[SPOTLIGHT wiring . Black red and brown wires]

 

1

The attached image  is  a 12v car spotlight 

It was connected  by a red wire and a black wire 

I replaced the bulb but didn't notice the hidden brown wire until a few days later !!!!

 I do not   know if the brown wire was originally attached .

Can I ignore the brown wire?

2

 

The connection on the brown wire is half the size of the black and red connections.

There does not seem to be a connection point for the brown wire.

This spotlight came off another vehicle years ago .

 

3

Maybe the auto  electrician  who originally wired the system  only need a red and black wire to be connected?

 

it's a H2 halogen bulb which costs $31 and difficult to source  so

I am  reluctant to experiment with switching wires. to see what 

does and does not work.

 

4

If I connect it without the brown wire ,will it stuff things up?

 I now have only the red and black wires re-connected. If they are connected  back the front will that cause a problem?

Thanks in advance 

 

[Where to replace an ignition key which activates an alarm system ?]

No idea of what was needed . I just forked out the money to make the car compliant. The fob is an auto watch.

so an autowatch immobiliser

[Where to replace an ignition key which activates an alarm system ?]

Had a glitch up loading but here is the spare key

[Where to replace an ignition key which activates an alarm system ?]

Where can I go to  replace  a remote ignition key which activates an alarm system and also  opens and locks the. doors ? 

 

The key was stolen but we have a duplicate which engages and disengages the alarm system , locks the doors and starts the car .

I am not even sure if what I have was standard  for the NM35 or is an aftermarket alarm. 

If after market it was installed in Japan.

I have a short  black thing  on my key ring( a RF transponder??????) about3 cm longhand 10mm wide which has to be near the ignition for the car  to start

 

 I have a personal import NM 35 so the Nissan dealer doesn't want to deal with this vehicle 

regardless of the issue.!!!!!

thanks in advance

 

 

[m35 stagea constantly going into limp mode]

I had the same problem just recently, going into limp mode  with an nm35 2003 model but is was limping  once a week or 3 times a day .( 149,000k)

There was no perceived pattern.

The mechanic swapped two relays around . one relay was the lights and unfortunately  I can't recall what the other was . PM me if you haven't resolved the problem then  I will visit him Wednesday  for you, as I don't come onto the forum very often. Obviously the relays were interchangeable if that helps.

He mentioned that perhaps there was some moisture or a poor contact. sorry I can't be more useful

Previously when this happened  a few years back, a throttle body was replaced but you have done that already

[OBD2 scanner tool suitable for a Stagea NM35]

Which model phone are you using to read the data.

 

Its not compatible with Pixel 2 I believe,  which is what I have.Pixel 3 is ok

I have access to an iPhone 6 which I believe will work

How good is the HKS product ,as it will be a $300import from Japan plus gst.

I was hoping for a solution around half that price but if its a killer tool then I can be swayed

will it do a Mazda 3 or skyline1996 or most vehicles beyond 2010?

 

I just read a comment that Carscope plus is not supported by IOS13and that the HKSunit was useless 

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/carscopeplus/id689888262

[OBD2 scanner tool suitable for a Stagea NM35]

Thanks but I have a VQ25DET motor  in the  series 1 ,2002 stage NM35  which isn't in the list josh supplied.

Thanks for the link  but there seems a few issues one you search  through the comments. I will follow up and see if I get a response.

Is anyone certain which protocol is used by Nissan for the OBD 2 tool

eg Ancel  BM700  OBD scanner definitely won't work.

[OBD2 scanner tool suitable for a Stagea NM35]

 Which scanner auto code reader  will be able to successfully 

read  OBD2 protocols of a 2002 Nissan Stagea NM35.

 

Does this car  have protocol KWP2000/ISO 14230-1

It has a VQ 25 motor

thanks

[M35 Obd2 Or Is It?]

I want to buy a  OBDII  tool  for a  Stagea NM35 ASX.

My vehicle has   been going into Limp mode infrequently and 2 different mechanics have not been able to work out the problem. Strangely, clearing the error code seems to help for a while.

I returned to the original thread,  by Scotty NM35,  to read the history from 2009  , but the external   links either produce a 404 error, or the info is gone.

A popular diagnostic  unit I read about  out was a  FIXD engine health tool but it seems from the comments of the forum , the NM35 is an odd setup for OBDII diagnostics and its hit or miss if the particular brand works.

If I get a unit, I need to be able to reset  the codes and know what each code means.

Thanks in advance  Any information much appreciated.

 

[Really stumped .Cam angle sensor replaced but car still stalls]

18 minutes ago, ossy said:

My NA R33 used to have most of the same issues you listed and was waaay slower than it should be but I had a couple of faults all together causing this. Weirdly it didnt show an engine management light or any codes though. Possibly some things for you to look at...

 

First of all I did a compression test for the peace of mind and so I'm not wasting money, which was all good.

The AFM was faulty (wires were corroded) so replaced with another one and fuel pump was also buggered, which was leaking inside the tank so I upgraded to a 255 walbro. 

The TPS and IACV needed cleaning and adjusting.

Also the timing was out (originally thought it was the CAS also) and was all over the place when plugged in... The timing belt itself and tensioners were in a bad state so had a timing belt kit done. Runs spot on now, no problems at all and has all the lost power back.

Thanks for the info

[Really stumped .Cam angle sensor replaced but car still stalls]

1 hour ago, SteveL said:

All R32/R33/R34 models have a comprehensive fault code mapping system, which is actually simple to check - do a search.    Fault code check is always the first thing to do.   If the original CAS had been faulty it would likely have tripped error code 11 (universal for all R32/R33/R34 models, I believe).      Replacing the CAS didn't fix the problem suggests there was no error code (CAS OK) and makes me wonder whether they've been checked properly.

I will go back and verify with mechanic  about error codes

[Really stumped .Cam angle sensor replaced but car still stalls]

I have a thermal  camera. 

How do I know a fault from normal operation ?

Thanks

[Really stumped .Cam angle sensor replaced but car still stalls]

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Have you checked ecu fault codes? 

Could be iginotor getting hot, fuel pump failing. 

Go through proper diagnosis before throwing parts at it. 

 

 

 Thanks robbo,

Yes ECU checked but The age of the car means the ECU doesn't

provide a comprehensive a examination .Fuel pump replaced 5 years ago, however the problem is intermittent.

Wouldn't a fuel pump tend to be more regular with problems .

I thought may have had a fuel problem as well ,so have been using  Fuel doctor.

Ignition coils  replaced with spitfires about 40k ago 

 

No doubt these are legitimate areas to focus on.

Other comments welcome

thanks

[Really stumped .Cam angle sensor replaced but car still stalls]

My professional  mechanic who is very enthusiastic about my 1996  RB 25 skyline ER 33 2500cc naturally aspirated engine

The car has done 280000 km.

The motor stops randomly  at times and infrequently. Maybe once a week,once every 3 weeks of short city driving ,

after 100 km of continuous driving or after just  10 km driving!!!

 

My mechanic cant determine the problem  He seems very knowledgable about this vehicle and has one of his own.

He  is a manager at an auto shop.

No rhyme, reason or pattern  why  this problem will occur .

Although the stalling never  happens when the engine is cold

 

The stalling tends to happen more often at the traffic lights when having braked but

it can happen on the highway.The car will not start immediately but if you wait a minute or so,

it will start.

All electrical power is present.

 

The mechanic gave the skyline  a bit of a tune  and adjusted the idle.

It had  a standard 100k service with platinum plugs about 40,000 km ago .

It has had an oil change and filter 1000km ago.

 

The symptoms seemed to mimic a Cam angle sensor problem although there was no back firing .

That was all he could think of .

So  I decided to have the sensor replaced (brand new ) even though he didn't  or push the idea.

That was an Expensive exercise ! $550 for the part

Recently I noticed black exhaust but the can angle  sensor replacement seems

to have made that problem disappear?

why would the black smoke disappear?

 

Anyway, how can I narrow down the problem to determine

the car stalling on the highway and at the lights?

 

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.

[M35 Tailgate Help]

Again the tail gate wouldn't open but disconnecting the battery worked a charm!

[M35 rear door wont open]

Disconnected the battery. Problem solved !!

[M35 Tailgate Help]

Disconnecting the battery will never work !

 but since my sheep sacrifice to the sun god didn't work I tried it.

 Amazing. It works and my rear door is fine!😇

[M35 rear door wont open]

What should I be doing to get the rear door open on an NM35 2002 stagea wagon.

Thanks

[M35 rear door wont open]

Any suggestions please?

[M35 rear door wont open]

The rear door will not open . The rear window will open.

From inside the cabin, in the middle of the rear door, is a small compartment. I have removed the cover and tried to push/pull /slide and manipulate 

the small lever inside , but the rear door will still not open. (its very difficult to see inside the space)

 

What am I doing wrong. How much force is required to operate this small lever?

 

Should this lever over-ride any electrical problem associated with opening the rear door ? 

 

My 2002 NM35, has fuses near my right knee. Where do I need to look specifically if there is a fuse problem?

Also the only the rear second sun roof will not work. Is there any connection to the sin roof not working and the rear door not opening?

thanks  in advance.

is there a diagram for the fuse box near my knee assuming that is  where I should be looking

thanks  in advance

 

[M35 sunroof no longer auto closing/opening]

My rear sunrooff has died as well . what's the cause?I would be interested to find out

.it was really used

[NM35 Stagea Throttle body pinout and wiring diagram required]

I have been told the ECU is behind  the glove box. is this correct and what is required to access the ECU.

 

[NM35 Stagea Throttle body pinout and wiring diagram required]

 

Hi guys,

2002 NM35 axis autech with  VQD25DET motor

1 Could anyone supply a Throttle body pin out please  , as well as a Wiring diagram?

 

I have a  throttle body  and will replace the old one, but there could be possible wiring problems as well.

I have located several posts but the attachments are no longer available.

 

2 Also where is the ECU located  and how is it accessed .

Thanks in advance ?

[Oil - Pressure Variance On Acceleration?]

4 hours ago, samuri said:

 

My 15 years driving a non turbo gts always  had a pressure around 3.9kg/cm²,

now however it's moving between 3-8 and 1.9 ,once warmed up. the range depends on the revs .

Pretty much like Penfolds description.

Whats happened to create this variation.

I never saw it at 1.9

At what point is low oil pressure  a problem. what specification or figure is a concern

btw .have had a blown head gasket and bent number 6 corned replaced but this shouldn't be related

 

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Trust the factory gauge at your peril.  It is probably not reading correctly.  They are shit.  Mine reads almost zero at hot idle.  The oil pressure is actually fine.  I don't even look at it.  Haven't for 10 years.

If you want to know what the oil pressure really is, you had best hook up another gauge and take the car for a drive/dyno run.

So the oil pressure sensor is not the problem in your experience ,just the gauge. How can this be determined?

What brand /model after market  do you recommend or stay away from.

thanks

[How To Check If Oil Pump Is Broken]

On 3/17/2006 at 6:37 PM, HR32_GTS-T said:

what oil were u using because if the oil is to thin that results in low oil pressure as well i would of checked that b4 i pulled off the oil pump

What value pressure is considered low or dangerous.

Mine never fluctuated from 3.9kg per square cm

but now ranges from 1.9 to 3.8  depending on the revs once the engine is warm.

I now use full synthetic but surely that can be the reason?