aphid

Hey, The actual immobilzer for the NATS system the JDM BNR34's are equipped with is inside the factory ecu, that's why they don't want you removing it. If you replace the ECU with something like a VIPEC you'll find you no longer need the coded key to be able to start your engine. The BNR34 Power FC supports the NATS system though, but doesn't need to be recoded to work with the NATS box, like the stock ECU does (if you replace it with another stock ecu it still won't work till you take it to a Nissan dealership and get it recoded). On another note, you say you want a BNR34 Power FC.. I have one sitting right here out of my car with handunit I'm willing to let go relatively cheaply =) Cheers, Markus

How does a hard piping kit create surge issues? Something to do with the rubber being able to stretch and somewhat smooth out the harmonics of flutter? Cheers

it's stock...

bump!

Here's a hot tip, do NOT go to Nissan at Lutwyche. I gave them my car with a working NATS ecu and key ready to be programmed. I got the car back 2 days later, no consultation with there response that the NATS ECU was fried (They'd fried it) which was going to be $550 for a new item and a 2 week wait + 2 hours labor to change on top of the 7 hours labour @ $120 an hour they'd already done to diagnose this. When I declined they said I would need to pay the full $820 before they gave my car back. A quick call to fair trading set them straight, but yeah... Don't ever go there!!!

For future reference to those who may come across this thread! There was NO way it was going to come, even with the sledge, and I didn't really want to crack the wheel hub as it's made of aluminum. I ended up buying a ball joint removal tool from Supercheap for $10, however they're too small to fit under the hub and over the bolt. I ended up inverting one of the ends of the tool, and placing a 17mm long socket over the other end to sort of lengthen it, then a jack under the tool itself to steady it and started winding. I got to the point where there was so much pressure from the tool itself it was lifting the hub, but a quick smack on the top of the bolt saw it come loose. If anybody would like a picture to explain things a little better send me a PM =) The other advantage to doing it this way is that you don't root your ball joints, as you do with a pickle fork!

Stupid question right? As the topic suggests where is the fuse / relay for the horn in an r34 skyline ? Cheers!

so put a multimeter across the plug and measure duty cycle/Hz

I think I might need a sledge =/

Hey guys, Attempting to separate the tie rod end from the wheel hub but experiencing a little difficulty. It's been a while now since I've done this but on my r33 I always used to use a pickle fork + hammer, however the r34 gtr has a cast aluminum hub and looks like it wants to deform if I keep bashing it with the hammer to separate. Has anybody used a ball joint separator, and if so could they recommend the one they used to I know it fits Alternatively if anybody has any tips on using the pickle fork, they would also be very much appreciated! Cheers

The old "Brake Dyno" is great for getting your afrs (fuel table) perfect, however to make good progress on the ignition table you'll need a dyno.. The old n00b tuner ethos of "wind up the ignition till she knocks, retard it a few degrees and she'll be right" really is very overated, although plenty of jap tuners seem to get away with decent results using this method =)

Pretty sure that was me; but it's nismo blue, not bayside! =)

It does infact exist on the r33 & r34

Are you sure it's an rb26 out of a BNR34 and it doesn't just have red cam covers? CAS is an r32 type meaning it at least has an r32-33 exhaust cam, and the intake manifold is from an r32-33 also..

I was of the opinion you can't use the fluid removal/fuse method due to the r34 transfer case having a 'pre-load' meaning the clutches are always slightly engaged, and doing this especially on a dyno where the front wheels are stationary and the back wheels are spinning will cause clutches in the transfer case to wear out pretty quickly..? Is this correct?

In reference to the first few comments, this is more aimed at a MAP setup on an RB26, the issue you run into is to do with multi throttle body / turbo engines R32 TT: Thanks for the information! Guilty Toy: I got the ecu from Godzilla Motorsport but I'm tuning it myself.. Theres no real fun in taking it to somebody to do it all for you But yeah, I've done a conservative tune and am getting pretty consistent afrs with varying throttle amounts so it seems to work pretty well.. Alot of effort to do on the street though..

Hey guys, I've just converted to a Vipec from at PFC setup. Having been blessed with AFM's in my previous tuning efforts, I haven't ever had to bother with 4d mapping. Curious to know how other people combat the issue of varying fuel requirments at the same map/rpm at different tps readings with the multiple throttle/boosted engine the rb26 is. I've got my primary fuel table configured with rpm on the x axis and tps % on the y, then the 4d fuel map with rpm again on the x and map on the y. At the moment I'm thinking to tune the primary map with an average of around 50% throttle, then enable the 4d fuel map and then correct varying afrs on this table.. Any other hints or previous experience people would be willing to share would be great Cheers!!

curious to know how you went.. any luck?

same deal, they bolt on fine, but if you have the stock plenum then the Xpipe will have clearance issues..

Any cam timing adjustment is simply a sacrifice of power elsewhere in the band. What Tomie/HKS dial their cams in as "optimal" from the factory may not necessarily be "optimal" for your own setup..

Yeah, I ended up going ahead last night.. used some goo around the outer edge of the gasket and a tiny drop under the cam caps (This is where it was from factory..), took her for a bit of a burn just then and no leaks thus far.. touch wood!

Hey guys, Curious to know what works in getting the front cam oil seals to do their job properly. I recently had my engine apart and upon putting it back together i reused the old cam oil seals as they looked to be in decent condition and didn't use any gasket goop around the edge as has been suggested by some, and now find I have a slow oil leak out the exhaust side.. I've just picked up two new seals from Nissan and am about to go and install them. From factory it appears nissan use some gasket maker around the outside face of the seal, is this something that is usually done? Is the gasket maker applied on the seal which is then pushed onto the end of the cam, or is this something to be done before the bearing shell is torqued down to make sure all excess gasket maker is removed? Thanks for your help

What day(s) are you racing at Willowbank on? I shall try and head down for some SAU moral support

Just check the basics as has already been mentioned. Ignition - Throw a timing light on the car and check the timing while you crank. If it's not around +15deg then your timing is out, if it's not flashing at all then check your ignition fuse in the boot & everything in between. Fuel - If the car has ignition and you can't smell unburnt fuel out the exhaust, pull the CAS off and spin it with the ignition turned on, you should be able to hear the injectors fire. If you can hear them firing and still nothing then pull the high pressure fuel hose off and put it into a bucket and again flick the key to on. Fuel should spit out into the bucket. If you have all of these things, the car should start. I would use the power fc over the stock ecu any day to get it running with. Scale the injectors correctly and set the afms to RB25 (RB20 & 25 are the same thing) and try and start then.. Just continue to mess around with the tune till you get somewhere Also, if it's been a year you might want to change your fuel, it tends to absorb water and break down over time. My 2cents

How about this.. You register a PO box in Tasmania and get mail redirected from said PO box back to your home address. You then get your banking address changed to said PO box. After you've got your P plates you head on down to old Tassy with a copy of your bank statement dated a month or so old and get your license changed over. You will now legally be able to drive turbo cars.. If you wanted to keep up the image you could even look at picking up a nice 32 gtst while you were down there, I think there is quite an abundance. This way it's registered in Tasmania with a roady you can take with you to Tas Roads (Whatever it's called down there ) when you get your license done and change the rego over at the same time, and drive home with your hektic new car.. Have fun with insurance though, full comp was something like >2k a year about 5 years ago when I was 18 and living in Melbourne with my GTSt, I can only imagine what it is these days