Nabil

Oops Spitfire.... Didn't see that...Sorry.

Use these plugs I have never had a problem with them and so has many other R33's In regards to your previous thread, concerning your missing issue. I would check your coil packs for fine hair-line cracks, which release the current as they heat-up. Resulting in an insignificant spark that does not ignite the combustion chamber(s) properly. Merry Christmass Hope this helps, Cheers, Bill

If your car is still fairly 'stockish' I would opt for NGK copper BKR6E gapped at 0.78mm. Platinum are really not worth the money. As I presume the code you gave are platinum plugs.

Payment Made - PM sent.

NYTSKY... you little adolescent! I recommend everyone on this forum to steer clear from trading with this member. Gave me his word he will buy my SAFC & make payment 2 weeks ago. Does not reply to my PM's and has ruined any other potential buyers as I refused all other offers after he gave me his word. Then again, only a real MAN can keep his word!!!

I prefer CUM-JUICE... Inexpensive and man-made! I run more timing and 2 bar boost and it makes 750KM to a tank.

Don't mean to be a pain, but when will they arrive. Cheers, Bill

Yeah need a set of 6 for my R33. Please PM if anyone has any. Cheers, Bill

I wouldn't buy a cooler from them as its most likely a truck core. However, for my Silvia I bought headers and a split dump from them and never had any issues. In regards to intercoolers, Flying Performance on ebay do genuine Hybrid kits for $650 delivered Aus. wide. Cheers, Bill

Mine was tuned! R/R mode would still occur during cold night drag meets.

Don't be a Butcher Use BKR6E NGK coppers and gap them to 0.78mm & change them ever 5000km Will set you back $3.85 a plug as aposed to $21 for iridium or platinum.

Add some fresh fuel into the tank as in time fuel will decay and moisture will find its way into the tank, causing engine to run poorly. Just to be safe disconnect your CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) and your power plug to the coil packs. Crank it over several times to build the oil supply around the motor. Plug them back in and fire her up! Cheers, Bill

Hey mate, 1. A Bosch 040 500hp intank is perfect & will set you back $205 delievered Australia Wide off Ebay. 2. Obviously, a stand alone ECU is much better than an SAFC. Nevertheles, its still an upgrade. My old set-up: 3" front pipe 4" HKS Dragger cat-back Apexi SAFC-2 Apexi LM Intercooler HKS Mushroom filter. HKS EBC GEN3 It made 193rwkw on 10psi (stock boost) 198.9rwkw on 12psi 211.2rwkw on 14psi I have a PFC now with a GT3071R. I am selling the SAFC2, pm if interested. Hope this helps, Cheers, Bill

Before possible wasting your time and money on uneccessary solutions. Firstly, inspect the hose connecting your wastegate actuator to your intercooler return pipe. It may have a split or hair-line crack, which are hard to spot. At the cost of $5 I would replace it. A leak in this hose will bleed off air and cause your turbo to reach high boost levels, causing its destruction. Secondly, before removing your dump to inspect the wastegate valve supposedly hitting your dump-pipe. Use a needle-nose air squirter hooked up to an air compressor, remove the hose off the actuator and stick the needle into the actuator's nipple and squirt some air into it. Your actuator should open-up quite freely, it can easily be heard. You should be able to hear wether or not its hitting the dump-pipe. If it does not hit the dump, but opens up slowly with lots of air pressure, you might have a sticky actuator. In this case, your better off purchasing a 12psi adjustable actuator. From recent experiences, it would be wise not to get a universal actuator and bend and heat the rod to suit your application. Purchase a U-shaped rod, if required from the turbo place. Hope this solves your problems. Cheers, Bill

cheers mate

That is correct. How is your GTRS going mate, Thought I seen that beast somewhere.

Thanks alot, Lithium

After my recent turbo upgrade I have lost the belief of the common marketing scheme, "bolt-on." 1. So has anyone installed a set of these on their RB25? 2. If so, is there any customizing involved? 3. Do I need a collar set? 4. Will it fit straight on the fuel rail? 5. Will they plug straight into the fuel sensors? 6. Are these side-feed? Because they say they are for R33's The part no. from Nengun is as follows: 16600-RR543 (yellow) Setting me back $834.07 delievered Thanks Heaps Cheers, Bill

Bosch 040 in-tank fuel pump for my R33. Your best price please...NEW! PM ONLY Cheers, Bill

Put me down for: A pair of: 275/40/R17's ($450) & A pair of: 235/60/R15's ($380) Total Amount (Excluding freight to VIC 3021) = $830 Please send me final price including freight. Plus your bank details. Thanks Adrian. Cheers, Bill

With your current modifications stick to a 040 in-tank it will support 500hp and costs about $190. An 044 is external and will cost more to connect. PS. Before you fire up the engine can you hear the pump priming?

Thanks Cubes, shes got more in her...ill have to wait and see with bigger injectors and a cooler. Cheers, Bill

approx. 480HP

Not sure when it occured but its possibly somewhere beyond 5500rpm.

Tractive Torgue Graph in 4th Gear Peak torque transferred to the rear wheels in 4th gear is approx. 460N.m at 127kph Has heaps more mid range and pulls hard to redline. (Damn should of asked for Torque vs. RPM)