Adriano

Is this thing registered

Exhaust yes, rb25 intake wont fit rb26

Dirtgarage is saying to use the original feed line from one 044, and the original return line as a feed for the other 044 to the other end of the fuel rail, then a 5/8 braided(i assume this is O.D.) as a return

For up to 350rwkw, this is the easiest, most legal and most cost effective way to do it, just without the bling!

22-26psi, 400rwkw is really staring to lean on a gt35r, you would need the 1.06ex housing which would make it quite laggy

If your only loading it up on the dyno, it will be fine, as dyno pulls are done in 4th which is 1:1 where there is minimal load on the box. Just try to minimise the shock loading and make sure you cleanly engage the gears on the street(especially 3rd)

Chuch another gauge on it, the Nissan senders are renown for failing. A common cause id the bolts holding the two halves of the oil pump together coming loose

Stock rods, no way reliable, clutch will be marginal at best, 3rd will blow if your drifting and rough with it. Twin 044 pumps, Greddy do a y-pipe for the AFM's. Maybe you should reconsider your power level, as your looking at 20k to make the power you want on top of what you have already spent.

In all seriousness you cant run the standard rb20 turbo with an rb30.

Can certainly be done, but it doesn't end up cheap, by the time the valve seats are removed, welding, surface grind, die grind, machine for new valve seats, and fit new valve seats, the cost of the repair can be high.

Have you done a diagnostic check, could be igniter

Sounds like a good idea. As your not running the VCT, you could either, buy two exhaust cams, or make an adjustable camwheel out of the VCT camwheel(by elongating the bolt holes that secure the outer to the inner) I would try modifying and playing with the cam timing first, maybe just a cam on the intake, dialled in on the dyno would be all thats necessary

Another thing i could suggest is whilst doing the timing belt(and tensioners) is pull the oil pump off and loctite the bolts that hold the two halves together. I would do as you suggest and leave the boost down. When you want to turn it up, get some steel wheel turbos and a remap

Ive tuned and fitted heaps of PFC's, and lots of them second hand, without problems. See Dr.Drift for a remap, but it wont be $3-400, although the end result is pretty much as good as the PFC(in many ways better)

I sold mine for $1100 without rubber, so yours are a great deal, maybe try selling them on a 300zx forum, they really suit... My old car

I would be getting it to a workshop before you blow it up, paralleling up the AFM in itself needs to be tuned to suit, one lean power run and its end game

Its fine

26's dont have hydraulic lifters. Im pretty sure you wont fit one 2000hp turbo in an r32 gtr engine bay, let alone 2. I know this may sound silly, but have you considered the fact that an rb30 with 2 turbos that size more than likely wont make 800hp, more like 300hp

Why would you have 4000hp worth of turbo to make 800 hp?

Just use your rb25 loom, and change the injector plugs. Fit the rb25 water temp sensor, thats it(unless you need the resistor pack)

There are certainly more imperial stuff made than metric, I had a machine shop do mine with a mill, and the results are bloody ordinary. Unfortunately the size ifference between the two threads isnt a great deal, which can easily result in the thread not cutting cleanly. I just think for the ordinary person, the added expense, and the risk of damaged threads make it unnecessary when rb25 ARP studs do the job fine.

They only use shorter rods because they have to to fit it all in a stock block. Stock GTR rod/stroke ratio is below optimum, as the rod is on a larger angle to the cylinder, especially when it is a right angle to the crank(where it produces max torque)this results in higher frictional losses. It does have the side effect of reducing detonation, but increases piston accelleration around TDC and BDC

I think all this talk about a 1/2 in conversion is a bit of a concern. Firstly is is to M12, not 1/2 in. Secondly, you have to have a switched on engineer do the job on a mill, as its easy to stuff up. A lot of builders dont worry, as the ARP RB25 head studs are able to withstand a lot of cylinder pressure. I upgraded mine to rb26 arp head studs(M12 x 1.75), and am now regretting it. In hindsight, i think its really only necessary once you are looking at getting close to 1000hp

about 25kg