shanef

by 360deg crank trigger do u mean the std cam reference? or a proper crank mounted missing tooth setup?

thats nice and handy! exactly what u want for proper development

uve always set ur heads up right though, so that would go a long way in helping hurry up and get some revs, boost & timing into the thing and show us the graphs

is it more than twice as good as the garrett equivalent though?

How can one learn when there's soo much smoke and mirrors? I'll just play it by ear

they use to be a good ecu, until ray hall jumped ship and f**ked it all

good thing ur not waving the flag trying to push a product...oh wait

how goods the tune though? blanket responses like that f**ken piss me off

i'm yet to be shown how and why these vipecs/links are sooooo much better than a motec/haltech, u know i'm not going to jump ship with such little info paul. show me solid evidence, and i mean tech specs as to why, then i may consider recommending and using them. and dont get me started on marks tuning, yes he can tune big hp cars, but i've seen some bloody terrible streeters

the m800 has a faster board than the m600. its only $400 more expensive so id go that way between those 2. a fully optioned m800 is going to cost u ~4-5k before you even install it. if ur serious thats the way to go, otherwise get the haltech e11v2

i did the majority. I got the block and cradle digitised and then designed it from there. I also employed a mechanical engineer that specialises in racecar engineering so i could sit down and talk through various aspects of the project. Yeh i shoulda said that, we've left 15thou on the tunnel and the caps are dead square. So the line borer only needs to take 15thou off the tunnel and machine in the radius for the bearings. For the ones i do i'll be using Jack Brothers I'll also add that the studs used will be the longer ones as in the RB mainstuds kits, so no tapping required (hence the cutout on the top surface). Also note that the std oil pickup tube & other casting dags have been machined off so we can get full coverage across all the caps, i wasn't prepared to weaken one cap just to keep an internal pickup. So therefore you'll need to run an external pickup in the sump, no biggie really for anyone wanting to use one of these as they should be going to a custom sump anyway. I got the invoice and to machine up more of these in 7075 they will be $2250 for the rwd girdle and $2450 for the 4wd girdle. To do them in 6061 they're approx. $400 cheaper. Ultimately we feel that the 6061 will be capable of supporting some decent hp, but we dont know as yet what that would be.

f**ken punses from newcastle, suck it up u pretty boys

to deck the block you will need to disassemble it

well ull definately need to go solids for more cam i'd send the head over to will @ jhh in brisbane to do the solid lifter conversion. then also talk to him about cam selection, however he'd recommend something around the 270 10.5 or even bigger for that turbo if money wasnt a big concern, i'd also lookat puttin 1mm valves in the exhaust side, ull also need some big springs

12 months ago when i did the other girdle i was looking into that, but it never got developed that far. I'm pretty reluctant to add in another company for the casting, as to date i've already tried 3 different companies and i've finally found one i know will give me what i want and the finish i want with no questions asked. Also i wouldnt do it at this stage as i'm not sure if the design will change, there are a few things i already want to change, like bringing the webs closer to the block, leaving more meat around the dipstick tube etc. The other thing with cast iron is, it isn't as strong as 7075, 6061 is alot stronger than cast iron. Also i believe an alloy girdle will dampen any detenation and be nicer on the bearings. What are your thoughts on that? I guess ultimately when all the testing is finished and we're 100% happy, we will probably go to something like casting to drop the costs.

yeh we talked about treating/coating it but ud lose the coating on the bearing surface anyway when u machine it, so at this stage we ruled it out. If we find premature wear then we'll look at something like that

do you have camp cap studs? or just the std bolts? i think paul was referring to the aftermarket studs having to be clearanced

oil restrictors? i wouldnt even think about putting that engine in the car until it had a decent oil pump why hasnt the block been decked? i wouldnt trust that surface to seal 100%

Cost. Itd be more expensive to make one from steel due to the time required in machining. Also steel isn't all that good for dampning harmonics, and add to that the massive weight of the thing. We dont have a problem with line boring/honing if you use the right people.

RB30 block - Every single rb30 i've personally seen (which is about 15 to date) has had the bungs for all the oil/water lines Forged pistons & rings - Mahle pistons from USA or get the rod & cp piston combo from spoolimports, if u use the cp pistons get a set of acl oil rings to suit Rods - Spool rods Oil pump - i'd personally put a tomei on it, or better yet an external. ur going to be ringing its neck, lets not hide that fact lol Metal Head gasket - acl gasket kit will surfice Arp rod bolt kit - comes with the spool rods ARP main stud kit - required for ur application ARP head stud kit - required for ur applicaton (u'd be after RB25 headstuds) ACL Bearings - yep their good Water pump - genuine nissan Harmonic balancer (std?) - atleast a ross balancer, ati if ur going to run an external oil pump Modified sump - something with extra capactiy, gates & baffling Custom oil drain & oil restrictors (or is this mainly to suit RB25?) - -10 drain from back of head, oil restrictors Crank collar - proengines do them id also put some poncams and springs in it with adjustable gears hope that helps

That is true it could. We'll soon find out though If theres any other areas that have questions over them, bring them to light so we can get some answers with the testing.

Yes the thermal expansion rate of alloy is greater than that of cast iron, but i dont see it as a great threat to the integrity of the girdle. When the alloy heats up, it will expand at a greater rate than that of the block, however there isnt any real where for it to expand to, it will actually give a tighter lock into the block. This is one of the observations we'll be making with the test engine.

the 4wd adapter is only a 'spacer', its does not tie into the girdle to the block. this girdle ties everything together, the block, crank and girdle

wont know exact price until i get the invoices, as soon as i know i'll post it up thanks. material is 7075

paul, im curious to know how the drain vents the sump. i have a rough idea of where ur going but if u wouldnt mind can u elaborate please