Brockas

R888's last longer, but don't have as much grip. RE55's have more grip, but don't last as long. If you're chasing times don't bother with the R888's, but if you're doing targa or something requiring a long tire life, they are quite a good compromise.

Beer Baron, what boost control are you using on that second graph? Holds very well. Anyone who gives an "expert" opinion on a tune after only seeing an AFR graph, isn't an expert. For example, my car came over with 11.5:1 AFR's, but pinging its ring off because there was over 30deg ignition timing in the top end.

Did a shoot on a mates S15 last night. Turned out ok. The only thing done is photoshop is "levels", everything else is basically straight off the camera. Sony A200, 50mm F1.4 lens.

Few months on for me now, and the standard box is still handling 400rwkw. I've tracked it several times, done Dutton rally on it, hundreds of launches, not a problem. I'll admit though, I haven't been drag racing it, and that 2nd-3rd shift is very gentle. There's a couple of people using them over here. Nathan Webb has one in his 34, hasn't had a problem so far.

Fair enough, I've never seen that done to Aries, but good to know it works. Complete 2nd hand RB26 = $4k. With labour for removing/installing new engine, you'll be lucky to see change from $6k. Then there's no guarantee that it wont pop again soon after. At least if you build the motor, you can build it to the specs you want, and it'll last a fair while with strict maintenence.

Depends how good the internals are. Arias pistons rattle hard when cold. I'm using Tomei pistons and Pauter rods. Mine starts first time, runs exactly the same as a standard motor. Standard idle, no noise. The reason a lot of motors die (especially 26's) is because they've been driven HARD for 100,000kms. They suffer oil problems if tracked, or if maintenance isn't top notch. Piston rings/head gaskets can die from a number of things. Too much boost (not likely on a 26), detonation, etc. How long will a rebuild last? How long is a piece of string? Dollars for an engine build, before the exchange rate a full build (with top quality gear) was about 12k. Now, its about 19k. Basic rebuild with average parts would be about 6k + labour.

Blue line is Cerbera's. 2.6L, JUN 270deg cams, 2nd hand pistons. Very basic build. Red line is Nik's (DCIEVE). Not as sure on the specific's of his build, but it is a standard displacement 2.6L. The reason I used Cerbera's T04Z graph instead of Simons (R32-GTS) is because Simon's has extensive head porting to make it come on song a lot earlier.

Most even comparisson I can find between a T04Z and GT35, similar exhaust housings (both ~.8) Similar boost levels (T04Z = 24psi, GT35 = 25psi). No porting on either, similar cam duration and lift.

You missed the point there champ. A "forged motor" (ie. something with forged rods/pistons) doesn't inherrently make more power. You don't get 1000hp from pistons and rods. You can make decent power by upgrading the support systems and pushing them to the limits on a motor that can handle it. Somehow I think you're going to have to upgrade the turbos before you really find the limit of a stock VR38. Thus until Haltech do that, building a stronger motor is near-on pointless.

Thats a fair bit of angle there. Last minute thing, went out and took a few photos of a mates GTR. Next time he'll wash it before we shoot.

Oh please. We all whinge about it, but that right there is the number 1 reason Nissan make it as difficult as possible to modify the GTR. One engine fails prematurely due to completely unknown circumstances while being circuit raced, and all of a sudden the VR38 has a "limit". The internet warriors get a hold of this story, chinese whispers begin, and the VR38 is a soon known as a 'weak' engine. Once the exact cause of the failure has been determined, and other motors start experiencing failures are similar power levels, then maybe you can claim to have been the first to find the limit. Until then, it's a single motor which has failed, while other 500+hp GT-R's soldier on. Obviously I haven't seen the engine, but let me get this straight... You're suggesting that two pistons, failed simultaneously, in the exact same point, at the same time, due ONLY to a structual flaw in the piston design? Isn't it far more likely the piston separation is a by-product of a more serious underlying issue? Was fuel pressure, oil pressure, or oil temperature logged at any stage in this "testing"?

Few I took of Steve's at Targa West:

Murdoch here.

If you want to skimp, get the sump extension, a decent oil pump (JUN HKS etc), and a head restrictor. I'm running that setup, and I haven't had any problems on the track at all with oil pressure (even running RE55's and a decent suspension setup etc).

Few of my pics of Nathans new car: 2.7L, holinger, etc etc...

My pics of Steve's 34 GTR:

Few R32 pics from the Sprint Series on Sunday:

Cheers for the beers dude. Pity it didn't solve the problem. For wiring, the best guy we use for this stuff is Rob Turner, but he's working at All Star Garage now instead of doing cashies.

Wasn't a skyline, was an S14. http://www.silviawa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41828

Review was a bit "yawn" to me, nothing I haven't read in countless auto magazines. But at least you used your own photos this time! IMO this is a better review: http://www.caradvice.com.au/16897/2009-nissan-gt-r-review/

I only have his initial run, which only made about 500hp and finished at about 7k. He has another chart where he's made 550hp and revs out. Thats the only one worth putting in that graph.

I've updated that graph to include T04Z, GT35R, and low boost 2530's. Still chasing a decent gt-ss graph (~470hp). http://www.antilag.com/forums/showthread.p...5661#post355661

I only have one of his preliminary tunes. I'll see if I can get a copy of his latest graph, which shows the -5's with roughly the same top end as the GT-RS's but with the massive midrange. I can probably get a copy of a set of GT-SS's running abour 460hp to compare as well, so I've kept all the data and will add to it when I get the chance. Oh, and the 2.8L of John's with the 2530's is running roughly 20psi.