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BBGTR

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Everything posted by BBGTR

  1. CE28 18*9.5 +22 with CSC 355* 32 mm rotors
  2. It was set up for track days but it's a road car - Doesn't get driven much more than 2,000 k's a year though. It has rose jointed castor rods though, so it will eventially eat it's front inside tread.
  3. yep - running same tyres and ride height. attached the settingsI have been using for ages....
  4. What width rim are you looking at? +22mm on a 9.5 inch rim gives you maximum flexibility - particularly if you run ~+6 degrees of castor - any higher offset will give issues with clearance on the leading edge of the tyre against the guard liner in the front bumper when turning anywhere near full lock. At least that's what I've found with mine when running 3.5 neg camber and 6 degrees of castor.
  5. Sounds like the igniter module, they sometimes break down at higher revs when they get old.
  6. Bargain, good luck with it.
  7. Needs some TLC after 10 years of track work.
  8. Has anyone got any recommendations now Mick has hung up the spray gun?. I want to do a windows out full car respray with my 32. Andrew
  9. Ah Paul, I remember saying this 4.5 years ago after number 3 was born. Car is still in garage, just no racing anymore!
  10. I have TEIN RE's on my car - they are a large monotube shock where I think most of the versions here locally are much smaller twin tube designs. MCA's are v. nice but $$$$
  11. I've had Racepace TEINS in for about 8 years and have nothing but good to say about them. Lots and lots of track time and very flexible with adjustments (moving between Winton, Sandown and PI). They are able to control big spring rates well, particularly with the valving changes they make its a huge improvement in bump over a lower end bilstein for example.
  12. Given that track days are harder on rotors than racing, you have done remarkably well considering how much meat was taken off
  13. I've used these brakes for 7 years on my R32 (although they are 355mm 6 pot fronts) and have been through a few rotors. There are $750 a pair, which is pretty good value. The next real option is to go to Harrop and pay ~$1,000 each. They'll last longer however I don't think the extra life makes up for the cost based on my experience. Looking at your front rotors in your build thread, they don't look like BMAX originals as BMAX are all 36 vane. Did you buy the package new? I would confirm the PCD with Sebastian at Ark Design and go from there. ALCON and AP would also be other options if you really wanted to go with other options however I'm unsure of the cost.
  14. not for a couple of years, my wife opened a can of whoop ass when our third baby was born so it was back to racing bikes with all the other MAMILs. I will never sell it though, its awesome as you would appreciate with your beast. I'll sneak a track day here and there I hope.
  15. Just click on it
  16. Really nice car - identical to mine except for the stripped interior, awesome paint work, exceptional cage, and a million other things. Although you need to beat this flamage for true glory!
  17. Wow, very nice. The gearbox alone would be worth 1-2 secs a lap!
  18. http://www.trutrack.com.au/
  19. My car at Sandown and Calder (twilight) in 2009 and Phillip Island
  20. I might even dust mine off for that day as well. It's been a while
  21. Some ripper times today guys. Well done! http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?20/08/2011.PHIL.S20.Y
  22. Looks great mate. Now it's 46's or the ocean!
  23. Hi, I've had a DL1 for nearly 9 years and love it. More data anaylsis options in the software than I know what to do with. GPS can be a bit latent to pick up satelites at Phillip Island sometimes. I have the 5hz antenna from years ago so should upgrade. The best piece of equipment I have ever owned to reduce lap times.
  24. err, looks like I deleted my renewal email. Are you able to resend??? Cheers Andrew
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