Adriano

Its a bit hard from the angle of the pics.

Raising the fuel pressure will make the pump flow less, i would fit the Fuel Pressure Gauge, and see whats going on. PS increasing the fuel pressure will change the tune.

Have you considered a remap? You dont want to hack the loom for a set of resisters for teh gtr injrctors, but will fit a piggyback or microtech, i dont understand.

Unless you upgrade the turbo along with your list, you wont make much over 280rwhp, and thats a bit dangerous. IMO dont bother leaning on the stock turbo, get the one for your chosen power level, and then wind it up.

Yes, if it is out, then the belt will have to come off to fix it, i would look at the belt anyway, as if it hasnt been changed, then its probabaly overdue.

Only one will fit your r34

There is a thread in forced induction about fitting GTR cams to an rb20, i would suggest anyone interested in buying these for an rb20 read it first, the conclusion was that a solid lifter conversion was also required to make them work.

Are they the modified chev 6" version, or rb30 specific, ie what big end bearing do they run, big ends included?

Will it fit an r32 gtr?

Im 99% sure they cant be redrilled to fit a nissan stud pattern

being that they are all plug in, the wiring diagram is the same as the vehicle they are intended for, ie a gtr PFC has the same wiring diagram as a gtr

Definately cant hook it up to another pin on the igniter. If you have a scope, hook that up to the wire in question, it should be a switched earth, ie the igniter pulls the voltage to ground. Have you tried swapping the igniter for another one?

Does the engine have an igniter at the back of the coil cover? Either that or it could be a dead injector, but youll need to chech for spark again.

Yes, remove the cas, and timing cover, turn the crank pulley clockwise until it reaches TDC. Now check that the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys line up with the marks on the backing cover, if they are around the other side, turn the crank pulley 360 degrees, if the marks dont line up within about 2mm, the cam timing is out. Im with mafia on the FPR. There is only one reason to use one, and thats to extend the scope of an injector, and on a turbo car a proper rising rate one is even better, as it doesn't require the base pressure to be raised. However FULL engine management should be used before you get to this stage, as a FPR will change the mixtures at all the load points, not just at full throttle.

Im assuming from the pics that it is wire up, not the plug and play version. Do you know if it has the knock control feature?

Obviously tou dont know what you are talking about, jap spec r31's have macpherson struts up front and semi trailing IRS rear, which is dreadful, camber change city. I dont understand why Nissan didnt fit 260z style rear suspension which offers far more traction

agreed, comp testers seem to vary a lot from one to the other, they are really only good as a comparison tool.

Mate that is sacralidge

Curious, how did it end up 1 1/2 teeth, where did the 1/2 come from

The lower unsprung weight of the 35 would make it far superior in traction, for braking, for accelerating and for cornering Gary, do you think the r35 will have lower unsprung weight, or just a lower relative weight?

It will bolt on, but you should get the rb26 backing plate, as the neo one doesn't fit the cambelt cover properly.

Thats an old vane dyno, they notoriously read low, however they also lack the features to accurately tune a late model car, i would take it elsewhere, its entirely possible it was at the limit of the dyno retarder.

Why dont you try zeroing the settings on the NEO and then check the timing

What camgears are your cams designed to bolt to, the VCT cam has a different camgear mounting than the exhaust gear. Either a 4 bolt mounting or a single centre bolt. If its a 4 bolt style, then you wont be able to fit the VCT unit on the front of the cam, so adjustables would be the logical thing to fit, if its a single centre bolt style, then adjustable camgears wont fit, and youll have to use the standard VCT gear, to disable it you simply dont hook up the wiring to the solenoid. If its an r33 head, then you still need to hook up an external oil feed to the vct soleniod, as it also feeds a cam journal, if you dont, the cam will sieze and possibly break.

Its not ideal, but i doubt the turbo has sustained any real damage