aphid

Hey guys this is still all for sale, had a bit of interest but taking too long for people to get back to me.

any interest? need to clean the shed :\

bump again

bump

Sorry location is Brisbane Northside. Hadouken!

Hi guys, I have the original short block from my 34 GTR that has been sitting in the parents shed collecting dust for the best part of four years. The crank has scouring on the no1 bigend bearing, but not really large enough to catch a fingernail in. The others look fine, but I'm no machinist/engine builder so I can't guarantee its condition and as such I recommend a linish The pistons and rods all appear to be fine. The dust you can see in the pictures is saw dust from the old mans attempts at carpentry, not metal and has only collected there as a result of sitting for so long. Also apologise for the flash reflection off some of the bearings pics and lack of quality in others; stupid iphone. Crank: $250 Block: $300 (Includes timing belt, tensioners, baffles, rb25 style sump etc) Rods & Pistons: $120 Will do it all together for $550 ono Would prefer pickup but can probably sort freight if required. PM me for my number (Hate seeing my phone number come up in google Zzz) Thanks, Mark.

turbo coolant lines are something else you could check

Hey guys, I've got my Sard 700CC blue hat injectors for sale out of my 34 GTR as I've upgraded to 1000cc's. They've been in the car for the approximate 15,000km I've done in the car over the last 3 - 4 years and I haven't had any issues with them yet. Chasing around the $650 mark but am open to reasonable offers. Cheers, Markus. 0420 553 651

Hey mate, I tried to inbox you regarding this bar however yours is full. Could you please flick me an email to [email protected]? Thanks, Mark

Yeah I still run the stock intake

Hey mate, I 26/30'd my bnr34 and didn't have many clearance issues. The front of the timing cover *just* clears the bonnet, but presumably under acceleration it is touching as I do get brown marks from the bonnet underlining on the timing cover. I didn't need to put spacers between the chassis and cross-member to clear the sump with the adapter. The rubber intercooler hose that attaches to the intake will also stretch, although I've since replaced mine with Greddy cast pipes. About the only other concern I had was the fact that as I was running a high mount turbo, it became the highest point in the system; so after engine shut down water would sit inside the CHRA and boil, which eventually (I'm talking 6 months+) perishes the coolant lines and causes them to crack. One day I'll get around to installing a proper breather tank, but it's okay for now =) If there's anything else I can help with shoot me a PM!

Argh, I've got the same issue. I've pulled it out a few times and cleaned it out which seems to work well for a while, but eventually it comes back again. The starater motor gear / flywheel ring gear on the bnr34 appears to be different to all other r32 - r34 skylines, I guess due to the dual mass flywheel, so you can't just pick up a spare easily and bolt it on either Just got a quote from Ni$$an for a new unit; $1585 and a week or so wait from Japan.. I've got a feeling the bearing may be shot, I think I may pull it apart this weekend and try replacing it.

location?

http://www.emergencyvehiclelights.com.au/demo_service_booking.php

What do you do with ignition tables in regards to varying ethanol content/fuel mixtures? Add an extra dimension vs ethanol content? Sounds like an absolute mission to get running at an optimum level. I'd think that the optimum/safe ignition advance would vary widely when you started mixing fuels together, as opposed to making ethanol content based corrections to the fueling table which would correlate directly to ethanol content..