SirRacer

rb30et bottom end is around 7.1 and the rb30e with the head 8.3. With the block planed slightly assuming other factory figures are correct you can get 8.5.1 300rwkw for extended periods yes is possible. One guy here in nz ran a season of racing on an rb30e bottom end with 25de oil pump with 450rwkws

you can drill them yourself (right down the middle of the stud) and buy a device called a stud removed from a place like repco it goes into the hole and has metal parts that open out and get stuck into the stud. you then can turn it out if they break though your in dire strife as their metal is incredibly hard and most drills will struggle

Heres some pictures of my laufiro as she sits at the moment. I bought the car for 1k in rough as guts condition so i wouldnt have to drive my done up s14 k's to work every day. After a few burnouts and a very cheap rb30, a few blown diffs etc i decided this was my next project. The pictures shown are when the car still had the rb30e installed with nissan rocker cover, rb20e inlet, injectors and computer. It came out later that day. Car is sitting in a shed waiting for the engine to be built. (NZ) Specs when completed (should be about 6/8 months) rb30det r32 rb25de head rb25det (r33 trans) - have rb20det at present but will be upgrading gt3540r 0.86 tial external wastegate ecr33 power fc modified to suit q45 afm sard 700cc gtr injectors with resistor pack acl pistons acl race bearings gtr head gasket performance springs valve springs block decked to give perfect 8.5.1 compression I have most of the parts together here now, just waiting for my mechanic mate to get the motivation to start the engine build. 17x8.5 30 offset rear Racing Sparco rims 17.8 35 offset front The body is an 89 cefiro that was as rough as guts when i got it. The laurel front was off a friends parts car and the whole car has been sprayed in my garage. The engine was installed as a friends boss had a cheap one and the rb20e wasnt doing its job spinning tyres. I pick up some custom laufiro guards in a week or so time so that should complete the exterior. I dont plan on fancy kits etc as they are likely to get damaged and ruin the drivability of the car. It should be good for 320+ kws when completed

do you mean engine computer or auto computer? i should have both, but am in nz if i still have them round you can have them for 15 bucks + freight as otherwise id throw them out

great information, so basically i need a series 1 box with yoke and things should be fine someone has also informed me a nissan terrano or z32 yoke will work im also a bit interested about the piece needed to make the speedo drive work, does anyone have a pic of this?

Hey there, have got all the parts for my engine swap (rb30) into my cefiro and it should be built soon. Problem is i have a turbo rb20det gearbox but i dont think it has a chance of holding the power of the rb30. The rb30 should be running with a gt3540r turbo and around 22psi so hopefully over 300kws atw. I can get a gearbox (r33 gtst) from japan for a good price however arent to certain what bits id need to use to convert the car from auto to manual. I had a parts skyline so have all the rb20 conversion parts from there however the r33 box has an electronic speedo, different tail shaft, different crossmember id presume, is a different length, and has a different arrangement of clutch (push vs pull, not sure what one). Ive heard the clutch arrangement of the series 1 boxes is the same as the rb20det boxes however thats not confirmed. Can anyone post up some info on what id need to modify and change to get this box going in my a31 cefiro(same an r32 skyline) Cheers

anyone got anymore information on this the crossmember i cant see lining up due to the difference in length of the gearbox's and the speedo on the rb25det gearbox is also electronic rather than the mechanical of the rb20det + the tailshaft is also different?

cheers sydneykid another question while im at it. what is the pipe that comes into the back of the engine side of the outlet pipe(outlet pipe to intercooler)

does anyone have any further pictures of the top of the rocker cover and also looking down on the radiator to see where the piping goes

While browsing the net for information about skylines and so forth i came across this design of intercooler piping which looked ideal. A few questions regarding this however. The piping blocks off the oil breather from the intake manifold and also the middle breathers. I think the middle breathers would be fine as i think i would be able to fit rubber hosing under the middle one (barely) however im worried about the affects of blocking the one from the intake manifold. There is also a pipe that comes into the back of the intercooler piping, what is this for? Any comments re this would be great as i think this could be a great way to cut out probably near on a meter of intercooler piping. * Thanks to whoever initially posted this pic

While browsing the net for information about skylines and so forth i came across this design of intercooler piping which looked ideal. A few questions regarding this however. The piping blocks off the oil breather from the intake manifold and also the middle breathers. I think the middle breathers would be fine as i think i would be able to fit rubber hosing under the middle one (barely) however im worried about the affects of blocking the one from the intake manifold. There is also a pipe that comes into the back of the intercooler piping, what is this for? Any comments re this would be great as i think this could be a great way to cut out probably near on a meter of intercooler piping. * Thanks to whoever initially posted this pic

go and ask your tuner what they like and feel most comfortable with then go and buy that

while we're on this topic, what is the best way to block the other oil feed? so we block it at the top? are there any issues with oil riding in the block however not circulating?

so basically something like this wired in between the injector and main wiring harness with work with no problems at all and for the minimal cost? id imagine they would need to be well heat wrapped though. does the wattage matter at all? http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/R1626 seems rediculous that nissan sells them for 150 (in nz its around 250) considering the cost

thanks very much for that sydneykid, top information indeed does anyone want any specific pictures of an engine being assembled as mines off to the machiner and then will be assenbled in a few weeks time

in my experience they all have the same code regardless of what they are, correct me if im wrong however. thats what ive seen the red hose is a breather hose

even though your running a different head than im going to be i look forward to seeing how it works as im going to need to do something oil wise as well im going to be running an rb25de pump with my rb30. was going to aim for more power however a wee problem is going to force me to just rebuild the engine to standard spec rather than the full forged i would have liked sydneykid, while your at it what restiction on rb25de (r32) head with the same oil pump. that info would be great someone sticky this thread

yes it will fit no probs

hey platinum do you mind posting up some pics of how you have supported the cooler piping to the block cheers

the box on the right is a r32 gtst/gts25de box (better than normal de box) you can tell its the turbo box due to the amount of ribbing on the box (others dont have half as much) and the red hose on top

that guide is an absolute treat so top work for that is the quality of the fuel supply affected by the lack of a sock filter at all? and what is this one way valve i will need to get (does anyone have a link) cheers

does anyone have instructions on installing the 044 into the stock fuel tank just interested as ill be doing one soon. do you still use the fuel pickup as id imagine they dont have one due to being designed as an external

im a great fan of search so dug up this thread i want to build a fuel system capable of 350+kws at the wheels the car will be used for burnouts and the occasional bit of drag racing will i need to run a rb20det fuel pump feeding into a surge tank then something like an 044 from there or will the 040 in tank suffice. i would also hard wire the feeder pump. what size lines would i also need? ideally id like to keep the boot room but dont want to run out of fuel.

Using an rb26dett loom on an rb25de (r33 head) the differences are (will post up later difference between rb20det but rb25 is easier) Differences * Wastegate valve control solonoid (dont see why u wont need it anyway) * AFM Ground (wire afm in parallel and would be fine or dejetro) * AFM Intake sensor front (depending on what one you use you could run 2 or wire as above, i think the 26 expects a different air temp sensor though) * Intake air temp sensor * Throttle valve switch (dont have a clue what this is but affects r32 also) * Fuel pump terminal control output 1 * Fuel pump terminal control output 2 * Sub electrical fan relay r32 rb25de(Loom is basically same as rb20det, however rb20 has a fuel control terminal volt control output and FICD solenoid input signal. rb20/25de (r32) with r33 rb25 computer Differences * FICD solenoid input signal (not used by r33 computer or rb20det loom) * Swapping of injectors to suit loom 112 & 114 * Throttle valve switch (isnt on r33 loom) r33 rb25de loom is the same as rb25det some things we may need to clarify( i think they are for the slushbox) so power fc wont support them anyway * Throttle sensor output signal (Says to A/T C/U) * Throttle valve switch power supply * Intake air output signal (Says to A/T C/U) * Engine A/T control input signal

Using an rb26dett loom on an rb25de (r33 head) the differences are Differences * Wastegate valve control solonoid (dont see why u wont need it anyway) * AFM Ground (wire afm in parallel and would be fine or dejetro) * AFM Intake sensor front (depending on what one you use you could run 2 or wire as above, i think the 26 expects a different air temp sensor though) * Intake air temp sensor * Throttle valve switch (dont have a clue what this is but affects r32 also) * Fuel pump terminal control output 1 * Fuel pump terminal control output 2 * Sub electrical fan relay r32 rb25de(Loom is basically same as rb20det, however rb20 has a fuel control terminal volt control output and FICD solenoid input signal. rb20/25de (r32) with r33 rb25 computer Differences * FICD solenoid input signal (not used by r33 computer or rb20det loom) * Swapping of injectors to suit loom 112 & 114 * Throttle valve switch (isnt on r33 loom) r33 rb25de loom is the same as rb25det some things we may need to clarify( i think they are for the slushbox) so power fc wont support them anyway * Throttle sensor output signal (Says to A/T C/U) * Throttle valve switch power supply * Intake air output signal (Says to A/T C/U) * Engine A/T control input signal