SirRacer

You dont need a smaller banjo bolt either. Just use an easy out and remove the piece in there. My brakes have been working fine like that for maybe 3 years now.

what are the symptoms of this issue?

Just tracked down a guy in NZ who has had a similar problem. He couldnt quite explain it but the gist was that the belt was stretching and throwing the timing out. Anyone care to explain how this would work? I spoke to a friend whos a mechanic tonight and he seemed to think if the belt was out and throwing timing the car would run like crap, yet mine runs perfectly. This is what he wrote anyway (i cant quite decipher it) "My Car we changed the 360 degree cam angle sensor And I put on a Crank Angle Sensor. Was going out by 14-15 degree now is 0/0 perfect timing. When we put cam angle sensor on made 409kw I think and timing out by 4 degrees. Put Crank angle sensor on the 0/0 made 451kw at same boost"

What sort of spacer did you get made? Have you got any pics of it? A guy in NZ did one and heres a link to his auction with some pics http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=348666328 Cheers

Is this DIY mechanic sort of thing or should i be checked by a workshop? Will get it checked by mechanic mate on Saturday. I asked the tuner about this also as the engine has just been rebuilt. He seemed to think that it wouldnt make good power anywhere if that was the case, but will check it now anyway. I havent seen any other rb25de (r32) intakes with power levels higher than this so thought id may have been that.

Greddy cam gears. Very secure. We adjusted them both ways and they just shifted the power curve. Something is definitley wrong somewhere so all these ideas are great. Im not sure about the fuel batch idea though, maybe read the post a bit more, as its making power everywhere else, so there isnt any reason why at a set point it should stop. 295kws @14 psi is actually pretty good power wise, its just once we get past this point that things cause issues.I asked the tuner about the timing and he said its bang on. Cant download the map at the moment but will send it to Lith who will no doubt check it out once ive got the info.

Thanks guys. Exhaust has no cat, one cannon muffler and bugger all bends. Its noisy as hell but i didnt build it as a street car. Intake is an r32 so you cant just go and buy a greddy copy so easily, its custom manifold time. I asked about the timing belt and whether the cams werent installed at TDC, but the tuner said the engine ran way too smoothly for that to be the case. Will check out the turbo pressure drop too. A friend of mine whos very clued up with rb's is doing some research as well so hopefully we can get to the bottom of the problem.

Gidday all, Just looking for some ideas on a problem ive encountered. My car makes 295kws on 14psi and then basically stops making power from that point on even with the cam gears adjusted, more boost and ignition timing changed etc.Ive added the dyno plot which shows 4 psi = about 9 kws which isnt right for a turbo of my size. Rb30det R32 rb25 head with cam gears but stock cams Rebuilt internals 8.5 comp rb30, all rebuilt etc 3.5 inch exhaust with one muffler (loud as hell so hopefully flows ok) gt3540 1.06 turbo, with Sinco customs turbo manifold with the gate out the housing. Im just looking for some first hand ideas of what the problem may be. Some would say cams, but ive had friends of friends make 370kws on the stock cams. My intake is a bit interesting so have added up a picture of that 2. Any suggestions would be great, but if you dont know, please dont post as it will just give me things to check that i dont need to. Cheers

s13 manual from memory, or if its a 33 box just use the stock auto one (thats what i did). Alternatively just make one with a thin piece of alloy and then get a fabricator to remake it in stainless.

If you cant get a 6boost contact Mike @ Sinco customs in New Zealand. With the strength of the Aussie dollar it would probably be cheaper + the quality is easily as good.

Whats something like that worth in Oz mate?

r33 racer was bang on. i just heard back from the guy who built the engine who basically said that at high rpms they can get up to around 90 psi (my gauge only goes to 80), when cold it can go over 120psi and when the oil is warm it can be as low as 15psi. Just for anyone who does a search. Cheers

Its a mechanical gauge. Just a cheapy but the tuner said it works as well as the more expensive ones. It seems to read right off the gauge, ie it is between 80psi (i think thats the highest it reads) and 0

Hi all, My engine cracked an oil pump last year on the dyno. We stopped the car before it caused any damage and i had the block rebuilt with new bearings and a brand new 33gtr oil pump. Ive now repainted the car and am driving it really for the first time since (have started and driven it before but not a great deal). Ive had a oil press gauge installed. This is T'd into the standard oil press fitting. On idle the gauge sometimes reads nothing, then can shoot up as high as 70psi once the car gets warmer. When im driving it the oil pressure is off the gauge (80psi), and then once the car is warm the oil pressure will sit at about 30psi at idle. Is this normal and what should i be looking for? Cheers

I did mine when i was paneling my car for paint. Im not sure id do it on a car that you were going to keep without touching the paint.The reason for this is that they get stiff and break and getting them off can be horribly hard. The glue is also bloody thick. For me i got a paint scraper and got them off then used the paint scraper to get rid of most of the glue(it left a few scratches). I then tried thinners and this would have taken months so i sanded the glue off instead. If you do remove them, just be carefull and allow a few hours to do it.