rb20inside

first post edited motor is sold. sold for 1200 with most parts attached.

have pedals and tailshaft, no lines have sent you a pm dont know about the mount

bump

no more clutch/flywheel gearbox now gone also crossmember/mounts and LOTS of minor bits now for sale individually cheers lads

let me know when you need one again. i have a spare one

do you have a power fc. found that if i didn't do the idle for 30mins thing properly, the car didnt idle smoothly just a thought

found at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=150538

bov is atmo and needs an adapter. however, i also have a short piece of pipe with the appropriate flange on it though, which i can include. motor gone, rest of the parts still available

as mentioned, tapping a hole in the comp cover works well. you can also weld a nipple into the intercooler piping at a convenient location. either options works fine depending on what tools/equipment you have. the length of the vacuum line does have an effect, how much... depends. the shorter the length the better but its not like going from the 150mm of the rb20 line to 600mm in your custom location will be overly noticeable. i have heard rumours that some rb25 turbos require different fittings to allow the water lines to fit up to a rb20 but i have never come across any problems when fitting three different rb25 turbos to three different rb20s and two vg30 turbos to a rb25 and a rb20.

PMs sent and it's not sold til it's out of the shed

the easiest way is to run a vacuum line straight from a boost source (from memory factory rb25 has a nipple on the intercooler piping near the turbo) to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. Done. Alternatively if you want to hook up the rb25 factory high/low boost solenoid system, it is a little more complex and harder to explain in writing.

In my experience I've had trouble getting the standard rb25 5psi actuator to hold any decent amount of boost. Such a soft spring rate has trouble holding the wastegate closed under higher pressures. It may not be a problem at such mild boost levels but its worth a try, and is certainly a cheaper option to a 3in turbo back exhaust (although you should get one of these also). A budget alternative is to use the factory actuator from the rb20 which easily bolts straight up.

still for sale. couple of interested parties. got a possible buyer for the motor, anyone need a gearbox???

for sale: 93 rb20det motor package approx 75,000kms includes: complete motor: sold gearbox: sold flywheel: sold HD 5puck clutch: sold inlet manifold and plenum: sold injectors: sold throttle body 6x new coil packs: sold exhaust manifold and turbo and sheild: sold 3in dump/front pipe: $100 2.5in piping for front mount: sold radiator: $100 power steering pump alternator air con compressor starter motor r32 crossmember and engine mounts gearbox mount tailshaft lume think thats all of it. it is pretty much a complete front cut minus the car chassis part prefer to sell it all together but might consider seperating the gearbox from the complete motor from the mounts etc providing i get the right price for all items #edit# sold the major parts so reasonable offers accepted on the remaining items please reply to pm as i don't check the thread much (but give it a bump anyway) located near (west of) brisbane (ipswich for the locals) also for sale::: *apexi twin chamber bov. $150 *z32 hubs/spindles. $100 *s2 rb25 turbo. guess you could say its blown. has a bit of shaft play and is a bit noisy/squeals. great for rebuild/hiflow. sold *s14a complete rear cradle (includes cradle, lsd diff, halfshafts, all control arms etc, hubs/5stud spindles, swaybar, rotors, calipers, handbrake cables, etc. $500 *absolutely heaps of s13/180sx parts (just ask for what you want cos i've probably got it)

probably put the rb20 wheel on rb25 pump (if you can get it to work)because the number of ribs on the balancer pulley will match the rb20 pump wheel

you'll probably need an adapter plate to go from the four bolts of the afm to the circular pod

here I go on the 20 questions to the best of my knowledge: * actuator came with brand new garrett turbo and I have no use for it * turbo was on an rb20det. it was insane fun to drive, as many others who have experienced will verify. read the sticky thread. * it will bolt up to the rb20/25 but as stated it will require the oil and water lines to make it work. i have the oil feed and return lines but they are being used on my car and not included in this. I had water lines made up at pirtek to suit the application. * i'll try to borrow a camera and take some pictures and attempt to load them up but i'm not a real computer guru so i'll enlist the assistance of my more technologically minded mates (aka. computer geeks) off the topic but, if anyone knows of any/could keep an eye out for any s14/15 front hubs as stated in my sig. cheers, CR

I'm no turbo guru so i don't know what is involved in rebuilding. I havn't had any quotes done There is a slight change in gradient on the very tip of the turbine wheel blades and seeing as it was the rear bearing that let go I'd say maybe the rear wheel has touched? actuator is a brand new garrett adjustable one. will definitely suit garret or hks turbos. dont know about vg30... and havn't got one to check it with

how long is a bit of string? depends on the power you're after and your desired end result

probably common knowledge but when you undo the bolts from the turbo (particularly the smaller ones subject to heat) instead of just pulling on the spanner to undo the bolts, give them a quick hard jerk (hitting it with you palm has the same effect). This will aid in 'cracking' the 'seal' on the bolt instead of just screwing/shearing the head off by slowly pulling on the spanner.

i'd say with that turbo you'll need injectors and fuel pump to be able to run any real amount of boost. i also assume you have a hiflowing exhaust system? therefore you will need some form of aftermarket management and a tune. whether it is as crude as a SAFC through to a remap or a full aftermarket system (depending on your budget). you say you are a drifter. more power helps but a clutch, agood lsd and suspension setup (as extreme as you want to go) will make it easier to drift and give you greater control obviously it all depends on your budget. just keep your eye out on here for bargains on the parts you need

i have bolted up turbos from a rb25det, rb25det NEO and vg30det to various rb20s using the standard rb20 water lines and bolts.

pretty sure they're not ball bearing either in any case, they're too small.

edit first post. offers at 200 but no money down so snap it up fellas

i dont have a clue what it is worth. is there any precedent? have any similar items been sold? i could say $1000 but that's stupidly high so what's the point. throw me an offer and the worse i can say is no. i'll try borrow a camera and take some photos but i'm sure everyone has seen a turbo before.