SirRacer

sorry to dig up an old thread, but im finally wanting to install my oil temp gauge. its been sitting in the car for quite some time, however has never worked. i dont run an aftermarket oil cooler in my setup so was thinking of welding the fitting into the sump. where do most people normally have this gauge feed coming from? cheers

I dont know about your reason of thinking, but a surge tank is supposed to be full with fuel to stop any surge when going around corners etc. Provided the lift pump is capable enough to keep the tank full, i cant see why this is a problem. My concern really is that my 044 is highly likely to outflow my stock r32 gtst lift pump. Quite a number of people have asked me why my return is running back into the surge tank, to which i answer that it is to keep it full. These same guys all suggest to put the feed back into the main tank. Im running E15 here in NZ. Is using E85 in Australia causing problems with fuel pumps?

how many of you guys also run the return into the surge tank. i always have avoided running the return directly into the fuel tank with the fear of running out of fuel, however im sure this may also help the problem.

i hope this fixes your problem because it didnt fix mine. im using an oil cooler as a fuel cooler.

where is a pic of this new ETM 100 series design which stops boost creep? would be interested to see, however the website seems a little light on detail

i would have thought there wouldnt have been any problem with fuel being pumped in at such a high speed considering that it will effectively be splashing the side of the surge tank and then making its way to the bottom? what prices are a carter lift pump, and have you had 044 cut out issues before and had them solved with a change of lift pump? and hypergear, do you mean the filter in the 044?

hi mate, care to elaborate on why this may be the issue? ive heard that piersberg do a great lift pump

i have a nissan laurel turbo lift pump and i still get massive cut outs. the local guy at petroject has also told me that the lift pump may be the problem. im not too sure about that, but heat doesnt seem to be 100% the problem in my case. here is his email -a bosch 044 can draw 15 amps continuous so your factory relay won't cope. Replace it with a 30 amp (=15 amp continuos) Bosch or Hella relay (best quality). -run each pump off a separate relay, again both pumps together will be too much draw for just one relay. -makes sure all your connectors are soldered and terminated correctly and not just crimped = asking for trouble. -are you using the factory EFI pump as a lift pump? -if you are, its actually pointless running a surge tank and inline EFI pump, the purpose of which is to eliminate surge and prevent the EFI pump from running dry. Your factory pump is still susceptible to surge if if it does run dry (and in race situations it will), it will starve your main pump in not much time at all = 2 dead pumps. -capable lift pumps are $150 + gst, Pierburg (Germany) brand and designed for the job. -the inlet to the 044 should be a minimum of 12mm internal diameter, -6 is too small. You need big volume at low pressure to the pump so you need a big diameter hose. -the rest of your setup looks fine, you could add in a $25 pre-filter between the surge outlet and the inlet of the 044 as a last resort protection as well, but so long as your fuel system is clean (was the o.e fuel tank inspected/cleaned/stripped?) its not 100% necessary. (it is if there are no other filters on the inlet side, i.e if there is not one on the lift pump) The only other minor thing I would add is that with your 044 outlet fitting you have no non-return valve in the system. That means after engine switch off, your fuel line will drain back through the pump, this can in the worse case cause vapour lock in a hot engine bay and make difficult starting = can cause engine damage and even an engine bay fire. The intermittent noises can be related to low voltage = high current = excessive heat and swelling of the pump armature which will not cause the pump to fail all together but limit its output, (causes shorts in the armature and lowers the pumps terminal rpm) and/or starving of fuel pump under surge conditions = wear in the gear set = terminal pump damage and will eventually stop altogether.

I run a link computer which is exactly the same as the Vipec despite whatever people will tell you. Its a great computer and im a big fan, however having also had Power FC's i think they are also very good. I dont think its actually worthwhile changing computers as the additional cost will be horrendous vs purchasing a Q45 Afm. I had a Q45 afm a while back and had trouble selling it for 150 bucks. That will be good until near 400kws. Btw. My old Mazda Gtx (this is years back) had a much bigger hit than my old S14. Doesnt mean its faster! Enjoy the new setup. Upgrade the fuel system, and if you do change the computer, buy the Link option as the difference you will save on a Vipec will near on pay for your tune. Cheers

ive got exactly the same setup and although i dont think its boring, it would probably feel a little slower than some other cars that have more of a hit. this setup is very easy and nice to drive and boost comes on quite progressively. i dont think there are any issues whatsoever, rather you would be use to feeling a kick, and now the kicks gone. if you have raced the old setup at a drag strip or done 0-100 times, try the new setup. im 100% positive you will find its quicker. when i talk to some people about my setup, i say that it spools similar to a stock turbo, just it keeps going and going cheers

Hi GT, Its definitley part of the problem, however im not sure its the whole problem. In New Zealand here its half as hot an Aussie and I had a fuel cutout the other day whilst driving in rain with a fuel cooler. When i pulled over my surge tank was reasonably cold as was my pump. Ive got 2 seperate relays running each pump. Other friends who have exactly the same setup - the fuel coolers have no problems. Ive got another pump here that i know works so im going to do a few tests and post my findings in a few weeks. Id like to be able to remove the fuel cooler due to perhaps having an accident and having it shatter in the impact. My setup as below http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1062/317023..._b16d645bc6.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/316940..._f35841970d.jpg Ive since changed the relay on the second pic to a bosch one.

I added a cooler onto my car and whilst it helped, it didnt completely fix the problem. It cut out the other day whilst in rain with the fuel cooler. Ive got another pump here that i know whos which im going to swap, however i think there maybe a dodgy batch of imitation 044's on the market as it seems to happen too often.

Fuel pump!

Guilt Toy. What exh housing are you using there?

interesting.... i must check mine the only thing i seem to break at the drags is power steering belts. the engine torques so much they snap.

That graph shows a hell of a lot more flow A so cheers. GT, how did the thing feel? For someone like me who isnt going to use the car for drifting is it a worthwhile update? The 30kws comment is definitley encouraging as im going to use the car for drag racing primarily and that will make a big difference but dont want the thing to be too much of a dog to drive. You dont have any dyno charts do you? Did you notice any boost control differences, as im having massive issues with my 44tial on the .82? Brockas, cheers for the offer. Im in NZ and sending a housing may be a tad expensive.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but has anyone else since done this swap? Really keen on getting some more information on it as im considering doing this at the moment. Id also be interested in seeing how much peak power increased by.

SydneyKid isnt often wrong on things, however quite a few of us have has issues with various turbo manifolds and the way that the wastegates respond to that manifold. My manifold is similar to a 6boost manifold and on a 3540 .82 running over 20psi on a 44mm tial gate i cant hold boost. Throw on a 50mm wastegate however (i havent done but others have) and the problem goes away. This seems to be quite a common issue. I think the theor, the bigger is better on RB's with efficient manifolds is probably the way to go. If if could do it again, id perhaps think of going 2x 38's

Im 11.9 @ 117mph on slicks in a car with me that would weigh 1400kgs. 310kws at the wheels

jack it up really high!

What is also the advantage of taking a spring out of the wastegate as i havent heard of this before?

Old post but im very glad you guys have sorted this problem. (ive read through the whole lot, and albeit painfull in some places is a very good thread). Im having exactly the same issue here in NZ with a turbo manifold i had made by a local guy. By all accounts my setup is very similar to Andrews. The manifold builder has now made me another manifold which apparently (i havent driven it yet) holds boost in first and second yet once the car is in third looses the plot. I was also looking to avoid having a gate stuck out the exhaust housing, however think now that it may be the easiest option. 6Boost (or anyone here), do you have a descent quality picture of a wastegate mounted off the turbo housing?

air/fuel ratio is the biggest bullshit gauge around. my old car use to read fine when the engine was knocking. boost, oil temp, water temp is all that i have

whats the deal with the full throttle switch? is there any specific one i should get? bloody USD. heaters are now 350nzd +. i presume a bottle blanket wont do the job?

i ended up going r32gtst all round. they bolt straight up with no modifications required at all bar the brake lines. Inside the brake line there is an olive that i pulled out. With this pulled out you can then screw in the banjo bolt with no problems. just redrill rotors and your in business