rb30det, and if it has cams etc, that would make it worse A 44mm gate is a little on the small side if you are trying to run low boost. Ivve seen this same problem on Todd Wilkes 1400hp Gicottolo, boost was going off the dial with the wastegate valves installed backwards it had twin gt35r .86's(if i remember correctly) twin 50mm wastegates on a built 5.8. The night between qualifying and comp at summernats we pulled the turbos off and machined the ex housings 1.5mm(and wired in an autronic) Fixed the boost control.

Im assuming you are using an smc with only one PWM output, you could fit a idle control solenoid that isnt Pulse width modulated, or a wax pellet idle up bypass.

How does the oil pump know if you are accelereting? Oil pressure will increase with revs, and be higher when the engine is cold. It is not uncommon for pressure to go to the top of the gauge when cold if the revs are up a bit, although skyline gauges are notorious for being faulty/inaccurate

It helps if you raise the back of the car as high as you can on some axle stands

A bottom end weighs 114kg not including the sump, so i would be guessing 160-180kg. Where do you need to post it to/from

If by steering rack ends you mean rear tierods, they are $120 from nissan or just jap have them

I would bypass the boost controller, run one boost signal to the bottom of the wastegate, leave the other one disconnected

Now that doesn't sound good, i would do a compression test. Also i think the original problem is your cas(cam angle sensor)

I would just flog it till it dies, while you are waiting, build an rb30det, then you can chuck it in at your leisure

I would measure the crown thickness, and be very tempted to machine some of the crown off, its a cheap job on a lathe, and will get you away from the horrid squish you are going to encounter with a "decompression plate". PS you can run 2 gaskets.

MMM burger anyone?

Im pretty sure they run an mls gasket under the spacer, although i feel this sounds a bit dodgey.

Or you can drop them out the bottom.

Does the tacho need le drop when it happens, if so, then your cas is shot, otherwise sounds like igniter. I would do a diagnostic check of the ecu, see if it has any trouble codes.

If you have to put the head straigt on a stock bottom end, you are far better using an RB30e bottom end, as the c.r. doesnt end up so bad

By the time you remove the manifold to get it repaired, i would just fit a second hand one that isnt corroded