shanef

Didi you actually read any of the 600 threads that have this info in them before you decided to post a new topic? I suggets u atleast search in the sticky at the top of this section.

how does boost get involved? except for the extra cylinder pressure on the top of the rings. shouldnt the sump be 'venting' all the time seeing as there's not an external/secondary vacuum source involved? (your system is totally open) on the flip side i kinda see what your saying, in that under boost the extra cylinder pressure is bypassing the rings because there is more pressure being forced down then there is vacuum acting aginst the bottom of the rings and the line from the sump to the tank removes this excess pressure. if that were the case then, wouldnt there be a greater need to increase the vacuum below the rings to stop this pressure fed cycle? they've sorted out a system, these questions are for my understanding

earlier in this thread you said the line from the bottom of your intermediate tank to sump is a sump vent? Footnote: Not digging, have been working on a catchcan setup with dan/noel for noels car and have been reading through this thread to double check everything and my ideas

Yes they are still being made. I closed the GB thread to follow the forum rules . I'll put up another one when i have some 'testing results'

im gonna take a punt and say u went to an all boys school hey pauly. ur as bad as a $2 hooker, all they talk about is dicks dicks and dicks (so i've been told) Bring on the boobs!

Go the fanboys! I better shut my mouth though, i dont want uncle nick giving me a kick in the butt again

I dunno, maybe The Wasteland? Why did he feel it was necessary to jump abroad and setup a tuning shop, if he is as good as he's made out to be he's expertise should have been muchly appreciated here in Aus and he would have done well. Bodyform now guilt-toy, ur wanking hand must be pretty sore by now paul

This needed to be posted in Forced Induction why?

why does it take 6 hours to delete pm's from my inbox?

that would require a total new housing being made though wouldnt it dave? as the gears in the gtr pumps are made to work with the internal design of the housing they sit in. Saying that, the rb25/26 pump gears are like a free floating design already, as in the outer gear is centralized by a shelf in the housing and the inner gear rotates freely inside the outer gear. The rb30 pumps have a second shelf between the 2 gears which keeps both central about each other. Like this: RB26 left RB30 right RB30 See the inner gear on the RB30 pump has a locating hub. Also the outer gear has a similar locating shelf. The RB26 pump is flat in the centre and the outer gear is only aligned by the outer shelf.

370rwkw is 34rwkw/47rwhp shy of 550rwhp though ash. Plus show me a power, torque and boost graph of said setups with std heads and i garuantee you the better head will piss all over the budget spec ones.

Have you actually used the gizzmo msibc? From all the reports i've seen and heard it is quite a really good little unit. Having had the avcr in my old car, i'd definately go the gizzmo.

To achieve 550rwhp on that turbo setup, you are going to have to have a really good quality head. i.e oversize valves, a port/polish/chamber job that will actually work and valvetrain gear to support it. Its also going to need a pretty spot on tune aswell with upwards of 25psi+. I'd go the 260 10.25 cams and a good qualty set of springs (supertech are a really good quality spring that are reasonably priced), source them from the states.

That head with cam gears will get you your 400rwkw on ~25psi but with some poncams or 1 step up itd make the power curve alot nicer.

Sorry for not replying earlier guys, had shoulder surgery on wednesday. Expansion from nitriding will be based on how long the material is left in the 'oven'. Seeing as we are only after a 4-6thou penetration depth, expansion will be minimal and this tolerance will be built into the original machining. Also the isotropic finish we are going to use will give us back some of that extra clearance, as this finish microscopically removes the 'peaks and valleys' on the material. We are going to use 24 splines. The more splines used the greater the machining cost as cost is based on per mm of cutting. 24 will be ample for the size of these gears. As greg posted below, 4140 is the material of choice as we feel its properties are optimimal for the application.

Seeing as to fix ur problem one way or another you have to remove the sump, so just find a good condition rb30 pump and put that in, and hey presto!

I cant say i have mate, but these will get a final surface grind after they are treated and a double check before i'm happy to say they're good to go. It certainly is!

Yeh that's something greg said the other day aswell. A std pump will be more than capable to supply enough oil at the right pressure. 4140 as per below Getting all in 4140 so we can wire-cut the splines out of 1 piece. Nitriding will penetrate the surface between 4-6thou, so it wont affect the structural strength or make them 'brittle'.

If they are setup properly in the first instance there is no plausable reason why they should fail. And by setup properly i mean having the correct alignment in both planes, belt guides on BOTH pulleys & correct belt tention. The only ways i can see that it could fail other than incorrect setup would be: - teeth wear (same as ur cam gears though, how fast do they wear? not very fast at all) - belt damage i.e little snick from debris hitting it etc - bearing material passing through the pump scratching both the pump housing & gear sets (you should be running a pre-pump filter anyway) The only downsides for running an external pump in a street based car are: - Required to run thermo fan setup as pulley on front of balancer hits clutch fan - Little fiddley to setup correctly Other than that its full of win P.S You should be maintaining your car properly anyway, if you let maintenance or regular checks lapse, thats when a big failure is most likely to happen.

No, but i did just visit the toilet

There are indeed my good friend. So what we'll have to do is the person after a set will have to specify what thickness gears they are after. Group buy thread here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ts-t285926.html

Theo had a run in the grudge races later in the arvo, had what sounded like missing issues and clicked it off before half track. Even though i wasnt out there perosnally racing, there was a bit of me in both pauls and theo's cars

yes turbo is twin entry (aka split pulse)

That's under valuing it a bit to say the least. Add another $600 and ur closer to the mark you woulda spent. (not saying u didnt spend that but just adding this so everyone doesn't jump to the conclusion it only costs $1400 to do a complete external oil pump setup)

They can be made to suit a stock pump, but these first ones are going to be for the N1 pump. Pump selection should be left upto the engine builder.