varun_gtr

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bump hey fellaz, ye well before i decided to go nutso on the engine i was already running the power fc with gt2530's. wen i wanted to go huge turbos i had 2 get rid of the afm's so the biggest and best is of course the motec and the motec only runs the engine side of things in my case becuase to run everything u need to get a full loom made and thats another few thousand bucks so normally u let the standard computer run that and then run the motec on top but i already had the power fc so ye. but to make it last and make it safer on the tuning side of things, ye u guys are right same concept as willall i can sell it and make some money but id rather be safe and ye i always chek the knocks, its a helpful also with other things because i run separte water temp and air temp sensors for the motec so the power fc is still reading the water temp and air temp, so ye the power fc does nothing for tuning its just there so i can monitor the way my engine is running. haha and that chik in the pic HAS 2 FULL ARMS, she was moving and i took that pic with a povvo camera so i ye jst looks like her arms not there.

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if i just cruise it i dunno it'll do a good 450-500 i havnt really tried, but one of the reasons i went with the motec is becuase of the level of tune it is capable of producing, u can hav the fastest of fast but be tuned to be conservative. but also our tuner is very very good and is up there with the best but the motec is definately the go, it actually is a classic case of "you get what you pay for". the real life of modifying cars is just like gran turismo, if u dont know much just go the most expensive part and it usually turns out to be the best haha.

hey fellaz thanks 4 all ur awesome comments glad u's like my car. iv tried my best no to go "half ass" anywhere so ye seems to be working ok. ye 0.8 bar its only like 11 psi, im hoping to get sum pumps and stronger ignition soon and turn the boost up to around 1.5bar should make 650hp hands down on pump fuel. these turbos are said to really start pumping when u get them up around 25psi so ye i dunno if i want to go that far yet. boost is coming on just before 5 full boost at 6000 so within that 1000rpm it jst slingshots away the reason i went the greddy turbos "lightswitch effect". ye we should be able to get the boost coming on about 500rpm earlier when we start playing with the cam timing at the moment the cam gears are all show i havnt touched them haha still set on 0 but ye change it nxt tune. the engine revs to 9000 so ye makes up for the lag cauz thers plenty left.

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1992 Black R32 GT-R, second owner in Australia, I have owned it for over 3 years now and im a mechanic so it has always been looked after. Reason for sale, i'v just finished building it and then went and lost my license for 6 months, i dont need to sell it and i dont want to sell it but seems like the appropriate thing to do. Everything engine wise is built to similar specs as the jun lemon r33 gt-r so its rated to make 1000hp+. - Twin Trust T67 25G turbo chargers with 10cm rears, 550hp each. - Custom highmount stainless manifolds. - Twin HKS 38mm external wastegates. - Full custom exhaust, stainless twin 2 1/2 inch stainless dump pipes, into twin 3 inch stailess, into single 3 1/2 inch mild with metal cat and at the back split into twin 3 inch stainless again with twin 3 1/2 inch pipes at the rear. - Custom stainless intercooler piping. - Greddy drag spec twin entry intercooler with 135mm core. - Motec M600. - Apexi Power FC with hand controller. - Greddy E01 electronic boost controller. - Apexi Turbo Timer. - HKS fuel rail. - 960cc fuel injectors. - Sard Fuel Regulator. - Walbro 550hp intank fuel pump. - OS Giken Twin plate clutch. - Front brakes Drilled rotors with ebc pads, rear rotors slotted and dimpled with ebc pads. - Greddy Catch can - HKS adjustable cam gears. - HKS timing belt. - HKS step 3 camshafts. 272deg inlet and exhaust, 10.5mm lift, lifter bucket section had to be modified for cams to fit. - Port and polished cylinder head. - Valves crack tested and all guides and seats hav been redone. - HKS 1.2mm head gasket. - HKS inlet and exhaust metal manifold gaskets. - Twin blitz blow off valves. - JE forged pistons, 8.5:1 compression ratio. - HKS connecting rods. - Nismo N1 crankshaft. - Nismo N1 Oil pump. - Engine has been fully balanced down to every detail, crank balanced with harmonic balancer and clutch. - Engine block, crank and con rods hav been cryogenically frozen to improve strength. - SSR proffessor 18X9.5 3 piece wheels, white centre with chrome dish. - Falken tyres 265/35/18 all round. - Cusco fully adjustable suspension Height and spring rate. - Full bodykit not over the top with genuine veilside front lip. - Personal steering wheel with nismo button. - Greddy gear knob. - Alpine stereo with amplified pioneer speakers splits in the front 6 inch 3 ways in the back, with sound stream 12 inch sub. - Alarm (windows go up when u lock it, chicks think its cool) - Air Con is still there. - Engine is heat proof powder coated yellow. - The engine looks different now, those pics were wen it wasnt fully done and not running, it looks the same but theres more stuff crammed in there, and the car now has clear front indicators, cost $750 and look sick as. - I forgot to add, arp head studs, arp main studs, acl race bearings with oil holes, and the block only has an 86.5mm bore only 0.5mm bigger than standard to try to assist strength, anything over is know for cracking the block, and also cryoed to help. Next step would hav been grout filling the water galleries but its a street car. Things that were next but an going to do slowly while iv lost my license. - Twin bosch 044 fuel pumps with surge tank. - Splitfire coil packs. - HKS twin power ignition. - Oil cooler and remote filter. - Front brake upgrade. The only thing this car lacks is drivetrain strengh but its holding up just fine for now. Because i hav just finished the build iv only just finished running it in and is only on a very light tune. at the moment it is making 430hp on 0.8 bar boost and the cams are still set on 0. the engine has the potential to make 1000hp, the car owes me close to $100,000 i dont know at what price something like this will sell at but i want $48,000. If u dont understand the list of modifications then this car is not for you, no time wasters only serious inquiries. Contact me at [email protected] if u hav any questions.

HAHAHA thats funny, sounds interesting so tamborine is it?? soooo stef any of ur other friends need a ride

*Twin Trust T67 25g's with 10cm rears *Twin stainless steel high mount exhaust manifolds *Twin HKS 38mm external gates with screamers *Trust Drag Spec twin entry intercooler 135mm core *Greddy plenum chamber *Full custom intercooler piping to suit r32&r33 GT-R can be modified to fit r34 *Custom Exhaust upto cat converter to fit r32 GT-R, includes twin 2 1/2 inch dump pipes, collector which steps upto twin 3 inch into sngle 3 1/2 inch. Kier Wilson ran twin 2 1/2 inch dumps so they arent too small. $12000 o.n.o I'll put pics up as soon as I get the chance Greddy plenum isnt in the pics

*Twin Trust T67 25g's with 10cm rears *Twin stainless steel high mount exhaust manifolds *Twin HKS 38mm external gates with screamers *Trust Drag Spec twin entry intercooler 135mm core *Greddy plenum chamber *Full custom intercooler piping to suit r32&r33 GT-R can be modified to fit r34 *Custom Exhaust upto cat converter to fit r32 GT-R, includes twin 2 1/2 inch dump pipes, collector which steps upto twin 3 inch into sngle 3 1/2 inch. Kier Wilson ran twin 2 1/2 inch dumps so they arent too small. $12000 o.n.o I'll put pics up as soon as I get the chance

a point made out 2 everybody on this thread I AM THE ONLY ONE ON THIS THREAD WHO WORKS THERE!!!!!!!!! the rest of them are business associates or customers, and im getting real pissed at this thread time after u idiots sat the same thing again and again, "warranty warranty warranty". yes it was intended to keep the engine safe and is the reason for it to be locked in the first place. but our main priority about not giving out the password was protecting the friggin password, YES PROTECTING THE PASSWORD. that same code is used on dozens of other cars and at NO cost was to be given out under and circumstance. nobody in out shop knows where the $1000 issue came from, phee didnt personally recieve this offer and as was pointed out by her was told to a "mate" of hers. everybody who knows the truth behind it laughs about it and to be quite honest we'r all over it. phee or erin (man im confused i didnt find that funny u guys just confused me) has every right to be pissed, things hav gone a bit 2 far, and from what we know we dont know where the bullshit started. as i said we'r over it, make ur own choice people, hey if u want A1 service send it 2 darwin, we can see the performance car building ability up there is top stuff. 400rwhp hey, they must be good to estimate the output of a blown up car.

first of all about this rex, old owner was trying to get rid of his mates engine and just so happened ur mate got sucked into buying it. we didnt build the engine, we just took it out of one car and put it in another, im not even sure if we did that or if someone else did that. with motecs if u cant find a plugin u just use a normal m400 or wateva, in this case it would hav had 2 be a newer hundred series motec to run that particular engines crank angle sensors and so forth. the ecu was correct, as for the engine, 4 all we know it could hav been on its way even b4 we put it in but on the same note, we didnt build we were just instructed, this was over 2 years ago. il say again, old owners, i had no idea that happend, make ur own decision.

isnt funny that shops only get spoken about when something like this happens, im guessing thats y u havnt heard much. 101 has been open for 3 years now but really still are one of the newer shops to hit the scene we have a site coming along, dunno wen it will be done its under construction atm. http://www.101racing.com.au/ giv it time we'r getting there.

yes i do work there mate, nothing gets by without all of us knowing. phee i dont know y u went on about so much crap, bagged the shit out of us, whats with all this burnout and public phone crap, i only come on skylines australia to see whats new and stuff i only came on this thead because word got around as to what was being said and im just here to state the facts. everyone around brisbane knows 101's reputation, its not a "band wagon" as phee likes to call it, its just happy customers and mates who know that whats going on and everybody knows that what is going on is wrong and are all standing up for the truth.

thats exactly right, 2 sided stories end up blown way out of proportion. ben the old owner knew that the ecu will be locked and he was more than happy to resume tuning. the reason for this is to protect further tinkering to what 101 did to his car, the engine was "standard" and that was the given limit of the engine. when the call came to 101's knowledge they wanted the password, and yes this particular password is a commonly used password by rob the tuner and all that was said by us was "NO" send it to motec. what ever happened from then on was heard by us from zuboo and cambell from this forum. i hav lashed out not knowing wat is going on sorry for that but it is beserk to charge $1000 but us the people who get by hearing it, we dont actually know the full story.

hey every1, its not about making money its the whole principal. ppl do not disclose they'r tuning ability and therefore passwords. send the computer 2 motec get it unlocked and and tune it again and see if it comes out half as good on the same settings, boost and a/f ratio etc. if its not the same as it was then u hav ur answer, i know ben (the previous owner of this vehicle) and that can was making 390hp on 1.1bar of boost running a flat 12:1 air fuel ratio. if thats not tuning then i dont know wat all u experts know on here. half u guys dont know wtf ur going on about, we got idiots talking about countries with heaps of oil, the fact of the matter is, u can get the password along with the tuning intelligence if u pay but no u decide to go bag every1 and all ur little mates join in. think wat u will but some of the fasters cars on the street and andra record holders came out of 101 and the work is 100% quality. u pay for wat u get, pay bananas get monkey. u want results go to 101.

****Tomei step 1 cams for RB26, 9.1mm lift 260 degree duration inlet and exhaust. Perfect for a street car work well and maintain drivabilty. Tough sounding lumpy idle can be run with a standard ECU. Exhaust cam is brand new has not been run paid $620 for new exhaust cam alone, inlet cam has done nearly 10k. -------------$700 ****RB26 HKS adjustable cam gears, done nearly 10k on engine. -------------$200. OR $850 FOR BOTH WHAT A BARGAIN.

sweet man that sounds nuts, when will it be up and running let us know how u go, mine should be ready to go within the nxt couple of weeks il post my results, after the run in, another question 4 u guys. everyone has their own theories, some ppl say to run the engine in lightly with oil changes every 500 upto 1500km, some ppl say jst load it up on the dyno on and off until fumes stop coming out the breathers and then dump the oil and go for it. from various experiences we load the cars up only a little bit on the dyno until the breathers are clear and then go for 500km, dump the oil, go for 1000km then dump that lot but during that 1500 driving to only 4000-4500rpm and little if no boost at all, then after that put in the synthetic and go 4 it, and that so far has proved to be very effective with every engine we'v built, wat do u guys reacon from personal experiences is the best was to "run in" a new engine. personally i think the way i explained has proven to be the best i thought id add it in so others could benifit from the 100% effective advice.

yes someone with sense, with the standard 86mm bore i only took it to 86.5mm and in an attempt to make it stronger i got the block cryogenically frozen but ppl say that all that has done is make it weaker but ye the info i got from the mob who do it they say it makes it stronger and i also got the crank cyoe'd aswell as a precaution.

ye i know, but my engines already built thats the thing and im wanting 2 drive it asap and i may aswell push wat i hav 2 its limit.

i reacon i could do it with less that 600rwhp aswell. i dont need that much power to run the times i want but i want power, and i can safely say that i know a whole heap about wat im getting myself into because everything im doing has been done with alot of thought, expert advice and alot of hard earned money. i'v run 11.7 @ 118mph with only 360hp on a real crap ass tune on 1 bar with 2530's full weight with 2 amps and a sub box in the boot, that day i wasnt even meant to run it but i did purely for the fact that my mate had a spare helmet, i was there and felt like racing. this car isn't a designated drag car its a "STREET" car but i would like it to run fast on the track. the engine WILL go cactus, but wen that happens i will get a billet crank.

well, this car is a street car, driven 3-4 times a week at the same tune. i want it to run faster than a 10.50 @ 140+mph. it will be a be a push bike until boost but i dont care, i want to tune it to about 550-580awkw and that will be how i drive it on the street, call me stupid call me an idiot but hey someone has to try it. look good go fast and drive it on the street, i know im travelling a journey where im going to have to stop and pick up the broken pieces but hey its all good by the end of it the car will be awesome. i also know all about the supporting mods to get the power down to the ground. im basing this cars potential on the jun r33, haha im not a jun workshop but that thing has 2 t67 25g's, it runs fast times on the 1/4 mile and it goes well around a circuit. i have a VERY VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION 4 anyone and everyone please could u guys help me. iv just built my engine everything new but with the existing crank. my crank shaft is a standard rb26 crank thats been linished and i have new bearings and an n1 oil pump hks rods and teflon coated JE pistons. the head has hks step 3 camshafts with aftermarket springs and retainers, standard valves. how far can i turn the engine before i start stressing the crank, we'v turned standard cranks to 9,000 so will my standard crank handle 10,000 rpm.