aphid

great success! i didn't take any photo's but if you've ever had the lock mechanism out before it's not hard to picture.. there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid onto the lock mechanism, and another screw that was missing (presumably come undone and fallen out some time ago) that held the solenoid to the frame of the door. over time it appears that the plastic bit of the solenoid that pivots the door lock up and down had been flexing against itself and somehow eventually come out of the door lock mechanism.. effectivly this jammed the door lock from unlocking, the only way i found to overcome it was to use a long flathead screw driver with a thin blade to wedge inbetween where the two attach each other and then rotate centrifigully, flexxing the solenoid away from lock mechanism and allowing the door to unlock works a charm once you sit down and take your time figuring out how it all works, which is pretty hard when the fken door won't open and the only way you can get inside the door is to flex the interior trim :S

i'm going to use tin snips and cut the f**ker out

same problem, only on the passengers side, and the door is locked and won't unlock, it appears something in the solenoid is jammed and is preventing the actual door opening mechanism from working f**k it's pissing me off, i've been playing with it all morning, can't get the sucker to open.. any tips?

are you sure that's an HKS turbo? all i see is garrett in the picture? cheers, marcus EDIT: I see it now on the top of the exhaust housing near the flange, sorry.. free bump

hrmz.. i had to cut the braided line just before it joins the sensor to get my exhaust off (long story..) and now i've got the constant warning on my dash.. i've just installed a new turbo / dump / screamer combo, the car runs fine however is seriously lacking in power, turbo lag is exceptional for the size of turbo i'm running and even when it does build decent boost it still doesn't feel like it has the power it should, as if the ecu is retarding the ignition constantly.. thinking back i recalled that when giving it some stick while tuning, if the engine check light came on (knock warning) there would be no cut in power, however if it was a seriouse enough knock and the engine exhaust temps were hot enough to set off the cat temp sensor then there would be an instant drop in power, as if the fc was retarding the ignition.. obviously this was not a frequent occurance, i think i might've done it two or three times, really not enough to confirm my theory, but i thought this would be a logical explanation for this problem.. incidentally my datalogit has decided it doesn't want to connect this evening so i can't confirm my theory that way either

Hey, Just curious as to whether or not a Power FC retards ignition based on a high temp reading from the temp sensor that sits in the cat housing? I have a feeling it does, but just want to confirm it with other peoples experiences Cheers, Marcus

wow, this is sooo soo so true, 10/10 for the review

had the exact same symptoms about a month ago, spent a good 2 days going through the ignition system & afm, only accidently discover it was the CAS, so i would also say start here

echo

yeah she was just stuck up stiff on some of the studs.. decent taps with a sledge in this instance is your friend

the aluminium head is the reason i don't want to put too much pressure on it yup, just went and counted 10 nuts with no bolts on them, and 2 holes where there were no studs, obviously been taken out at some stage during the engines life and not replaced :S have any other people had occurances where the gasket had caused the manifold to stick to the head?

yeah mate pretty sure all the nuts are off, the gasket is sticking it together like all hell, i'm afraid to use too much pressure with the pry bar... i've never actually had to remove a manifold off an RB before, are there any hidden bolt locations that i could've missed like there is with the head? :S

Hey all, Got all the nuts off the head studs, the only thing i can see still holding the manifold to the block is the gasket, and the bitch won't move.. I've wedged a breaker bar between the head and the manifold and put a fair bit of pressure on it but it seems to no avail.. Has anybody got any hot tips on how to get this f**ker off, or what might still be holding it on? cheers in advance, Mark

just like you'd rather push a GTR with no engine than own an rb20..? oh wait.. LOL

bew bew

it's probably just been left there to plug up the hole.. really the only time you're actually going to stall the engine with a venting BOV is if you build boost, lift off the accelerator in turn venting any compressed intake charge then push and hold the clutch in (if you were changing gears then you would effectivly be clutch starting the engine without even noticing).. this doesn't actually happen all that often so it's not as bigger issue as what you're making it out to be and i also don't see how this is dangerous for the engine? the engine is stalling because it's running rich, if the engine was stalling because it was running lean then yes, you may have problems.. correct me if i'm wrong

ah, you actually can remap the ecu but as stated above it's not worth the effort or money, much better to go with an r32 item and a rev switch to control the vct..

you are wwrong

It's a conspirisey (spelling) from car lovers!?! seriously, their buisiness would've grown 10 fold since the water restrictions came in, and by banning the washing of cars with residential water, the same amount of water if not more is still being wasted only now carlovers is profiting from it aha that's my rant for the month

On a more serious note though martin the pose you struck in Hot4's magazine left many in doubt about your sexual orientation, what do you have to say for yourself? Nice work bud

could be the oil moving through the turbo is not yet warm creating more noise.. or perhaps a small boost leak that seals itself when metal expands as it heats up and fills the gap

It's not exactly pointless, a remapped stock computer is just as good as entry replacement units like the Power FC.. Remapping is also a better option than a SAFC, and replacing the r33 item due to the complexity of remapping it with one from an r32 I would dare say is also cheaper..

Pick up an R32 ecu from the classifieds and an RPM switch from jaycar, then either buy yourself the appropriate flasher and download the software from the net and do it yourself, or take it to Dr Drift and he'll do the rest EDIT: Wait, I've just looked at the picture, looks like it may have been flashed before with the socket on it and the sticker on the front of it, could you post up and serial numbers you find on the chip in the socket?

Hey guys, In the not to distant future i'll be converting my rb20e to det by slapping on an rb20det head. The car is an a31 cefiro and automatic with a view to convert it to manual in the long term, but for the moment I'd like to keep it automatic. The cefiro uses an older style ecu, however the pinouts with the newer style r32 ecu are much the same. I've already got a 32 ecu kicking around, which I'll be using in the conversion along with an r32 loom spliced accordingly. The question is to run the auto ecu what would I be better doing, figuring out which wires the original ecu needs to control the automatic box and splicing them in appropriatly (I think the ecu needs to retard the engine ignition on gear shifts, so shifts would be rough if this option was taken) OR take the 32 manual ecu and flash the firmware from an automatic r32 on there? I'm not sure if the gearboxes are the same electronically so could somebody confirm if this would actually work or not? Anyway, any input would be greatly appreciated, Thanks for your time, Mark