SirRacer

its been posted up here a few times that all you need to do to make an rb25det one work on an rb20det is swap the 2 injector grounds. ive got the pinouts here and have looked at all 3 , rb20,25,26 and its the easiest to do. from memory the 25standard ecu had a pin for a boost control however i dont see why you would need it anyone running aftermarket ecu

the repco ones have a lifetime guarantee so thats not a problem i plan on running 350rwkws on a rb30na one so will keep everyone posted on how it goes

hey there, my setup will be very very similar to yours but im going to run more boost and some giggle gas for good measure ill let you know how it goes. wont be put together for a few more months but have most of the parts now. wind up the boost, come on you know you want to

hey thanks for all the help, its been great so ill need to either run a bigger pump than an 044 (is there bigger?) or a seperate pump that could tap into the main pumps return??? do you mind posting a list of bits i need including switches so i know what to buy. when mounting the second pump if i go down that route where should i mount it? will the foggers be the same on this setup thats been run on a v8? (i realise ill need new jets). im glad you have been there done that also with a single fogger as that will be easier installation wise. when i go for my warrant can i presume taking the nos lines out and extra fuel line will be find and just screwing something into the fogger hole??

cheers, its this part number 714568-2 and the comp cover is the .70 i just wasnt sure where to look as they arent labeled gt3540r on the garrett site anymore. cheers

I really wanted a t66 but have been offered a gt3540r 0.82 at a great price so am going to go with it. What i want to know is how im going to identify the turbo as from what i know the compressor housing and exh is similar one most of the other similar sized garrett turbos. Any information would be great. Have done a big search but come up with nothing.

the t25 is a tiny turbo designed for lawnmowers/chainsaws etc but unfortunately nissan brought them instead and put them on ca18's and sr20 redtops they are small and crap,and a t28 is only a small upgrade. a t3 from an rb25 is a much better turbo.

nice piping install. mine should look rather similar as im using a similar size turbo and the q45 also. the piping over the rocker cover looks to be a great idea how hard was it to find the reducers for the afm going onto the 4inch pipe? did you have an idling/stalling problems with that side of things (afm)

i know what your saying now. the ones i have seen have lasted a good year hense my comments. i havent owned one myself but from what ive been told even if it does leak after a year its still good value. some of the bigger named jap branded ones have been known to leak also. that manifold is a horrible example so i know where your coming from there definitley. the main issues ive heard with the "ebay" special is they they crack and dont bolt up properly in the first place due to warping of the flange

cheers and thanks for the posts. "despite it" doesnt give me a huge amount of confidence hah but im sure things will be fine looking at the parts ive got i presume i cant use the reg and will just need to run a seperate line from another pump to feed the nitrous. on this pump ill also need a pressure reg to make sure the nitrous/fuel mixtures are bang on. how will i do the fuel return? so i basically just need to tap a hole into the intake/intercooler piping (whichever im using) and then run things from there. ill only also need to use 1 set of solinoids. whats the deal with when nos should start finish etc. some say it shouldnt start until 3k and finish before redline and somehow hitting revline with nos activated is bad for the engine? thanks for the pics also as they are great help

why not buy one? id be more than happy to buy one considering in most cases they are just a copy of someone elses research and design work. sure they arent made as well but flow better than standard and if they crack (the big brand ones do as well) you simply just weld it up and start again. if the whole poser attitude in many cases that if it says hks or something on it, its suddenly wonderfull and works 50 times better than anything else. one of my cars is full of apexi/hks/blitz gear but i wouldnt have any hesitant putting on one of these exhaust manifolds in a reasonably tuned engine.

yeah this kit originally came off a dirty v8 and i didnt think there was much of a difference between the fittings etc. this a problem??? the engine and nos is going in the same car thats going to be setup with my good rb30det which should put out around 350rwkws. is this allowing the pump enough slack to provide both? where is the best place to tap into also in respect to the fuelling? another question i had is lots of people seem to suggest just tapping one fogger into the throttle body/intercooler piping. i would have thought direct port nitrous would have been the better option due to the fact these intakes seem to have a history for uneven air flow thanks

cheers for some great responces. yes the reg is a holley one(trying to work out what that was) and ill post up a proper photo when i get home. i was assuming sau would have some sort of max file size so i shrunk everything how would i mount the extra fuel pump, just say sucking like normal (will have a bosch 044 mounted internally in the tank) on a piece of plate steel on the floor of the boot. i have read about the fuel pressures so ill make sure i get both a fuel pressure and nos pressure gauge to keep control of that however if im running direct port will i be able to run as low as 25hp through each fogger? in respect to controlling it what is the problem with wiring up a switch so nitrous comes on when the throttle is fully down? what affect does hitting rev limiter have on the nitrous(may have to invest in a shift light)

thanks for the information sounds good. how does the second pump plumb in and what kind of pump are you using. could i use say an rb20det standard pump? do you also have any pictures of how the foggers go into the nitrous and fuel solinoids then into the intake? im quite interested in how you have done this. not worried about timing as yet as it wont hit nitrous until its on the dyno anyway how would i also wire in switches for when the nitrous kicks in etc and what ones will i need??

you obviously know even less about nitrous than i do thats the point of the wet system, fuel is injected with the nitrous therefore it doesnt lean out and no need for an engine management system (back of the timing a few degrees). im sure you know the theory behind it just have heard this and that on the grapevine

I have access to a horribly cheap nitrous bottle,foggers, fuel and nitrous solinoid but am interested in what other parts id need to get the thing running and basically the best way to do things. The kit is off a v8 of some sorts and i really dont know alot about nitrous at all so arent sure what ill need. The engine ill be using is an rb30e i have lying around so im not to worried about blowing it up however would like to buy the proper parts so when my good rb30det is running i can still use the nos(in smaller amounts) as a coolant. I realise i will need the nitrous line from the bottle, something that taps into the fuel system for the wet kit and fittings for the injection into the intake but what i have i missed? Im hoping to run around 150hp through the engine basically for burnouts and maybe later on use it to cool another better engine(yes cheating etc etc). I so far want to do a direct port (into the intake runners) as these engines are known for a crap intake manifold. Any advice would be great. Eg where i would tee the fuel source into and how do i tee off the solinoids and what fittings will i need etc. Pics of parts would be even better. Ive included a list of parts i have so if people wouldnt mind identifying some that ive highlighted that would be great. (The holley pump isnt mind btw) Cheers

most of the guys on here are using the .82 housing

while we're talking high power rb30 , anyone got part numbers for rb30/31 for pistons with a reasonable compression ratio?

the q45 is yellow

anyone have any plans for making one as i dont think q45 ones really come off the shelf

they are 90mms aka 3.5 inches so id suggest no unless you have some interesting reducers

a blow off valve helps spool a turbo, yeah right. wrong side of intake and in fact the wrong pipe also. thats like saying neon lights make it go faster also

personally i think that price is rediculous but hey the economic valve of what something is worth "something is work what someone is prepared to pay" i guess here in nz we're lucky you really dont need any certs etc for seats and sr3 recaros are sold for as little as 400 bucks. my sr3's from an evo3 i paid 400 for, finding rails to fit and lower them in the car enough to be safe to drive with (while still moving) is the next dilemma (am 6'1 and knees hit the wheel)

they were custom made by someone in auckland nz by combining both cefiro and laurel guards together. apparently its a shit of a job so will cost around 600+ easily i have thought about getting a fibreglass copy made but dont really want to fork out 400 to get them copied then loose my individuality. im in NZ anyway so that prohibits you getting a copy of mine

they all fit an rb30 water pump is a good bet if you dont want to fork out the exorbitant price for a gtr one