SirRacer

ive got a stock bottom end and am tuning it up to whatever it will handle soon. send me a pm mid january, but ill be putting out <350kws

Thats what ive been doing, but the inline filter is over 35 bucks by the time i get it delivered so i wouldnt mind something a bit cheaper. Any ideas?

he just said hes got a 32, so top feed rail. gtr top feed injectors fit perfectly

And cost how much more? Poor blokes no doubt on a budget. With my setup id love to get a ported gtr head with 280's and a gt4088 with custom twin scroll manifold. Unfortunately i cant afford this (or want to do other shit with my money) so dont.

Hi All, Im in NZ where unfortunately we only have E10 at the pump. Buying E85 is complete ripoff and i dont think my fuel system would cope. I recently pulled out my 044 and noticed it was full of small particles in the filer. My engine never gets below half way and the tank was cleaned out maybe 1000kms ago. I run an inline fuel filter in the 1 inch pipe between the surge tank and the 044. I was thinking about ditching the inline filter between the tank and pump as it looks restrictive due to design. An idea ive seen before is to have inline fuel filters into the feeds going into the tank. Im running standard -6 fuel line. What filters are you guys using and where do you get them from? Are they from a certain model of car or? THanks

You obviously dont have much or any experience with rb30's then do you, which is half the problem with formus. A gt3540 runs fine with stock cams and isnt too laggy. Sure a nice set of 272's would be great, but not everyone has the extra cash to splash out on them. In my opinion (i have this setup) both a .82 and 1.06 housing are fine on an rb30.

This is probably a bit late in the piece but ive had both a .82 and 1.06 setup on my rb30. The spool time difference is so negligable that id reccomend the 1.06 every time. The .82 was snappy and use to make the car wheelspin everywhere, whereas the 1.06 comes on more progressively. I havent had them dynoed back to back as the car cracked the oil pump on the dyno but will in the next few months. By the way, get a better turbo manifold, bigger wastegate and think about mounting the gate out the exhaust housing. I spent ages trying to get my boost control perfect and in the end put a 48mm Turbosmart gate out the housing. Boost control is perfect now. Should have done it earlier. Engine specs rb30det with 32 head cam gears with performance springs valve springs sinco customs manifold (similar to 6boost) link ecu mitsi evo 3 coils running wasted spark 8.5 compression - standard rebuild 310kws on the old housing at 18psi

Hi, Im painting my laufiro at the moment and want to remove the rear door handles. I cant figure out how to do it though as i cant get hold of the last bolt (rear of the door). Any ideas? Cheers

Ive got a laufiro, so laurel front on a cefiro. It will bolt up (bumper) but you will need to do some mods if its made to suit the headlights

www.sincocustoms.co.nz also make good manifolds. sure hes in NZ but the quality is top notch and with the aussie dollar being the way it is it may even be cheaper.

What was the cartridge cost to replace?

Didnt quite think of the map sensor vs AFM but that would explain potentially why its idling rough. Will go and trace all the vacuum lines tomorrow and check the intercooler piping. Didnt look like that but i could have been more thorough. Theoretically it shouldnt be stuffed (the turbo) as it hasnt done more than 1500kms.

The cracked oil pump was a r33 gtr pump that simply cracked as the n1 ones do. I had the car on the dyno getting ready to tune, and it simply just lost oil pressure on the first pull. We quickly shut off the engine and the damage was limited to that. The rebuild was done with a brand new oil pump and new acl bearings. The only thing i think that may be related to a potential turbo failure could be some crap in the oil blocking the hose. The hose, however is a -6 one so its pretty big and would take a lot to clog. Id be very keen if it was a loose hose somewhere, however then the car would idle poorly wouldnt it? Ive had intercooler hoses come off before and the car barely runs. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Beer Baron- will this stop the turbo boosting really at all? Ive had plenty of hoses come off and the turbo still boosts. The intercooler/wastegate hoses are definitley connected tight. Boost was around 15psi when i had my issue. Whats a replacement cartridge worth?

My rb30 has recently been rebuilt due to a cracked oil pump. Engine was running fine today (has maybe run an hour since rebuild) and then i got a bang (backfire sort of noise) when driving it on boost. From there on the turbo didnt seem to spool, bov didnt work etc and boost wouldnt register on the gauge. The turbo is a 3540r from GCG. The engine still seems to run fine, however im not getting any boost. I dont have any black smoke at all from the exhaust (indicating oil) and when i took the air filter off to turbo spun freely. It spun almost too freely. Any ideas, or do you think i should pull it off and check it physically? The vacuum hoses could probably be a smaller size, however when i first drove it down the road it went well, so im certain its not them. All other hoses seem to be installed fine. Some ideas would be great on the likely symptoms of a turbo failure. If so, what do you think it is likely to be, and how can i fix it?> Cheers Byron

I had a Gizzmo IBC mounted in my car (Cefiro with rb30det). It wouldnt hold boost no matter what happened. It cost me an arm and a leg refabricating manifolds etc as thats what I thought the problem was. In the end i mounted the 48mm wastegate straight off the exhaust housing (1.06 3540) and it was still open boosting. I got in contact with Ray who was really good and tried a number of tests and still couldnt fix the problem. He promised me a new one but the NZ rep just pissed me around for months so i gave up. I ended up taking the car to get tuned anyway. I unplugged the Gizzmo unit and plugged the same solinoid into the Link Ecu and it worked fine. So if you have an interesting setup perhaps its the controller. Ray was good to deal with but his NZ rep isnt doing his company any favours at all. Shame the product didnt work though.

Anyone else got any ideas?

Those are actually part of the loom and are sitting around the alternator area.

I ran a Gizzmo EBC and even with the gate out the exhaust housing it would still spike. I plugged the solinoid into my Link and it held boost perfectly to 15psi.

My engine cracked an oil pump a few months ago, and ive recently just had it back from the engine builder. I removed the engine quite a while ago, and cant for the life of me figure out where some of these plugs go. The engine is an rb30det (r32 head) in a Cefiro, but should be pretty similar to anything r32 or perhaps even r33. Any advice on what goes where would be much appreciated. Cheers Oh i also managed to break the power steering plug, however my understanding is that the light just wont work, which im not worried about.

Hi Sapphire, You are bang on with quite a few points, but half the fun of this system has been building the whole thing myself and learning as i went. A box like that will also look different on the tower rather than a few speaker pods which everyone else does. Good quality tower pods (Wet Sounds) are well over 1.5k and i figure the speaker system ive got here will be around 700 by the time im done so its a bit of a budget build. I've recently gone back to uni so dont quite have the cash i use to spend on stuff. Things are always going to be better when you pay a pro to do it, but i enjoy the learning aspect of things. The 6.5's have their own sealed air space, however at present the 6x9's dont. Once the box is done i will see how it sounds before potentially seperating them. The box will only weigh 20kgs once done so im not too converned about the weight either. Im 95kgs and a mate is 90 and the tower can hold both of us at once. The fact its going to be used in the open is the reason im not too concerned about seperating the box, number of speakers etc. Thats also half the reason i brought Sony speakers when i really wanted Soundstream Tarantula gear. To also be honest, the box and number of speakers is sort of for show as well. With the connection, if im connecting the wire from the amp into the speakers with clips similar to the ones provided in the packet (im using a better wire), how there will i t the next lot of wire for the second speaker?

Thanks for all the comments. I used to have a setup in a car of the Pioneer Kevlar speakers run off an amp and to be honest despite them being great quality speakers, i hated the sound of them. To my untrained ears id rather a set of 6.5's and a set of 6x9's in the rear with a 10 inch sub. I read a bit article about how the 6x9 shape doesnt produce a "true sound" however in the open air its not going to matter, and in a car i cant tell anyway. So basically with the 6x9's i wanted something with a bit of bass that could crank a hell of lot of sound as ive got a 350chev to contend with noise wise. These would fire out the back compartment of the boat, and the 6.5's would fire down into the cabin for the driver/passenger. I would adjust these with the fader on the deck. There will be a 12 and then 4 more in boat marine speakers. When you guys tee into the piece of existing wire how would you reccomend doing it. Making a cut to expose the wire, and then wrapping and soldering the next wire piece in there, then coated with heat shrink??? Pics of boat to get an idea of tower height, and speaker box facing upwards (this would be facing down in the boat. Cheers

Hi Bundy, Any pics of this? Would be keen to have a look.

Thanks for the post. Its for a wakeboard boat that only sees fresh water so im not too worried about corrosion. Water getting into the speakers perhaps..... Is there likely to be any loss in power when i make the joins to split the speakers? How would you reccomend doing this as well? I was concerned about the first speaker getting all the power seeing as its the first from the amp, with the second speaker missing out somewhat.

Hi there, Im wiring up a speaker system for the tower of my boat. Im looking to just use one amp for simplicity and to keep costs down. I have a Rockford Fosgate Amp that produces 50wrms @ 4 ohms /4 channels. The amp will produce 100wrms at 2 ohms / 4 channels. The system on my boat has 4 6x9 speakers facing outwards and 4 6.5 speakers facing downwards into the cabin. The speakers are good quality Sony 3 ways (6.5's) and 4 ways (6x9's). I presume that I will need to run a set of each of the 6x9s off one channel, the other off the other, and vice versa with the 6.5's. My question really is, to run these speakers at 2 ohm do i have to run a seperate cable for each set of speakers from the amp? The reason for this is that because of the distance of the wiring , im hoping to save on cable. Would each channel then be getting 100wrms so each speaker effectively gets 50wrms. Bit new to this, so any help would be great. Diagrams would be wicked as well. Cheers

my car didnt have a factory gauge yet the factory light saved my engine from grenading really big time. my oil pump cracked (33gtr pump with a crank collar on a 30det) and the oil light picked up the pressure drop before the tuner noticed any noise through his knock headphones. we got it shut off etc before there are even any marks on the bearings. will be installing one now however. what brands are best?