SirRacer

Good to hear feedback like that. The one advantage of more cylinders i guess is the potential to run more nitrous. Whats the best way in your opinion to have it setup? Eg on a button or switch on the throttle? Is there also a correlation between drill bit sizes and the size of the nitrous shot. Have a few small hp fittings here (25hp etc) that are no use, and ive been told you can drill them out. Any other hints or tips you would suggest?

Good to hear feedback like that. The one advantage of more cylinders i guess is the potential to run more nitrous. Whats the best way in your opinion to have it setup? Eg on a button or switch on the throttle? Is there also a correlation between drill bit sizes and the size of the nitrous shot. Have a few small hp fittings here (25hp etc) that are no use, and ive been told you can drill them out. Any other hints or tips you would suggest?

i run mitsi evo coils in wasted spark in my 30. apparently these produce a much better spark and i dont have to worry about reliability issues either.

Im after some information from people who have used Nitrous before in a small shot. Im sending my rb30 in soon to be retuned which should net around 350kws at the wheels. Ive got a nitrous kit here that ive had for yonks that i got for next to nothing and wouldnt mind trying it. A few mates have had success with 40/60 hp shots which is what ill be doing. Hopefully ill get around the 380/400rwkw mark. I will have a seperate fuel map through my computer for the nitrous. Im interesting in whether its really necessary to have a purge system? If not what sort of delay can one expect before it kicks in? My next one is whether im going to have issues running the nitrous (if so what issues) running without a bottle heater? I am in NZ (lot colder than AU) and the car may be used for night drags during the summer. The bottle will be mounted in the boot and i have considered a blanket to help retail heat? Id love to hear from those who have used it before and the pro's and cons of both. Thanks

You aussies can have Russell Crowe. Hes not very popular this side of the Tasman

what front hubs are you using?

how many of you guys have your wastegates plumbed directly into the exhaust housings of the turbo?

the series 2's have ignitors built into the coils, series ones dont from my understanding

The Vipec really isnt a straight plug in as to optimise the tune you need to run the intake air temp sensor which takes a bit of fiddling to setup. Most people than arent technically minded will have issues making the bracket and then welding it into the intercooler pipe.s The sensor that screws in isnt nearly as accurate (hot wire is heaps better) Just to clear a few things up. Its not as easy as a Power FC to plug in and run, but even without this the car will start fine, you just wouldnt want to drive it very far without one (or an Air/Fuel sensor in the exhaust) I dont think Link are likely to comment on this either. It would basically create a big stir with one side undermining the others products.

11.9 first time at the strip still on run in tune. Car would go faster (maybe 11.7), but im having a few issues controlling boost. Back to the drawing board with that. Turns out chassis wasnt bad at all and caster,camber is now perfectly in line. This makes such a massive difference to how the car handles!

I understand where your coming from but im afraid for some reason the full story isnt quite coming out. If i was in the position of Ray Hall i wouldnt be saying "hey its a link computer" simply as that isnt good for business. Antony, im not saying its a G3 by any means, rather i was making the point that some of Link's previous computers have been up to the mark also, and the G4 or Vipec platform is basically a natural progression. Either way its a bloody good computer, with plenty of features for bugger all $$$. The average person who is going to drop off their car to a tuner is better to save the money and get a link whereas the home handyman who likes to fiddle himself is best to get the Vipec as Ray Hall's support is much better.

This is all a big load of bullshit. One of the guys i know through racing here in NZ works on the design of the Link Computers and has for some years. When I mentioned to him about how Vipec is a new computer designed by Ray Hall he laughed and said "its a rebranded Link". This same guy seems to be posting advise on the Vi-Pec forum about the computers as well??? I bet hes guessing rather than knowing them inside and out??? I cant quite see how a Turbo expert would have the research and development facilities to design a computer from scratch, let alone run his normal business and come out with updates. It does seem like a logical step for Link though to progress on from their G3 Ecu's however if you have ever looked at one of them? Im not particularly knowledgable on computers at all but isnt the chipset of the old Link G3 http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...kplusg3techspec the same as the new Vipecs???? Are we getting these responces perhaps because your making a commission on the Vipec product??? Link do make a straight plug in ECU as well and have for some time. I have a G3 plug in running in my car at present. I dont actually care either way, just think people should know what they are paying for.

How do these things rated compared to some of the more expensive solinoids from the likes of HKS etc? My Gizzmo controller seems to use one of these also.

Sounds great. I have an overboost problem at present and wouldnt mind checking out whether its teh boost controller thats causing the problems without buying an expensive new one. Solinoids are 100NZD (not sure about AUD) if you want a new one also. Look forward to hearing how it goes mate.

Id be interested to see whether anyone has bothered to run the boost controller that comes with these computers. The guy whos retuning my car was part of the development team of these new ecu's and said they are incredibly good. Wouldnt mind hearing some other opinions as naturally he is a tad bias! Cheers

Why dont you guys just build your own engines? Do a bit of research like everyone else (there is so much of it on this forum its not funny) and instruct an engine builder to build it to your specs. You could do it for half the price

Yeah ive got no sympathy for you sorry. You brought a car at far under market price and expected it to be fine because someone said so then come and here and look for sympathy. Buy the 1500 block and bolt it up to your head and then get rid of the car or enjoy it. Id hazard a guess and say the rest of the car is verging on rooted as well. How many kms has it done? If you cant afford 6k to fix the engine id love to know how yours going to afford a 34GTR

Thought a bit of an update is in order considering a little progress has been made. Car made 310kws at around 19.* psi. My boost controller decided to fail so they used a manual bleed tap to control boost. As you can see the boost curve is a tad average. . The diff problem turned out to be overtightened handbrake shoes. When i took them off they were busted beyond recognition so we replaced them with another set i had. I mounted my slicks MT 10.5's on some rims i had however didnt feel too confident using them so have borrowed a set off a mate that ive raced on before and are happy using. To do that we had to do a 5 stud conversion on the back which was reasonably easy. Ive also replaced the back tyres with a set of Toyo Proxes T1r's and im pretty impressed with the quality and price. On spring pressure (12psi) the last set spun all through third gear, however these ones only sketch a little at 18psi. I had an alignment done which told me what i already knew. The car has been in a bit of a bang and castor is out in a massive way. A mate was selling a set of castor and camber arms along with a Gizzmo Boost controller so i snapped up all three. Gizzmo controller im still coming to grips with and arms have been installed pending another alignment. Dropped car in also to my trusty Fab guy Mike @ Sinco Customs in NZ who did a work of art in plumbing in the wastegate and remounting my ghetto install surge tank and mounting up my battery. Looks much better in real life. Im not a big show fan (as the car will show) so have yet to paint the boot or floor. Last problem I have fixed was the 044 pump was overheating in the boot. This made the pump cavitate and the fuel supply either completely stop and the engine cut or just hesitate. It took an eternity to find, however ive now installed an oil cooler in front of the radiator with the fuel return plumbed in. Previously the surge tank was rather warm, now its almost as though the car hasnt been running. Next mods are finishing the alignment process so the car runs straight, some panel work to fit the slicks (with my big hammer) and a small leak between the fuel pump filler. After that im considering a retune (first was only my run-in) to around 24psi and perhaps a shot of Nitrous as i have a kit at home. I think money may prohibit that for a while however.

Gizzmo are operating out of Melbourne now. I think they relocated from NZ a few years back?

Ray Carter from Gizzmo is a really good guy to deal with me and was even responding to questions on boxing day about my IBC. Im yet to have it completely sorted yet, but start with the gain setting on 0 and work up from there. I havent spent too much time playing with mine as yet but it still seems to be spiking. I'll get it done on the dyno as im having issues getting enough straight road to unleash third gear for an extended period of time.

You must be one of those internet mechanics who dont know how to hold a spanner but are keen to offer an opinion! If you actually look at how much fuel is sitting in the cooler and the pressure flow through it you would know that its very minimal. Your 50psi figure must have come from the internet mechanics handbook. My cooler with its minimal fuel flow is mounted on the top of the radiator support panel. I could mount it under the car or around the diff, however then im likely to smash it on speed bumps and crack it that way. This was a test to see whether it was the problem. When i get time im going to scour junk yards to find something a little smaller (this things massive) and see whether this is up to the task of cooling the fuel. When i do that im going to consider mounting it in a cut out panel in the boot, but at the moment its very low priority as the car is used as a drag car predominantly and sees very little road use.

I thought that may have been the problem but the problem still happens with a full tank. Because im running the return straight back into the surge tank for me it doesnt really matter how full my tank is. If i had an amazing lift pump perhaps, but im only running a rb20det pump at present into the tank and then the 044 from there. A friend and I hacked up an oil cooler that we had lying around the other day. We mounted it in front of the radiator and ran the fuel return into it. Suddenly my previously hot surge tank is as cold as the car had never been started, and all of my fuel problems seem to have dissapeared. I have yet to test it in roasting hot weather however will in the next week or so. I was a bit hesitant about mounting it there, however if i do crash the minimal fuel that will dump out i feel is going to be unlikely to be anything major. I was very surprised that this was the problem, however doing hours of research on the net and reading up about it here im now another believer.

i ripped mine out and replaced it with a blanking plug. the hoses from the rocker covers run into a catch can. ive seen some pretty serious rb drag cars running similar setups so im sure its not 100% essential to have the pcv operational in that manner. If it is, id be keen to hear about it?

Im from NZ so know a bit about the history of the Link. Those problems were unfortunately incredibly common and i guess that seemed to taint the reputation of the Link computer. Ever since the G3 the computers have been top notch and really very reliable. People do still seem to find faults in them, however Link is always working on software code and upgrading things. Im sure most people with Vi-Pecs would be quite happy to have constant upgrades. Links after sales support via email is rather poor in my opinion. When trying to set mine up i had to rely on people on the link forum helping me with the occasional input from someone at link. They didnt reply to emails at all. That was me trying to DIY the computer myself, however most people will go and drop their cars at a tuner with the computer on the seat and pick it up the next day. For most people it would be a better idea to put the $400 into the cost of the tune. I dont know why there is so much effort going into covering this up. Most people will be quite prepared to pay the additional cost for local support, just dont bullshit the motoring public as word travels fast.

my stock internal 8.5.1 compression .82 rb30 44tial (r32 25 head) made 310kws on a run in tune at 18psi. your cams dont seem to be installed at all correctly? are you having spark issues also? whats happening with the afm voltage also?