aphid

yeah, unless i get it bored then sleaved, but i'm more looking at going down the 3 litre bottom end route, the head valves are all in good condition thank god

hey guys, cut a long story short i was cruising along the highway late at night last week by myself, decided to feed the old girl a little boost, suddenly a loud grinding sound, at first i thought it was my drivers side front shock gone to hell as it's been on it's way out for the last month, and was causing the wheel to rub, then i realised it was having an effect on actual engine performance so instantly i jumped on the brakes and pulled off to the side of the road and when i reached a safe speed immidiatly shut of the engine starting to think that i may have shattered the turbo.. at the time i would've been doing around 5000rpm in 4th gear and been at full boost which would've been around 10 - 11psi for me.. i finally finished pulling off the head thisevening and low and behold cylinder #6 has disintegrated in a big way, about 2/3 of the top of the piston was sort of wedged in the cylinder on an angle at the top, not very hard, the other 1/3 of it i fished out from the sump by hand through the cylinder bore, the conrod is nowhere to be seen and there are a few holes chewed out of the bottom of the bore and it is dented deeply all around.. i'm thinking that it would cause a little more than leening out and a big ping for a breakage such as this to happen.. the engine hasn't had a particuly hard life, never raced on the track or anything and the oil is always changed with top of the line motul oil every 5000 k's.. curious as to what peoples oppinions on this failure are? cheers guys oh i'll endevour to get photo's tomorrow and the car has 102,xxx km's on it.. who knows what it actually might it was purchised directly from a dealer who imports them by the dozen and we all know how they enjoy winding back the km's..

unlucky buddy,

werd

well.. that's what i thought it was from memory, just pulled off my intake manifold and found it has a jecs solinoid underneath it.. wonder what it does, perhaps i should search but it's too late for that

it appears mine has one then.. on another note, jecs is the variable valve system they used on the old rb20 silver tops and the like isn't it.. ie they had one valve on the intake manifold closed and open it when the revs were right..?

BRyn

did 33 gts-t's come with a stocko water fed oil cooler mounted next to the oil filter?

it's pretty piss easy mate, just take your time and remember that lube is your friend (when isn't it?).. make sure you've access to new gaskets though

i can dance, i can dance, everybody look at my pants

did 33 gts-t's come with a stocko oil cooler mounted next to the oil filter?

the whole supercharer idea failed miserably, pulled to half redline then ran too lean and died

same same, it's sitting in the garden from where i crashed it last time and couldn't be bothered going over to pick it up.. what a wasate of $300

thanks a million mate the pics will really help, clears up soo much i shall report back shortly

haha i like your style but i think i'll save it as a last resort now i know theres another bolt behind the intake cam it's just a matter of getting it off, and i now realise that there's also one behind the exhaust cam.. they're located pretty high on the head though so i'm not convinced that these are actually holding the block on.. how strong is the seal between the headgasket block and head?

far out.. behind the inlet cam gear, sorry to be causing such a bother but how the hell does one get that off? it doesn't look like it's bolted on like the exhaust cam, or if it is the bolts are underneath the VCT cover bit on the actual gear.. i removed 3 out of the 4 bolts on that to check out if there was a spring underneath and indeed there was so that went back together pretty quickly.. any suggestions?

jesus christ.. turbo is off, top half of intake manifold is off.. EVERY SCREW IN SIGHT IS OFF but the bitch still won't move! please.. help!

taht or yur'oe rtearedd

spotted - black 34 cruising down waterworks road towards the city.. spotted your SAU sticker so i sped up a bit to have a look.. was in the gunmetal grey cefiro (daily driver lol) but then you gave it some maybe thinking i was turbo or something, respect the rb20e

hah, just did the same procedure as you've described not over an hour ago, such a bitch to get at EDIT: have you got any hot tips on how to remove the top half of the manifold? the bolts on the underside closest to the head are a real bitch to get too, the only thing i can manage to grip it with is a small ring spanner, and i can't put enough force onto it with it

i would've thought that the extra weight in the front wheels / driveshafts would have equated for more than a 1kw loss? perhaps i'm mistaken..

ah i look forward to it all tomorrow arvo when i finish work.. i got the shits with it tonight and ran out of light, decided to take the turbo then the exhaust manifold off.. i will put dads new rattle gun to good use tomorrow

thanks for the advice so far guys, keep it coming by hidden 10m bolts do you mean under the cam cover? Haven't got this far into it yet, i've just got all of the intake piping detatched and fuel lines disconnected heat shields off and have removed the cam covers to make sure i have the right sized socket/allen key to undo the head studs.. now i'm working on unbolting the dump pipe from the joint just before the cat, f**king tight up these bolts are

hey guys, curious as to know weather or not most people remove all accessories (ie intake manifold and turbo) from the head before pulling it off? had a bit of a search and turned up nothing cheers, mark.

i was under the impression that an rb26 crank and conrods were a direct fit into the rb20 and stroked it out to around 2400cc