SirRacer

what are teh camtechs worth?

Ive got a G3 with the older style link boost control software. Even that holds boost incredibly well. Day and night difference over the gizzmo controller that i unplugged the solinoid from!

For information sake, my seat of the pants o meter seems to think there isnt really a huge deal between the .82 and 1.06 housing lag wise on a rb30/25. I changed from the .82 to the 1.06 housing and while boost didnt spool as early, it was annoying undrivable. I actually prefer the fact it kicks in a bit more. I would love to give you some comparible dyno numbers but unfortunately my engine lost all oil pressure while i was getting the 1.06 turbo tuned. When its fixed, ill post up some comparisons

Mine was built by an engine reconditioner, however im not too sure now how good the job was. My engine has ACL race bearings with stock crank. I replaced the release bearing the week prior due to it being noisey, however i think that was more a problem with the engine sitting for quite sometime. Your comments are pretty interesting though and certainly could be bang on for my setup. Will let you know once its out.

Cheers guys, havent done it for a while so will get into it in the next few days. Dropped an auto box and engine out a wee while ago and just thought id let the oil ooze out. Turned into a massive headache so good to remember to do this. Do you guys remove turbo manifolds etc, or just take the whole thing in one go? Whats the best mounting point you use also?

My engine was about 2000 kms old and i had an r33 gtr pump in there. Weird one for sure.

how high are you guys lifting your cars that do engine and gearbox in one go?

Looking forward to how you are getting on mate as ive just had the same problem with my engine. My engine on the dyno recently lost all oil pressure and now reads nothing. Will be pulling in a few days with a hope to finding out what the issue is.

My engine has had some issues and now doesnt have any oil pressure. I havent removed the engine for a few years so am going to have a go at the task in the next few days in my garage. I have an engine hoist and jack etc, but was interested in what most of you guys found easier (with limited tools), either ripping the engine alone, or taking the gearbox with it. My concern was being able to get the car high enough to get the angle needed to get the engine and box out, or potentially getting the top bellhousing bolts. Wouldnt mind taking the turbo etc out at all the same time without having to do it first. Engine is an rb30det with 25t box in a cefiro. Any ideas would be great. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. Im in New Zealand so have no idea where i would do this. What is wrong with taking off the sump to check and what is likely to have happened to my engine if this is the case? Is it a case of throwing in new big ends fixing the oil pump and collar etc and going again from there??? If the gear is cracked will this cause no oil pressure at all? The engine was rebuilt a max of 2000kms ago with a new crank collar and 33gtr oil pump so im quite suprised this may be the issue. Keen to ideas though so thanks heaps. Would a seal cause no pressure at all????? Sounds unlikely but will let you know.

Took my rb30 in for a tune today and on the second run the check engine light came up. I dont have an oil pressure gauge on the car so we put on one and its showing no oil pressure at all. The tuner said he didnt hear any knocking noises what so ever and typically with a big end there will be pressure. We are thinking perhaps the crank collar is slipping inside the oil pump (rb30 crank with collar and 33 gtr pump) or perhaps the oil pickup has rattled loose? Have yet to go and get the car and rip it to bits, but would be keen to get any ideas? Thanks

Hi Trent, Will keep playing with it. I dont think a 48mm gate out of the exhaust housing is likely to boost creep under any circumstances really. Duty is set to 10% with gain now set at 0.

Getting heaps of boost is easy, its holding it that seems to be the problem. I think doing by the sounds of that that my solinoid may be buggered or perhaps ive got a controller fault. Are the MSIBC's any better than the IBC's??? I know they have more features, but i was under the impression they have the same control. Here are some pictures anyone of how i have it mounted. The line coming from the left of the T piece by the solinoid goes into the intercooler piping.

Sorry, have done some testing now with the gain set to 0 and the hard still wont hold a set figure. Ray has given me a test to do with a syringe, but what else am i likely to have problem wise?

Got hall and Carter mixed up. I emailed the Aussie link and got a responce from Ray straight away which is great. Good to know your gain levels are much lower as that seems to be the issue then. I will drop them down and then work from there. What would be an abnormally high gain setting? Thanks mate

Hi Trent, That would be Ray Hall i presume? He seemed like a good sort in my dealings with him and hes a New Zealander as am I. Half the reason i brought the product was his support is supposed to be very good. That said my email to the NZ guys has gone unanswered for quite a while. I thought the MSIBC was no better control wise, just had more features???? The IBC would maybe be 18 months old. I have really just used it as a gauge so far as ive had so many teething problems with my car. Would love to send it to you but im in New Zealand, but cheers for the offer How can i tell the model number? Button 1 adjusts the duty (this starts at 10 from memory) and button 2 the gain. 0/100. Are my gain settings perhaps too high? When i drop them down the car seems very sluggish getting onto boost. Am i better to just flick it on and get another solinoid to go into my link or buy a Blitz etc?

Engine setup is rb30det 1.06 3540 with a Turbosmart 48mm gate mounted out of the exhaust housing. On spring pressure (15psi) the gate holds boost perfectly with perhaps 1psi creep maximum. Ive now installed a Gizzmo IBC and now find that even with the gain on minimum setting and duty on 35/100 im still getting quite a bit of creep. Its installed as per the manuals reccomendations. I would be interested to hear from guys running the same controller on a similar setup to mine. Testing extensively on the roads isnt an option really either as 3rd gear traction isnt too good, and i really dont want to be revving out fourth gear on the roads. Will be taking it for a tune in a few weeks, but would rather get this solved first as otherwise ill buy teh same solinoid and hook it up to my link which apparently works well. Any opinions would be great. Cheers

Hi Birds, thanks for your posts. It was done by the engine reconditioner so in all honesty im not 100% but it didnt look too bad. How long do you think it is likely to take me and a friend (hes a mechanic but hasnt done one of these before) to remove gearbox (we have a hoist) remove release bearing and "spigot" and press in a new one? You seem pretty onto it with these? Where did you get the knowledge from? So basically its not a gearbox problem due to the gearbox not being engaged when the clutch is pushed in, and its likely to be one of these bits?

Someone whos a mod or admin thought it was funny to put an auto change on the bush that goes in teh crank. Pretty lame really

Yeah i did, thats the funny thing. The whole car was put together from a shell using all new parts. I also rung the gearbox builder who said it may be the scopgot bush in the crank. Any ideas???

I have a GTR bellhousing on my r33GTST box with no issues. Apart from looking different thats the end of the differences.

I had my r33GTST box rebuilt last year with completely new bearings throughout and new syncros in second and third. It has probably done 1000 kms since then most of which has been casual sort of driving. I took my car for a drive yesterday to try and tune my boost controller and now im getting a whine coming when i press the clutch in. Release bearing tends to ring a bell, however i thought this only made a noise when the car was in neutral or the gearbox not engaged. It doesnt make any other noises and the car drives fine. I run 300kws behind it, however its only ever had the best oils etc. On a side note, since it was rebuilt it has always crunched into second when the oil was cold. Is this normal considering my new syncros? Thanks

i used tiewire when i did mine. costs heaps less than cable ties and you cant see it as easy.

in my experience johnnohr31 has it on the mark. a fuel cooler does work to a certain extend although it doesnt solve the problem howeve insulating of fuel lines in the engine bay may be necessary as well. my car has the problem, however its a race car and im in new zealand so getting it hot enough wont happen too often.

A good start would be to rewire the pump. Having two pumps running off the stock wires cant be good for maintaining voltage. Mine are wired seperately and that doesnt make a difference for me. Also have a look at US sites. Fuel coolers look to be pretty common over there with quite a selection to chose from. Quite a few factory vehicles also run fuel coolers. The DID Toyotas for one are a good example so they cant be too bad for impact damage.