samuri

I picked up my 1992 M35 series 2 tonight so if there is a group buy later please contact me in case I miss a second round. I Is the sway bar at the rear, located inside or outside of the vehicle

I have had a Skyline GTS since 1997 and the brakes have never squealed. Dammn good vehicle and no signs of wearing out

How useful is this manual if this is your first M35 Stagea. (and first Turbo --- My 2002 axis autec model arriving in a few weeks) Is there stuff I just wouldn't be able to stumble upon over a few day or is it telling me mostly useless stuff like the wiper switch has a variable speed? Any chance of sending a page . How many useful pages in total?

My local mechanic said the whining noise I now have is the alternator but not to worry about it. Its been around for a year. I cant hear it when i drive but I am assuming its still there but covered by the ther road noises. There is Only 1 mechanic in town.He has a good reputation.hIS EXPLANTION " sometimes as they get older they make these sounds" I wouldnt have thought so, but the mechanic has no interest in taking my money, so have deferred to him. Does noise necessarily mean their must be a problem? Is it possible the belt could be dry and if so is that something to be concerned about? I have heard spraying tyre cleaner onto the belt willl help the belt. Is that right? There are no Nissan dealers near. what part number do I need as I will be driving for 3 days non stop( apart from sleep) if I need a spare alternator belt R33 4 door skyline non turbo GTS 2.5 litre. 1996 model thanks

Check the details about going Liquid injection ie direct injection, if a kit hasn't been made for it. I am being advised to not go down this path

Power wont be more. Cheaper by a 1/3 to a half depnding on your location in Australia. I will convert to LPG in about a month and happy to pass on any information. My research indicates that sequential vapour Injection using emer injectors is the best solution IMO.Tuning is not a drama in this system Liquid injection has not been tried in the M35 so all development costs to get the tune right would be borne by your installer and payed by you. could easily be 40 hours I am told

Is the small temperature difference experienced by a car in Brisbane or Melbourne going to make any significant difference when choosing an oil eg 10 40w or 20 -50 w in summer. Temperature differences for Melb and Brisbane are quite large for humans between Melbourne and Brisbane. How about the same question but throughout the whole year. Melbourne never gets to zero with Brisbane getting to around 4 degrees occasionally.

Or just buy a Neodymium Magnet locally and whack it on your oil filter. They are so damn strong and could then be transferred to any car

Would a 4 door gts R33 ( non turbo) have the same brakelines?

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Some good incompetence in that tale. If tyres are a big part of an accident would the insurance company be able to worm out of the contract if you didn't have standard tyres?

These 225/45 R18 tyres are my only concern in this post. What can people recommend for an M35 .Its around 1750kg 225/45 R18........ Falken FK452 is probably what I will go for when my car goes through compliance. Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 at the moment is my second option, but I have never used either. I have heard (cant confirm)different testing locations can be more strict than others. Not really keen on risking $1200 on tyres I cant use , if some inspector got out of the wrong side of the bed on the day I turn up. I cant get a straight answer about what I can and cant put on my car from qld transport so I wont take the risk of buying 235 40 18 which is what I would prefer to put on

I think I will....... go........ with those who........ know.And that's why I joined this forum How many hours ( approx)to do this by an exhaust shop ( I presume would be the best option) as I cant do this.

Any chance of showing how this dump pipe will benefit fuel economy, and reduce costs? lets say for every 10,000km Any comments on this I got this off the Interent Sound/noise level will vary with the size of the pipe down the whole length of the system. A bigger pipe with a bigger muffler with a bigger tailpipe will make it louder. But if the system only has a larger dump pipe and a stock size pipe after that, it will stay the same and make little or no difference for power too. Galebanks.com has a tech section with loads of info, even if he doesn't make a system for that truck, his knowledge is unparalleled. If the standard piping other than the dump pipe remains the same will fuel economy really change? I am still having trouble understanding with the exhaust gases exiting from the standard piping , though the pictures posted were helpful. Just trying to work out whats true and trying to learn.....thanks

English is my first language ......I am just retarded. LPG economy is 47% worse on a regular trip I do under the same driving conditions

If a great tune is performed on a Non Aspirated Skyline so torque and power are improved 10%, will the SVI LPG ECU ( hope the terminology is correct) adapt itself to the improved petrol performance. My new Current LPG set up returns poor fuel economy so it will need to be fine tuned by the LPG technician. How then would a future great petrol tune affect a prior newly fine tuned LPG setup? BTW got a toroidal 51 litre usable tank and boot space is still great. Of course I now just strap the emergency tyre into the passenger seat and leave she who must be obeyed at home.

Sorry to hijack the thread. If a great tune is performed on a N/A Skyline so torque and power are improved 10%, will the SVI LPG ECU ( hope the terminology is correct) adapt itself to the improved petrol performance. My Current LPG set up returns poor fuel economy so it will need to be fine tuned by the LPG technician. How then would a future great petrol tune affect a prior newly fine tuned LPG setup?

hi toshi, On a standard ER 33 motor ( non turbo) what % changes in power torque fuel consumption etc can we expect. I am sure others would like to know as well. it seems with a turbo you have a greater option to play around and change the results

What is the difference between series 1 and 2? What month/year was the change?

Thanks. I am aware that consumption wont be the same as mentioed in my post. At a pessimistic 20% less on a figure of 9.1km/litre should have me at 7.3km/litre not at 6km. I checked the air filter just before I drove the 2500km. I took accurate figures on the route so my return driving condtions were almost identical when I compared the LPG and petrol systems. How long does it take the ECU to learn?

Would the above be for all nissan vehicles or just V series motors? How long after resetting to factory settings does the system stabilise to a new driver. is it the time and engine is on or km driven Under what conditions is the ECU modifying the system or does it do it continuously every second !

How does the ECU learn? Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary? I had the ECU checked out by nissan at the 85000km mark and no adjustements were required. My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently professionally installed. These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU. I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem. Before the conversion I was getting around 7.4km to 9.1km a litre on petrol depending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %. Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until january next year. Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion. i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average here, apart from the automatic start up. ouch

How does the ECU learn? Is it through time spent at different speeds, average speeds, and rates of acceleration or what? Is it always adjusting and if so why would a reset be necessary? My LPG Emer sequential vapour injection system was recently installed. These systems piggyback off the ECU I believe and learn how to operate on LPG based on the ECU. I am thinking of resetting the ECU as I believe my LPG system should be getting better mileage. However as I am in a remote area I am concerned I may somehow stuff up the motor with no assistance within a few hours drive. Currently 6km / litre on LPG everything else seems fine, easy to start ,good acceleration high speed overtaking no problem. Before the conversion I was getting around 7km to 9km a litre on petrol dending on speed and driving style. I should be getting only 10 % to 15% worse but I have been told it could be as little as 5 %. Straight after conversion I drove 2500km on the highway in 2 days. I can’t return to the installer until next year. Vehicle - 1996 non turbo automatic skyline GTS Any thoughts as to poor LPG fuel consumption immediately after conversion. i havent run on petrol since conversion as it is a $1-60 a litre on average

Thanks . the photo is very useful