grim32

There are 4 10mm bolts, one at each corner. They are on the outside of the head, if you look you will see them.

I would leave manifolds on, easier to unbolt it all when you have room

I thought the block would of had all the oil and water fittings already there, mine did, must of been lucky. Have you decided on the comp ratio yet and what boost do you plan on running

Hey Tiff hows your car coming along? All well i hope. I had some problems last time on the dyno but all fixed now and goes back on the 27th for another go.

Hi Ian hows it all working out for ya? I might be able to add a bit here but first just have a quick question, what are your thoughts on this radiator shroud, its off a gts4 and the seller says thats how they are but it looks as if a bit is missing and cubes also seems to think so. Do you think it will work well enough as it is or should i try and get the missing bit for it(if there is one) Here is a pic of my current steup, 2 14" davies craig thermos being controlled by the davies craig temp switch. I also make these kick on with the aircon via a relay Like this i usually see temps 88-92 just sitting around with the bonnet up, i think the temp switch is to blame as that is the earliest it will let me kick the fans on and stuck in traffic it has gone to 106-110 but at the time my alternator wasnt charging real well and the fans were down on power. The fans also overhang the radiator slightly and they dont have a shroud which wouldnt help them out at all. Most of the time the temp is fine but i also noticed that it took a long time to bring the water temp down. My new plan of attack is to put a clutch fan and shroud back on and im going to try and fit a commodore fan in front or the radiator as an overheat fan and to kick on for the aircon, time to put some of the wolfs features to use. PS. smoothest idle we could get was with 1.2ms injector time, under 1.18ms it would just miss and shake and the afr at idle is 11-1, oh yeah!

Thanks guys ill pull it apart tomorrow after work and see what it looks like.

Timing cover looks fine except for oil and shreaded belt everywhere. The belt was moving backwards and hitting the backing cover, i measured the tension when pulling it out and reset the tension the same.

My mate said they were fine, 5000kms ago we did the belt in the 20 with a gates one and just transfered them to the 25

Thats where i would be looking first, make sure its plugged in properly.

Thats all you need to do

Ok just went to have a play with the car and found a few litres of oil under it, pulled off the timing cover and found this...... Lucky this engine is still alive. Ok the motor is a stock r32 rb25de, timing belt and cams out of my rb20det are the only mods to the inside. My mate done the timing belt for me then i was told i should change the cams, no worries pulled it down and put it back together exactly the way it was. I turned the motor over a number of times by hand and noticed the belt moving forward and if i turned the motor the other way the belt would go back. I called my mate and he said that the big washer that goes on before the crank pulley would stop the belt from moving. Motor started fine and drove well. Higher up in the rpm, maybe above 4000rpm it started to make a whine noise like a boost leak. I wasnt driving the car hard so i didnt worry about it, checked all the hoses and all looked fine so i thought i would wait and find it on the dyno as it didnt seem to have a vacume leak. Some hoses were changed at the dyno then i didnt hear the noise again so i thought that was the end of that, turns out it wasnt, in the second pic you can actually see it worn a hole on the backing plate. Now my question is, what have i done wrong. Would it be possible to bend a crank as when i undid the crank pulley bolt it had been lock tighted in and i had to use a big hammer and that hitting bar thing that breaks bolts. Would i not have lined up the cams properly, i just bolted them in and they spun easily. Well i guess you learn by your mistakes. Any thoughts are appreciated.

At the moment im just going to fix what is wrong with it and then see what results i get. Maybe cams and exhaust housing changes may come in the future but i guess ill just have to wait and see as i dont want to push this motor too hard and im quite happy with the power its making. My car usually spends most of its time in the garage getting worked on , now my aim is to drive it more than i work on it so i really dont want to break it again just yet

The boost controller i have is run through the computer but is turned off as i dont think i need any more boost at the moment

I suspect cam seals are chewed out, the catch can was dry so i dout it was blow by and i couldnt even hear the pinging, the listening guy who had his head under the bonnet picked up on it lol

The gate has a 1 bar spring but its only a cheap gate silly me should of got a good one first time around

.5ar front, 71mm wheel 56 trim .63ar rear, external gate, 60mm wheel 84 trim

I think that run was at 13 degrees but started pinging. When the bugs are ironed out we will rev it a bit harder, probally to 7500rpm if its happy. Could throw some cam gears at it if i find them cheap as im happy with power level now, dont want to ring its neck too hard

Try unplug the the 2 pin plug on the alternator and see what happens

Well i have to start off by thanking Adam very much, he takes the time to do things right and im very happy with the work he done on the tune for me aswell as doing it as he isnt too keen on the wolf. The motor that i put in the car is a R32 non vvt RB25de but i put the RB20det cams in it. Another change to the system was putting the standard fuel reg back on and taking off the 2:1 malpassi, i also run a relay on the fuel pump so it gets full voltage. First up Adam wanted to re route some vacume line and check timing with the light, after that was out of the way tuning began with idle and light load points, hot start then took a lot of timing out of the map so it could be increased bit at a time. Then he started to iron out the fuel map and everything was going well. As you can see by the graph we didnt rev it very hard as it started pinging. From ignition timing at 9 degrees we were seeing a 10-12rwkw gain with every degree added. We pulled the plugs to find them all different colours, 4 looked good but 1 was a grey and black weird colour and one was pure white so thats where we stopped the tune. The plan now is to flow test the injectors and see how they go as i had them cleaned before they went in but never flow tested them, Adams theory is that it is still making good power with more timing so one cylinder may be leaning out and causing the pinging. Anyway pulled it off the dyno to find a big oil patch under the front of the motor, seems to be comming out the front cover, guessing the cam seals and it looks like it may be chewing up the timing belt or cam seals by the black fibre gunk it spat out the back of the timing cover, my fault i guess as i did the work there. End result im very happy and need a bit more playing with it to get it all sorted out.

I went with the GT3071R on my RB20 which i think was a perfect match for it. I have now put a Rb25DE+GT3071R into the car that is getting tuned on 1 bar tomorrow morning so i will post up dyno charts tomorrow night if all goes well http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=107517&hl= Thats the link to my thread when it was on the 20.

First i would try turning off all the stereo, amps etc etc and see if it charges at the correct rate, 14.1 when cold and about 13.6 volts when warm. The reason i say this is because you may have tapped into the voltage sence wire somehow so the alternator thinks the battery is low on voltage and will throw out a higher rate of charge.

Its a shame ive got a 1 bar spring in the wastegate as im getting a tune done in the morning. If i had a 7 psi spring i could get two different boost printouts done, and no im not gonna put 20psi into a na motor, well not yet anyway lol. In theory i dont think it should make any more torque untill it sees more boost but i do think by seat of the pants feeling they do pull harder down low for some reason on higher boost

85 and 86 are the coil Gave up on it anyway, have the pump running full voltage now so ill work something out with the timer later.

Ha ha yeah but then my dash will look stupid with A: A turbo timer that doesnt work, or B: A spot where the turbo timer was glued on. lol. I unplugged the factory relay and plugged wires in to connect it to a different relay and everything works sweet at 10.9 volts, then i tried joining the 2 blue wires together and use this for the trigger and connected a fused 12 gauge wire from the battery on the relay. Starts fine with 13.6 volts but at shutdown the timer will not keep the car running. Does it really matter if it isnt getting positive from the same old place? Who would of thought one relay could cause so much trouble. I think ive wired it up every way possible as well.

The relay was under the rear boot trim on the drivers side, it is a green relay and plug. Ive tried to wire this thing up every way possible with no success, it does work fine until you switch the car off then reds stay on but car stalls so there must be an issue with the turbo timer somewhere that is causing another problem. Put the wires back to standard and the turbo timer works fine. Ill have another play with it this arvo as i would like to get this fixed up before the tune on monday but if i cant get it sorted i guess ill leave the malpassi reg in it with the pump at 10.9 volts.