Adriano

Why does everyone think the rta would have an issue with it, it can only make the car quieter, and should improve emmissions when its shut, as it would be similar to EGR.

Wonder what is written under the sticker on the calipers

In reality, a perfect tune on high boost should have a perfect low boost tune in it, but usually doesn't, there is no difference between part throttle high boost, and lower boost(same load cells) I always start with lowest boost, even no boost power runs and datalog it, then slowly increase the boost, tuning each one as i go. Gives optimum power at all boost/load levels

Thanks, im not sure if it is the same stuff though. My mate tells me this stuff is used to allow a computer fan to draw through it, whilst still having the electrical enclosure shielded from electrical interference. Give it a shot though

Good tune will be fine for both low and high boost

Either will run the car with the idle motor removed, just dont expect idle control

Yep, s15 sr20 480cc side feeds, or any of the 550cc ones are fine for up to 300rwkw(or 350 for the 550's) Upgrade the pump and keep the stock reg. What management are you guys running.

No. There are only a few things that will cause that fuel economy. AFM's, coils causing missfire, coolant temp sensor, fuel leak, cam timing, o2 sensors(although i wouldnt expect it to be that bad) Jap ECU rom, blocked cat could cause it, but it wouldnt make any power. or possibly brakes dragging

From what i have seen they all come form the same place, the only differences i have seen is at one stage, some were only oil cooled Personally, they all seem to have poor flow through the wastegate, which results in poor boost control, however this can be remedied with a die grinder. Also they seem laggy and unresponsive for the power that they produce compared to more expensive turbos. At the end of the day you get what you pay for. I fitted a KKR 280 to a lancer, and had to pull the turbo off 4 times on the dyno to get it to work properly, and one of those times had to return it to the manufacturer due to an assembly fault.

I use 1%(5) and 2.5%(6)

If you run the appropriate fuel all the time, then there may(should) be power to be gained by advancing. However if it pings(for one of many reasons, which you may not hear), then the ecu will go into its low octane map, richening the mixtures and retarding the timing. There is no engine light, and it will stay in this mode until the ecu is reset i believe, there is "power loss and worse fuel economy" especially if you then retard the timing to the original cas position, then you have even more retarded timing and richer mixtures.

You could always somhow attach it the the throttle, so when you give it full throttle, it automatically opens. If you want a cheaper alternative, or a bigger one, go to a truck wrecker and buy an exhaust brake flapper(actually, these are usually vacuum operated, so you may be able to hook it up to manifold vacuum, give it boost and it will open)

To bypass the resistor box, you simply connect all the pins together, so the injectors get 13.8v. Pretty sure plugs are different too. What are you planning on doing about the VCT?

Yeah. interesting about the housing, ive tuned 1 rb26 with a .63 GT35R, everyone said it would choke, but it didn't. Made 316rwkw at 16psi, and 330ish at 19psi, but left it at 16 as motor was stock

Do you have any pics of the chip?

I bought an rb26 piston from nissan for $86

Its not so much the roundness, its the taper, as 99% bore wear occurs in the top 15mm. Anyone who has rehoned a second hand bore can tell you that its obvioius as the hone does the whole bore except the top 15mm. IMO if you are having to buy another block, then machine it out, its really not a lot of extra $$$, in the unlikely event that in the future you need to bore it out again twice, then buy another block then.

I think stock pistons are about $400

Yep, i agree, i would never trust 15 year old bores to be as new, also you need to adjust the size to suit piston/bore clearance.

There has been heaps, try looking at nistune, $420 with real time tuning, no need for messy chips, burners and emulators

Dont forget you can run an external pump without going dry sump.

Sell it all, and put some goodies on the NEO

Curious, do you have any pics of the stroker crank, im interested in comparing it to a mates HKS crank

Are they rising rate, or do they simply rise with boost, as all regs raise the fuel pressure with boost?