Adriano

Hi mate, just confirming that what you are selling isnt actually "rocker" covers, just the coil and camwheel cover. PM me if you have rocker/cam covers as im after a set.

Just wondering if you have pics, as i have a modified sump, and wish to see if this will suit.

Just wondering michael, whether you believe the EGT's are soley effected by the A/F ratio. I would be very interested, as i thought there would be other factors?

Under boost, any of the leaks will be blowing out, unless the leak is between the turbos and AFM's

Yes it is normal, its just that the pssssst isnt loud enough to get all the schoolgirls wet in a 1km radius

Im surprised you are having troubles, as you are using the standard igniter, thats usually where the trouble occurs. I would get someone to put it on one of the old school scopes, and check your primary and secondary voltages/waveforms.

Trader rating?

Basically no, without measuring, i would guess you would have to deck the head about 2-3mm.

Do you have any in brown?

Someone correct me here, but i was under the impression that the supra 2jz, had a faster 1/4 time than an r33 gtr, and was renowned for its excellent neutral handling despite its curb weight(hmmm do i see a similarity to the r35)

AFAIK the plasma coating in the bores is designed to harden the surface and reduce wear, so i doubt they will be requiring resprays at 100000, when cast iron bores regularly last 300,000

Depends on your seat pressure, boost and expected redline

For the cost of tuning the engine with 6 o2 sensors, you could easily fit a greddy plenum. Also in regards to tuning to the "worst" cylinder theory, there is no way to know if one cylinder is running vastly leaner than the rest with a single o2 sensor in the dump pipe, it reads an average of all the cylinders

Have a look at cubes rb30 setup, he'w running at gt30r. With a .86 ex housing, you will have boost practically at idle, and 300rwkw, with a 4000 rpm torque band, just the thing for hurling a heavy skyline down the road

By shimming the spring, you fit a shim/washer at the bottom of the valve spring between it and the head. It increases seat pressure to reduce valve float/bounce, whilst maintaining the same cam/valve tip clearance. You just need to be careful to ensure that you dont go to thick which causes spring bind/fatigue. It is used very commonly in the cylinder head repair industry, just need to be careful with the measurements.

Car will need to be tuned, and will not require solid lifters, cams are probably bigger than i would recommend for your setup though.

Changing the plug gap wont make any difference to the timing, and wasted spark will still run the same timing. Its in the conversion to wasted spark where you have got the problem, what ignition module/igniter are you running? Souds like you have it triggering off the leading edge of the pulse instead of the trailing.

Starions definately stall with atmo BOV's

Check that it has an r33 crank, or crank collar

i would also disassemble the bov and clean/check the movement, seen heaps of sticky ones in the past.(or even better recirculate it)

Undo the three bolts that hold the cas on, and turn it till the timing is right, then see how it runs. I would put a scope on the ignition circuit and check the dwell/ coil saturation.

If it was my car, i would be getting a remap of the stock ecu. There is much debate over using aftermarket ECU's with auto boxes in skylines, i wouldnt be taking the risk unless i was shown that the haltech has the software to retard the ignition timing on gearchange. The stock ecu has two fuel maps for low and high octane fuel,two ignition maps, closed loop, vct control, idle control and knock control.All these functions have been well developed by the factory. The only other option i would be considering is a plug in Autronic sm4, but im not sure they do it for the r34. PS i doubt the stock ECU has s#$t itself, i just too unlikely unless there is something else we dont know about

^^^^^Yep, exactly what he said

There was a thread on this yesterday, with all the imformation you need

here are some pics on page 1, basically you buy the adapter/pickup from pro-engines for $1000, there is no easier way to do it. As far as im know the rb25 awd sump is the same as the rb26 one, so no you can tlower the motor without lowering the crossmember.