andrewwr32

Yeh got that, thanks. Something I noticed just looking at the manual again is the fact that you're supposed to use an engine speed sensor, and get a reading at 300rpm - they did not use a speed sensor, nor release fuel pressure (as stated in the manual). Is it possible 138psi is all the guys arm could hold down? If it did hit 300rpm, that's 5 firing's per second. I'm wondering, with a rubber "bung" holding the gauge in - just how reliable that is? If there's dirt around the area the rubber is sealing against - air could escape, maybe?. I'm clutching here I know, just want to bounce some ideas around See, I was thinking at first fuel pressure would if anything RAISE compression figures. But thinking just a bit more - fuel does not compress. You end up with less air in the cyl. But - that could INCREASE pressure - same force on less air. It's confusing!!! I wish I knew what the **** I was talking about lol Also, my mechanic did not have a screw-in compression gauge (Allen gauge, whatever the hell they're called) - it was just his arm and a bit of body weight holding the thing in (leaning over car, obviously). I do trust them, they do this shit all the time and had a new gauge (different to the last time I had my Silvia tested). I'm wondering if perhaps this isn't really a true reading. Well, I'll rephrase that - I'm HOPING it's an incorrect reading When I get the car, it's stitched up now - I'll take it to a tuner for a baseline test - see what they get as a compression reading, get it dynoed, and get some more results. Worst comes to worst I have to rebuild @ say 5k? Maybe 6k?. In a year or so... hopefully longer. That's BIG outta pocket - but at the same time I get exactly what I want - a new RB26 engine. Thoughts please

Yes, that's really quite good I would say! No rebuild at any point? What KMs? I wish mine was 150. I've done a lot of posting to old sites (S13 related, etc) to knowledgeable people who've done lots tuning etc. The consensus is the motor will be fine, but if I boost the shit out of it I'm in trouble. Boosting isn't my primary goal, I've owned turbo jap cars long enough to understand it's all about flow - not rising boost. Sure, if I wanna race or whatever, I'll up it. But as I learnt with the Silvia, you can change turbos and intake/exhaust etc and get more power at less boost, thereby giving your engine a longer life. This is my intention with the GT-R. If and/or when I want to go high boost, I'll be prepared to tear the motor down. There is no variance in the cylinders, so it's just age. There is also the vague possibilty that my mechanic's gauge is not spot on. He also did not release fuel pressure, as the manual states. I would imagine though that if anything that would give a higher reading (fuel pressure added to the cyl compression). He didn't seem to think it mattered (the fuel pressure being there).

Scuse ignorance, but couldn't you change rings, bearings and gaskets without doing a lot of this stuff? I mean pumps, head reco, bottom end clean, balancing? I understand once the engine is down you might as well do it all, and I would, but just a Q from curiousity... Still, when compression is gone I guess valves n stuff (head reco) has to be done - cos that could be the issue. Then, that could no doubt be tested. I guess the answer is no, that'd be silly

The car was up for $27990. I'm trading two silvias, fairly hammered in terms of paint & interior, one Q, one K with mods (GT-SS, Apex Hybrid, 2450lb clutch, 3" mild steel, z32 brakes, etc). So the two silvys + 16,100. I could do better with a private sale on the silvys, but it so much hassle and with their nick and people test driving and stuff - I really can't be arsed. I've been looking just a few weeks; I'm probably impatient to my own detriment, but I don't see myself finding much any better, without flying to Japan. (?) Thing is I'm looking for something virginal. I don't want a modded, hammered car - it's condition is fantastic. Color is great. Brembos (big deal for me), great interior. Spotless engine back (the slave cyl has leaked at some point and stripped a little paint but it's well rusted on that little patch (surface) and hasn't seeped even with me really CLAMPING on the anchors, so I believe that's history. Here's my spiel on the car I posted, with some (nokia) pics.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=77434 Seriously, tell me like it is. I want feedback

Well my best mate is a mechanic. I would get cheap labour, but not REAL cheap (they still have a business to run, and he has a partner, and he don't work outta hours, much like me). Not speaking off full rebuild, just the rings and necessary bits like bearings gaskets and stuff... Less than 6k you think Duncan? I hope so !!!

But I love everything else about the car! It's my only concern... :goddam: I could just take it, and expect to replace rings, bearings and gaskets in a year or so. I'm guessing 3-4k for that. Whaddya think?

My advice, from experience - go ask some tuners. If you have a tuner, ask them. Go to cruises, that sort of thing - and ask ppl whose exhaust you like. The way I see there are two choices - buy an expensive Jap brand (best) or find a place in your area that does DECENT work with stainless, or mild should you want to save cash (I would go SS, after owning mild steel on a Silvia). Just my 2 cents. I'll be going to right-price in moss st, brisbane, for my dump+front pipes in SS (car has Fujitsubo Titanium cat-back). Just my 2 cents

I'm starting to miss a lot of words when I'm typing posts. I think that drinking on the weekend might've actually damaged my frontal lobe or something... :bonk:

Yeh quite simply engine wear will reduce compression. If there is variance between cylinders, that shows abuse or ill-health, so I am told from decent sources. Compression will just reduce over time - over KMs. I am aware motors that have been sitting for some time will show lower compression when first started - I saw this with an SR20DET of mine. It increased by 10 after a week or two. However, I've flogged this thing enough myself - so I don't see that being the case. I will however, as my mechanic suggested (best mate) check it in a few weeks of driving. He old man, who runs the shop, reckoned it won't change since I've already flogged it. We'll see who's right They're always arguing... lol :chairshot

Here's something interesting (to me at least). Let me clarify first I have walked from what I myself personally believe to be fake Nismo GT-R. Anyway, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=77434 This is the car I am now buying, kitted out to look just like a factory NISMO; not purported to be one. Now, the boot lid has a vaguely noticeable oval indentation in the paint, exactly where the NISMO badge is on the back of the car you posted a pic of (Rezz). Interesting - perfect Nismo kit, now evidence of a nismo badge. I'll have to check under the spoiler I guess... :confused:

Thx for the reply. Yeh that's what my mechanic said. The ODO says ~61000, with a Tomei speedo, but even the dealer agreed that's probably unlikely the real KMs (I've been very happy with the honesty of these guys, it's really worked for me and brought me on board). Mechanic they are all the same, 138, that that indicated probably up to 100 thou kms, but nice treatment and no abuse. The car's condition is excellent. And MAN is it FAAASSSSTTT! :crazy: :crazy:

Guys, I just a had car I'm lookg at buying comp tested at 138 - across all cylinders. This seems a bit low to me... Thoughts? Andrew

Guys, how much generally to replace a clutch in an R32 GT-R? Labour, clutch cost?

Hehe now I'm intrigued... R32 Golf... wtf is that?!?! I'll go see some flamin then... :matrix:

Ah no probs! That's the thing I've been liking about SAU the short time I've been on here - ppl not whinging and flaming and carry on like little kids. It's refreshing

Sweet thanks, will find that thread. I have got the manual PDF, and the comp is 171 best and 128 low. 128! That's fkn low! Yeh I'll want to see at least 140, hopefully a decent bite more. I guess one has to bear in mind the little the car has been driven whilst in transit though??? (?)

Yep still want ATTESA info, hit me guys with your car's behaviour. I shoulda started an ATTESA thread Yer, that'll be the go. The engine oil and other fluids I could easily check were definitely new, either that or this is uber-clean engine hehe I have the service manual, guess I can just get the oils info from there... Thanks m8 - it's funny I haven't got tired of ppl saying that yet :uh-huh: Andrew

Well, not black - it's gunmetal - was a cloudy day. I guess ultimately I prefer black, but love gunmetal too. Nice part with the gunmetal is you don't have to wash it so much and as we've just seen, it looks a bit diff in diff light :whatsthat My thoughts exactly. You GOTTA flog a car like this before you sign the dotted line Weird, ppl have been saying the 33/34s were more front-biased than the 32... :confused:

Oh ok of course - THAT Nissan badge heheh. Yeh I reckon it was done to Nismo-ify it more...

Which badge's that? I've just spent 10 minutes trying to find a stock as pic of an R32 GT-R but... didn't... The thing I like is the full Nismo kit, and if you at this pic Rezz posted up for me: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=39295 You'll see it's pretty much identical (outside only of course). So maybe something was removed to Nismo-it? What badge though, keen to know... Thanks... The car sure don't appear to have been sprayed at all, not recently that's for sure. It's so fresh into the yard they hadn't even detailed it, and the factory code KH2 matches the paint... Just to clarify, I was on about a genuine Nismo on another thread. This isn't that car, I walked away from it (almost ran). This is a stocko car except Nismo kit, titanium catback, brembos all round and 3-piece mags.

Thx, more ppl agreeing the merrier I get. Hrm, group buy on ATTESSA controllers... kinda apt for this thread! Hrmmmm.... Better get the damn car first I suppose... come on paperwork!!! :Pimp2:

Yaaaay! You've got the same thing. You've had your car for a while? And flogged it a lot? Thanks mate, I've been DYING fo someone to give me a good answer on this one. As I suspeted, it's being predictive not reactive... Sweet as... Cheers, Andrew

No, but maybe ask the moderators to see if he's been online. If he has, and isn't doing shit, then you got an issue! If he hasn't been online there might be a simple real reason... like being in hospital after writing off his car. That sux man! Still, I would talk to moderators, whoever they may be (I'm new). Just my 2 cents...

Yeh I do think it's a matter of dirt/rust on the pads and me being used to very bitey Z32 calipers on a Silvy. The way I see it, there ain't too much can be wrong with Brembos. The ABS works, I slammed on severely and tested that. Felt weird cos it's automated and not under my control, but I understand that. Interior is very nice - bit of dirt on the seat fabric is the only imperfection. I think it'll shampoo/steam clean out. And sheesh those seats are sooo comfy compared to the S13 Edit: I will flood you poor guys with photies once I have the car in my possession

Pentae - your profile says R32 GT-R... can you tell me about my front wheel torque question? Meaning, do you see FW torque in a straight line in 2nd? 3rd? I'm just a bit paranoid something in the torque-split setup isn't right... My best mate is a mechanic - not far from the yard. I'll take it to him for the compression test during next test drive. ATTESSA fluid and diff I don't know - but will find out - thx for the tip. And yep 89 model. Old, but good nick, so I don't care As long as I can work out this ATTESSA thing. I have $500 hold on it, ain't signed nuffin yet...