Adriano

Just tee it off the oil pressure sender, there is a big thread on this in naturally aspirated performance

INteresdting that you have removed the bottom half of the valve guides, i thought it was a common problem for rb's to crack the valve guides, and shorteneing them would only make it worse??

Standard r32 GTR internals, should hit 5v at a touch over 450rwkw. Im hoping i can pass a drive cycle emmisions test, but the cams will be the killer there.

Hi, as im running a single lowmount turbo on my R32 GTR, and large cams, i wish to keep the afm for better drivability/fuel economy. However instead of running twin Z32's or nismo's, ive opted for what i consider to be a neater and far cheaper alternative. I sold my original AFM's for $120, and picked up a pair off ebay, with one damaged for $20. Im going to have both plugs the AFM which will be bridged interenally so the loom doesnt need to be modified. Internal diameter is 110mm, which will need to reduce in the pipework to 4"external diameter to match the turbo and air filter. To prevent turbulance, ill install the alloy honeycomb before and after the sensor when i do the rest of the pipework.[attach ent=150178:IMG_1639.JPG]

ARP shouls have the formula on their website SR20 + ARP = helicoil

You could always tap it and put a bsp plug in it

I think its Joe's BBQ and heating, its on george street,between Jaycar and the bowling alley.

25's and 26's have different studs, and as the thread pitch is different from one end to the other, i would suspect the torque to be similar to the factory bolts. Ive got a set of rb30 ones. What torque spec were you after, 25 or 26?

I would just sell it and buy a gtr at the prices you can get them for now.

Yeah, good luck with the $300 adapter, i made one myself, and its not the cutting or the steel plate that is the expense, its the fasteners, and the 50 odd holes that have to be within about .25mm for it to fit properly. Even if you charge out your time at $20p.h. you are better off buying the kit.

DUDE, your PFC is for a completely different car, different prices

Yeah, but remember that its not only the EBC that controls the boost curve, there are many other factors that can cause boost control problems.

Ive got a spare one for $40 if your interested

Or just weld on an M10 x 1.0 nut, than screw in a 1/8 bsp fitting, the threads are soo close it wont cause any dramas

Blackwoods dont sell the straight pipe!! I get mine from a BBQ & Heating place in hornsby, cheap as.

As i said, its $500 over a remap, which also requires hardware, software, installation and tuning

AFAIK all the microtechs have an auxillary output, why not set that up to the vct. I had an old digi, and even that had am rpm aux output.

No such thing

Definately big end, and the oil pump is probably stuffed too. PS rb26's dont have hydraulic lifters, i would go to a different mechanic who knows rb's

sorry guys, but why would they call it a GTR?

A rolling start certainly doesnt take traction out of the equation, dont you think if you put your foot down in a 300rwkw car, it will wheelspin at 80km/h, all the traction control does is reduce the power, hence the AWD wins.

If they are charging $500 more for nistune over a remap, they are bending you over, its as much work as a remap, with far easier dyno time

Thats what i was wondering. Ive never had any luck with calling microtech, when they finally answer the phone, they tell you to bring it in for reprogramming.

Expecting way too much, if you tune it on 98 RON, and put 91 RON in it, it will knock. If you have a 91 RON tune, then no point running 98 RON, there can be 6 degrees of full load ignition timing between the two tunes.

660cc injectors will be great for your setup, they are good for up to about 380rwkw