aphid

Thanks for the answers guys! Yeah, kind of what I suspected The previous owner told me that when he had the clutch changed by Advan in Sydney they had great trouble in finding one that would fit and the comment from the mechanic was that the gearbox wasn't standard the standard r34 gtr box, which I did find rather hard to believe I guess it would make sense that I may have a Nismo input shaft.. Could you be nice enough to link me somewhere that has details on how I could identify the Nismo item compared to the stock? Cheers

Hi guys, Last night I was assembling my 26/30 I've just built from what was left of the rb26 out of my r34 gtr. I went to line the clutch up as you do with an old input shaft that I have used previously to line the clutch up on my r33 gtst however it wouldn't fit :S Does anybody know if the input shaft of the getrag 6 speed from the 34 gtrs or if gtrs in general have a different input shaft compared to the gtst? I've tried a search but came up empty Thanks in advance! Mark

Yeah I wouldn't be so sure either, the newer Integras are pretty quick.. Stock for stock I'd say it would be close, all comes down to how skilled both drivers are at launching I guess..

just get some king springs mate, she'll be right.

When the engine is running and driving the alternator the car should float around 14.5V which should be enough.. 1.5V difference will hardly upset it If not you'll have to get a DC/DC convertor, they're a bit exxy too, Dick Smith has some generic ones you can get pretty cheaply and cut up for your application if you're handy with a soldering iron, which I think you'd want to be if you're doing this yourself

haha cheers mate, i will do

Hi guys, Just wondering if anybody on here could recommend a place where they've had their wheels repaired at? I have a set of r34 GTR wheels that have a bit of gutter rash and have been sprayed 2pac black which is now peeling, I want to get them repaired and resprayed the proper bronze colour.. Thanks in advance!

screamer pipe

Theoretically the same amount of power it robs off it in mechanical form, plus another 20-30% in the energy conversion.. The pump itself weighs like >1kg so that is hardly going to effect weight distribution a worthwhile amount and the belt is $20 and lasts forever.. The only advantage I could see is you could increase WOT power and engine response by the slightest amount as the engine doesn't have to deal with spinning the weight of the pump more than it has to anymore.. I guess if you needed the space to bolt one of those supercharger kits or a dry sump pump there it would be feasable, but for shits and giggles I think it really is one of those pointless mods, up there with the electric supercharger IMO EDIT: If you're still keen though the item from a Toyota MR2 seems to be a pretty cheap and popular choice..

pussy

The car will still try to send power to the front wheels, only nothing will happen. If you're that worried still just pull the ATESSA fuse!

blown turbo?

only if you let me spoon you after

If you have problems with your TPG internet or mobile connection I can probably help you skip the 3 month help desk waiting list.... Or if you're a hot chic I can look up your address, break into your house, hide in your cupboard and watch you while you sleep THAT IS ALL

I'm undecided Most of my mates don't want to enter this year cus of bad experiences last year, so we might just head down for the last day or something to watch..? Still it would be fun to wind out the old girl on the track and smoke some of the local v8's for a laugh

Haha, he means READ, not REED.. so to speak A quick one - The rb26 head bolts are thicker as well as being a different thread to the rb30 head bolts arn't they? I noticed a post from shanef from quite some time ago detailing how he used rb25 ARP head studs to bolt on an rb26 head to avoid having to getting a block machined... does the extra 1mm difference in stud thickness matter that much in the positioning of the head, or do the two dowels do a good enough job?

LAWL! that is all.

pm's replied! Headlights are sold pending payment. If it falls through I'll post up letting you guys know they're back on the market!

Headlights are on hold

LOL considering it doesn't have an internal gate it's going to require a bit more than the "usual suspectcs".. try a new exhaust manifold & external gate as well

Hey guys, I have here a set of non xenon r34 headlights that I've removed from my R34 GTR as I've bought a set of xenon headlights. The headlights are in pretty good condition, with the actual lenses having no fogging at all. There is one mount that has snapped off on the underneath of the passengers headlight, however it isn't visible and I do have the mount which will be supplied should somebody want to get it plastic welded back on. I'm chasing $550 + p&h for the lights. If you're interested send me a PM, call me on 0420553651 or msn me at [email protected] Cheers

Hey guys, Does anybody know off the top of their heads the bolt/thread sizes on the RB bellhousing? It's an r34 rb26, I'm pretty sure they're all th same though. Thanks in advance! Mark

Hi guys, I have for sale a fully manuallised jatco 4n71b. Details: Clutches and bands done Internal modifications Associated machining etc Includes: Flex plate Starter motor 5000rpm stall converter Tailshaft to suit r33 Basically everything except the shifter, bolt in and go Would obviously suit serious drag setup.. It's actually never been used at the strip as I'vedecided to go with a v8 setup instead. It's currently still in the car however I will have it out and have pictures up shortly. If any further information is required get in contact with me and I'll endevour to answer your queries! I'm chasing $2000, although I am open to offers. Not really desperate for cash at this stage so please no low ball offers The box is located in Thirlmere, NSW. Phone: 0429 936 696 Msn: [email protected] Thanks alot guys! Daniel

BOO YA =)

Not really across what kind of tuning ability the Greddy EMU gives you, can you run a map trace on it? If so, replicate the conditions it'll stall under watching the map trace and note the cells it'll hover around when it stumbles and stalls (Should be the very left column) and then lean the shit out of them.. To stop the stalling on my engine (T04Z rb26 with a power fc) I have to run these so the ecu thinks it's running an AFR of around 25:1 I dare say that'll fix your problem.. EDIT: The stock ecu runs +15deg ignition at 650 - 900rpm, so as long as your ecu is still stock and the Greddy EMU isn't set to intercept the ignition if you're seeing +15deg ignition at idle your timing will be correct