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jjjDavey

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About jjjDavey

  • Birthday 25/03/1986

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    http://www.auaudio.com

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  • Location
    Brookdale

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS-T

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  1. hey guys ive tried to remove mine, ive unbolted the motor disconnected it but i cant seem to get it out.. the outside chrome part spins but doesn't feel like its unscrewing as far as it should.. any ideas? does it help if the aerial is up or down.
  2. just a question about the front bar.. i know its sold... but did fitting require cutting much off the reo bar? was it a Series 1? also where did you get it from?
  3. does the reo bar bolt up to an r33 if the original one is removed?
  4. just a note about this.. the local bodykit builder here said that you can legally cut the front reo bar in the r33 as it can be bolted on and off the car and is not considered part of the chassis, however i would recommend against it as i modified the reo bar in order to fit on an aftermarket bumper.. last week i had a little accident where i barely hit the back of another car.. the other car is completely fine and my skyline is pretty messed up needing 5k worth of repair on it.. i can only think of one reason why it caused so much damage.. the reo bar was cut! so im sticking to a stock front bumper after the repair work..
  5. my mate was told by the insurance company said theres no need to contact the police.. implying that they do it for you.. but i dont know
  6. The Alpine 9883E or 9885 might be a smart option As mentioned above the Pioneer P6950IB is also another good deck
  7. $1300 is pretty damn cheap for a local model for $900 you will be looking at import duty and GST on top which may push it up to around 1100 (if they use Fedex or UPS they charge a fee as well as the duties)
  8. why not go local (with warranty) I can do the: P5950IB - $299 P6950IB - $339 P7950UB - $399 Alpine 9881 - $345 9883E - $410 9885 - $499 inc courier delivery.
  9. ah i see.. i will check it out.. thanks
  10. I know you said you wanted the older model but would you be interested in a ZX1500.1 ?
  11. yeh thanks..thats what i was thinking.. i have the relay taken out of the box and when i move the button i can see the contacts are moving up and down so i guess they are fine. any ideas how to get the window up so i can use the car? seems impossible to manually move it..
  12. the window is stuck down at the moment, but im trying to figure out if its the relay or the motor.. does anyone know how to diagnose the problem
  13. my window didn't work when the car was purchased.. i resoldered a few joints which fixed the problem.. a few weeks ago it stopped working again so I noticed a few more dodgy solders.. (probably mine).. i fixed these but recently i have noticed i have to hold the switch for a few seconds and press a few times before the window will go up.. going down is fine but up was delayed... today when the window was about 1/3 of the way up it got really sluggish and stopped.. it went back down i tried again and it got stuck again.. now its stuck in the down position. I checked the solders, this time they seem fine so I'm thinking its the motor.. does anyone know if the relay contacts move, would this indicate that the relay is fine and its the motor? or can the contacts move and still be the cause of the problem? cheers!
  14. I found that if you set the plastic switches on top of the control box incorrectly the passenger unlock button cant move ... just another way to do this without cutting the wires i guess..
  15. I purchased a pulsar din pocket however I can't say it fits as well as expected. Are there any tutorials/write ups how to install the things? Ive basically just pushed it in there and put a few screw in the sides.
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