rb20inside

hey guys, as the topic states I have a HKS GT2530-63T (446179-21) which has had the rear bearing let go. it is rebuildable for someone who can be bothered/has the money. *dont know what its worth so shoot us an offer to pm and we can go from there. EDIT: had a few offers at 200, which sounds fairly reasonable, but no one commiting. so put the money down and you'll snap it up. I also have the compressor cover to suit. it is the slip on inlet/outlet stlye as opposed to the flanged option. *dont know a price on this either so again just shoot me an offer. a BRAND NEW t28 turbine housing to suit is also available (sold pending payment) I also have an adjustable wastegate actuator and braket for sale from a brand new garrett turbo will suit garrett/hks internally gated turbos. absolutely brand new garrett item, never used. sold cheers lads.

i have a rb25det style solenoid that i used with it. can sell that too for extra. pm me with an email address and i'll try take some photos if you really want some, but its nothing special to look at. i'm sure you've all seen one before.

as the topic states. i have a jaycar indepependant electronic boost controller for sale assembled and working well. can include hand controller. located near brisbane. reply to pm (but bump it as well)

dont think i need control arms. not yet anyway. hoping to make it work with just changing ball joints. thanks anyway. has anyone seen any lately in an import wreckers round brisbane??

hey guys, as the topic states i'm after some front hubs from a s14 or s15 200sx. i know this isnt NS.com (thank god) but if anyone is like me and have hundreds of parts from other imports lying dormant in their shed i might be lucky. would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out. cheers

wouldnt worry bout taking apart plenum. have changed injectors in a few rb20s and only took off throttle body. dont really need to drain coolant. just unbolt the tb and unclip lume parts. pull off the coolant lines and just let them drain till it stops (alot less than draining whole lot) just make sure no coolant goes in the holes while the injestors are out pretty easy job mate, just fiddly (esp. clips) should take bout an hour to change injectors. maybe a little longer for your first time

might be a bit difficult to weld into the standard cast manifold. dunno, probably can be done with alot of the heat concentrated into the manifold. maybe you could find someone who has done/will do it. however, the way i've seen it done is to buy/make a piece that goes between the manifold "outlet" flange and the turbine housing "inlet" flange. this piece is essentially a box with flanges to suit the manifold and turbo then have a pipe coming of it (downwards if you want) with a flange to suit the external gate.

should be fine mate at around that boost level. nice medium between the stock one and the common 600x300x75 styles. will provide better cooling than standard while still providing nice response being of a "reasonable" size. some guys use r34 gtt sidemount intercoolers on r32/33 for a mild upgrade so this should go one step better. anyhow, its gotta be better than the stock item!! you'll fing the real difference wont be giving you anymore outright power (only ability to do so) but it will make it more enjoying to drive in the summer months as it will suffer less from heat soak.

your mates lancer being fwd will have thermo fan/s. he probably has a relay hooked up to his ignition and a thermo switch that supplies it with power once the engine (coolant) reaches a certain temperature. would definitely change your fan asap as my mate's (rb25) went through his radiator. wasn't fun. there is an ongoing debate as to whether a clutch/engine fan is better/worse than a thermo/electric fan setup. i personally use two 12in thermo fans run through a relay using the stock radiator temp sensor.

i dunno man, i'm no expert and i'm just throwing it out there. but in a mate's ca18 its was missing when hot and would not idle. it would be ok till it warmed up then it would stall and miss when it reved, etc we put on bosch remote coil packs/plugs, changed the idle control valve, and a couple of other things. in the end we changed the stock temp sensor as apparently it affects the timing. fixed it striaght up. dont know if it works the same on series2 but guess you could try it.

also from 'the swich'... woodend actually know a few lads with imports but always up to meeting other enthusiasts. seen quite a few random skylines and cefiros around just havn't met many yet. my car is also off the road atm but who wants to organise something to meet up, even if it is in our secondary car?

as stated i purchased an afm and never recieved the plug it was supposed to include. can anyone help me out. i have a couple of other plugs i am willing to swap/bargain with (one looks like z32)

as stated i need a plug for a series2 rb25det. i purchased an afm and was supposed to include the plug. but it didnt arrive. i asked him what was goin on and he sent me the wrong one. i have two others i am willing to swap/sell/bargain (one looks like z32) so in short, can anyone please help me out??

still need one. can anyone help out. know where i can get one

commonwhore boyracer hater from way back... you get lots of sympathy from me.

how much boost hasnt really got anything to with it. i've fried turbos on standard boost. but as a general rule/experience under 12-14psi is ok for a while. its not like you run 14 and its sweet then 15 and it carks it. there is no point running more than this anyway with a standard turbo and especially with no fmic. anymore than 1bar is really out of the stock turbo efficiency range and yer as stated, just pushes hot air with not much gain. problem shouldn't be the ebc. so wind back the boost and/or strap on a rb25 turbo and get a front mount! and yer, cant beat a bleed valve for simplicity and value! most fun you'll have with the lads in your new beast at night on a quiet road...

yer dude, as stated just carve off the little tab with a stanley or something. did that with mine and worked a treat, clips hold it fine. could go buy plugs i suppose but yer, don't need to.

yer, nah dude. way too big for 2 litre. consider that for a rb25/30

although not entirely the same i installed gtr replacement 550cc injectors in my rb20det. adjusted them on the powerfc and it ran ok but fuelly. idle tracked around a bit but not bad really for a 50% adjustment. a dyno tune fixed it nice. if you can drive it to a tuner do that. i know where you're coming from on the labour thing

so is it definitely nandos now??? i'll let some of the boys know and we'll be there

Bump. still for sale. not fully desperate to sell but negotiable

yep same thing here. prime the line till "wizzing" stops then crank the engine. starts every time

put a z32 afm on my rb20det. worked ok. wont make any more power but allows the ability to make more. keep in mind you will need aftermarket management to run it

yer on a rb20 in a 180sx. I thought it was a pretty good match. yer it was definitely lagier than the standard but not too bad really. anyway boost is only a clutch kick away. seemed to get up and boogy alright. never dynoed it but kept up alright with mates 180sx with rb25det, vg30det, 12psi, 3in exhaust. (which is for sale btw) rso84: you have pm

bugger all play. maybe 1mm 'side to side' no leaks when on car. be quick, a couple of guys really keen