Jump to content
SAU Community

Adriano

Members
  • Posts

    3,894
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Adriano

  1. How much power/revs are you looking at running. Aftermarket retainers are usually lighter, to improve valve control at big revs, but i doubt with an rb30 you will need them.I would be going solid lifter setup well before getting aftermarket retainers.
  2. dude, did you SMS that question?Seriously is the turbo ball bearing, if the NEO turbo didnt have problems, and you have used teh same banjo bolts in the oil lines, then more than likely the turbo is shagged.
  3. How much power are you looking at making. IMO the best setup for a street car is the stock manifold, as many have found, they only become restrictive above 320rwkw, which is about the most power you would practically want in a 2wd street car.
  4. Sounds like ignition module
  5. No, but you have to lower a 25/26 to fit them, and the rb30 is 38mm taller
  6. If the turbos are blown, i would do a compression test before you do anything. Its fairly common when gtr turbos blow to take the motor with them.
  7. There is no way the stock bonnet will close
  8. Not meaning to be rude in my offer, but ill offer $300 + post, as you can get new N1 pumps for $400
  9. Remapped ecu will be fine to run 550cc, although they arent necessary for the highflow, have you considered 440cc gtr injectors, they are fine for up to 280rwkw and a bit more.
  10. Blocks are usually about $100-150 if you pull them out of the car, or $250 if the wrecker does.
  11. Maybe if you worded the question a bit better it might make more sense, however looking at the dyno thread at the top of the screen, is a great way to learn what you need to make the power you are after. PS pauls answer was the exact correct answer to the question you asked
  12. I was under the impression with rb's, the trend was to go bigger in the exhaust, as that is the more restrictive side. How much more power are you looking at making, as at the level you are running, the cams aren't really a restriction. I certainly wouldnt go bigger than 256in/264ex combo for your usage, i probably wouldnt even go that big. Poncams seem to be a great mild setup whic suit 300-350rwkw
  13. Dont listen to them, put it in, use the rb26 exhaust cam and CAS, either leave the stock inlet cam, and use a jaycar device to switch the VCT, or fit an rb26 inlet cam with rb26 camwheel, then you loose the vct, either way not too hard. everything else should be fairly simple, you may wish to use an r33 throttle body to get rid of the big TCS throttle body. Give her 12psi with a good remap, and you should see over 200rwkw
  14. R32's work far better with a SAFC than an R33, as 32's dont have anywhere near the inbuilt safety features of a 33 ecu.
  15. Unfortunately as you are probably aware, the fuel/ignition relationship doesn't work very well, with a fuel bender and is defiantely the limiting factor in the power made. I wouldnt push the setup too hard, and consider the SAFC a bandaid which really needs to be fixed to get the most out of the supporting mods. Maybe have a look at the Greddy emanage Ultimate as another option, as its not as $$$$ as PFC's are getting
  16. Paul, i think this is probably about the only thing i disagree with you on. Say your MAF car is tuned for your 18psi on a 30 deg day, with the AFM maxing at 5000 rpm, if on a cold night(say 10 deg), you have a little overboost say to 20psi, there is no way the ecu can know there is additional airflow, hence leaning out, and no reduction in timing. You would be surprised how much difference intake charge temp makes to A/F ratio's if there is no compensation, which the maxed MAF situation is, I recently tuned a subaru EA82t, without intercooler, then with intercooler, it was a map sensor ecu without the air temp sensor. It wasnt running lots of boost, so the difference in intake temps would not be enormous, but definately there. Originally tuned for 12:1 A/F ratios, when it came back the Intercooler had increased the density of the air to the point where the full load A/F ratios headed towards 14.5:1 My other concern with running a tuned maxed AFM setup is if it is tuned fro 18 psi, what happens at 16 psi. Assuming the AFM is still maxing, it will still be running the same load point as 18 psi, but with less airflow, so it will run rich as buggery. All this is good and well for most people, as if the AFM maxes at 5000 rpm, there really isnt too much of a problem, as 99% driving will not show the problem, but something which maxes it at 3500rpm(which is entirely possible with an rb30) could easily spell disaster and poor driving characteristics IMO
  17. I would either go Autronic P&P (about $2700), or rb25 or rb26 PFC with appropriate AFM(s), have a look in the fabrication section for my custom AFM. Other option is RB26 PFC Djetro. I certainly wouldnt consider any other option, especially the two you have mentioned.
  18. Paul you have said this many times, and i dont see your point, if the boost increases with a map sensor, so does the load, with a maf, the load wont increase if its already maxed, i see this as worlds apart in tearms of tunability, and tuning past the limits of the AFM also isnt a satisfactory solution, as any slight variance in load from the tuning load, whilst still holding 5v will give completely uncontrolled or unpredictable AFR's. The only similarity i could see is if you maxed out the MAP sensor, which is never really a concern, as 5 bar map sensors are easily obtained.
  19. Gee the mechanic is going to regret giving you that quote
  20. Adriano

    Custom Afm

    Mate in the navy, although its not big enough, ill have to source some myself, otherwise ill fit stainless mesh like the stock stuff(if i can find that)
  21. Im pretty sure the pistons came with specs, not sure though, i would be looking at a piston/bore clearance of around 2.5-3 thou
  22. Adriano

    Custom Afm

    $8 from jaycar, was a bitch to tig though, full of impurities, they have heaps of different sizes
  23. Comp test should always be done hot, either inconsistency in the gauge which is very common, or the head may have had a skim at some stage.
×
×
  • Create New...