shanef

ive had a few drinks = i cant drive

indeed. i drove into work this arvo to pick a few thigns up, and at the intersection near the brewery there were 2 cars banged up, looked to be a head on...

bitches & cream

u better not let my associates hear that. caus u wont see them until they smile...

soo richard did u get a new flywheel when u got ur last new clutch?

me and my associates have come to the conclusion, that you are all ghey

ahh yes now i see. well with those teins, yes the springs are going to compress/extend when u adjust them. however with the set of teins i put in a mates car recently, the adjustment grooves were closer to the bottom of the cylinder, and had nothing to do with the springs. this is by far the better design IMO

wat was the show/article about?

Not when u use the c-spanners it does not compress the springs. It's kinda awkward to explain without pics...

its a 5puk single plate. clutch pads are carbotic, have the choice of either solid centre or sprung, and pressure plate clamp to suit ur application

Prices take from www.nengun.com - cat back exhaust - $790 cat - catco cat ~$400 trust extension front pipes - $1000 power fc - $960 from the group buy (add another $500 for tuning) jim's clutch - $1300 springs & shocks from SK - $1400 (i think) as u can see it adds up quite quickly P.S thats just the parts, if u cant fit them urself u'd be forking out alot more in labour. I do all the labour myself, except for tuning (of course)

that was a serious reply. u didnt say u didnt want to touch the internals, and it being a 32 and old and u want to make more power from it, it's going to spin a bearing in the future, its a given. but if u dont want to touch the internals id suggest the following: exhaust - 3" cat back, hi-flow cat, trust extension front pipes boost controller - blitz ID3 (run 15psi) power FC fuel pump - dpends how much power u want, bosch 040 or 044 injectors - depends how much power u want, sard 600's or the like suspension - sk's group buy brakes - new rotors & pads (DBA 4000 with ferodo ds2500 fronts and racebrakes rbf74 rear) oil cooler - one of those $340 from performancewise on here clutch - Jim Berry full monty Turbo's - depends on what condition the stocko's are like on ur car, i've got a set of R34 turbo's for sale, they're in great nic and u can pump an easy 16psi through them theres an easy 10k once its all installed, but u'll have a nice all round gtr

with coilovers, when adjusting those 'nuts' you arent compressing the springs, all ur doing is sliding the whole unit up/down itself, through the thread. so to raise the height of the car, wind the screw towards the ground, also the distnace u move the nuts is proportional to the change in height of the car from the ground

are you able to explain ur reasoning behind that? i know of a few engine builders that use NDC bearings, but i dont know how they compare to the ACl race series ones

rip the motor out, buy urself an RB30 bottom end and start the fun

blimey george. 11.XX and 29X ? if so, what have you done with all ur parts from ur old set-up? i could be interested in some, if u've got a list, can u PM it to me?

hmm so 11.XX and 28X ? whats the bloody thing like at idle? (dont suppose u just happen to have a vid of it?) and is it a JUN bottom end?

bryn u cant touch ur super until ur 65

laterz fool

marc where r u getting all this from?

would ur opinion change seeing as the engine bay is now purple pearl, and the exterior is getting a coat of midnight purple 3?

re-wire the fuse box? get farked lol...i've relocated the battery to the boot and re-wired the headlights, and that was more than a pain in the ass

well the left side to cover up the fuse box and hide the wires, and the right side to enclose the pods.

get them made in carbon and get them air brushed you reckon? or stainless and then air brushed?

yeah nice one troy