SirRacer

you can modify a nevara speedo sendor to suit or you can get a custom one from dodsonmotorsport.com in NZ which is what i did. around 80NZD and it saves all the additional hassle you will find

Its a valve. On an old gtx i owned i used a fitting meant to be used for an irrigation hose setup (4.00 nzd). It worked better than the Turbosmart controller i replaced it with. Ive since gone the EBC way, but yeah congrats to turbosmart on top quality service.

I would have thought 63k is a little expensive but its one hell of an engine that for sure. Its amazing how long the small things take Eg wiring ignitors etc, and i guess thats where the cost is.

10/20k if you do the head as well. Sky is the limit depending on what you do.

This forum is filled with psynical buggers, but the sad matter of fact is that they are all completely correct. Im now joining the masses. My 8k RB30 project is now sitting around the 18k mark. What do i have to show for it? Lots of nice bolt on parts, a bulletproof drivetrain and an engine with stock pistons and head. Most of the labour ive done with friends and all parts have been brought at heavily discounted prices. If i were to do it again id be buying someone elses project. Buy someone elses car for bugger all and pay more on your mortgage.... thats what i should have done.

Been there done that with this sort of issue.... a number of times. Unless you can prove their work is the cause of the problem you probably going to have a hard time getting any money back. If it gets nasty id give them the option to fix and tell them you will trash their business as much as you can if they dont. Threaten to post an add in a local paper or something like that.

What was your technique in doing the guards?

The mounts are exactly the same from memory. I did need to cut a little out of the bonnet in the end as my intercooler pipes stuck up a bit high. Bit of an update: Its finally running! I brought a loom that i thought was compatible however it runs out after trying to rewire it that i got shafted good and proper. Managed to track another one down on trademe which seemed to do the trick, with a number of modifications to run different injectors, resistor pack etc. I plugged in the Link ECU, played with all the settings and she ran first time. A few more problems have surfaced since. Completely gutted but thats cars I guess. My radiator turned out to have nice big holes in it from being wacked around in the car for a while and my speedo doesnt want to read oil pressure. Have since found new bits to replace these. Now that the cars at the tuners, he has found that the crank angle sensor doesnt seem to want to connect with the computer. The sensor was rubbish but the wiring is what is somewhat of concern. Estimate is that it will take a few hours to find the cause of the problem. Alternator buggered (didnt know that one) so i now have a very expensive new one and the car is developing a misfire at anything over 4500rpm. Reason definitley unknown for that issue. To compound this, on towing the car there we noticed a bit of a clunk coming from the back left. Suspect a buggered diff or CV's. My $700 tune bill is very quickly morphing into a 1100/1200 dollar bill. Im not 100% whether im getting shafted good and proper (most likely) but i've left it with the tuner and said to give me a call in a few weeks when it goes and produces a fair wack of horsepower. So far myself and friend have done the rest and its no use to me not going. Bit dissapointed with this crowd as i was told it would be done on Tuesday and he didnt even look at it until Wednesday morning. Fingers crossed things get sorted and i have more positive news to report next time.

Dude, it bloody worked with no issues at all. There is confirmation on d1nz.com on the forums there if you really dont believe me.

What is your opinion on the new Link G4 Storm. It looks like a great ECU at a good price yet no one seems to have really run one yet. Ive got a G3 getting tuned in my car at present. Will be interesting to see it runs in comparison to my old PFC.

post up a video of how the starter motor is turning over. i initially had problems getting oil pressure due to my starter motor being somewhat dodgy. once it was replaced i had no issues at all getting oil pressure around the engine.

SydneyKid and the bloke that rebuilt my r33t both both highly reccomend syntrax so thats what im running in my gearbox. Bloody expensive but hopefully well worth it.

The boxes are basically identical interally besides the extra diff

Hi mate, im in Hamilton NZ as well and have just about finished my 30. Ring Rob at RIPS and get a 33 or 34 stock GTR oil pump. He will have plenty of those lying around at a pretty good price. He should also have some oil restrictors that you can buy, or otherwise just one made up by an engineering shop. Should be pretty easy. I got mine (before i knew how simple they were) from nengun.com. There is a guy pure_methamphetamachine on the NZPC forums who might have a brand new N1 one sitting at his place as well. Simons his name and hes a good sort.

I plan on racing my car at the drags quite a bit this year (fingers crossed everything gets sorted on it beforehand) so ill have to try out the ET Streets + 4th gear burnout start. Still a bit skeptical but ill sure try. Normal street tyres would do it easy but RIPS do them on ET Streets piece of piss.

I know Rob (RIPS) produces the occasional nasty RB30, but how many of your guys can start skids in fourth gear? Seems a little too good to be true really. That said most of his cars are well over 400kws

Ive finally got my RB30det started after a build lasting around 3 years. Its a 32 head with 33gtr oil pump, blocked rear restrictor and tomei front one. The block and head have been completely rebuilt and we cranked the engine for ages with no spark to get the oil pressure up. A comment a friend of mine made was the engine is a little noisy. He think it may be something to do with the valve setup. Any opinions would be great? I couldnt run it any longer as i had a radiator leak. Oil is a mineral Castrol GTX for runnning in. We obviously werent able to get this hot? May be paranoid but wouldnt mint other opinions from those who have been there done that, particularly with non Gtr engines. Cheers

Link have put out a good new ecu the G4. There have been some pretty good results of late in NZ from Link ECU's.

I posted every piece you will need in the thread you started under Forced Induction Cheers

Mickey Thompson Et Streets. Best investment you will make for 1/4 mile. I dropped over a second by using them.

I wrote out a document for a mate that covered all the fittings for an rb -> Gt3540 so your very much in luck. I got my bits from a place in NZ www.staparts.co.nz. They are incredibly cheap and well worth the money. (these prices are in NZD) Hope this helps. I wish someone had given me a list before i started. By the way -6 for water will be fine. I liked the look of -8. I also covered these in a thermal heat coating as well which was extra. Oil Return 2 Bolt Oil Drain -10 fitting 24.56 -10 Stainless Hose 21.90 (2 feet) XRP 981613 ¾ NPT -10 Adaptor 34 - 10 Staight hose ends 23.76 (2) Oil Feed M12x1.25 -4 Adaptor Don’t remember price 2 x -4 90 Hose Ends 43.92 (2) 2 Feet -4 Stainless Braid 10.16 (2 feet) -4 Male to 7/12 -24 Adaptor 7.96 (into -4 90 to suit Gt3540r) Water (Feed and return) Water feeds are the same into the turbo as from the block M14x1.5 -8 Male x3 Block & Turbo 25.29 (3) M14x1.5 -5 90 (to mount into intake) 7.62 -8 Pushloc Hose 4.55 per foot (18.20 as I needed 4) -8 90 Hose ends x2 43.92 (2) From block and into turbo -8 45 Hose Ends (turbo side rocker cover) 24.44 -8 Straight (into 90) 7.40

Hi Rob, Where do you get mufflers that big in NZ? I havent been able to find a descent supplier. Closest thing was a custom one made by autobend in chch. Cheers

was yours just a replacement or an upgrade. id love to know the difference in the pedal feel

yeah bang on, thanks for the replies i presume your car is abs then shaun?

Hi there, im just wanting to verify what master cylinder ive got. Any ideas on what code relates to what car? Ive had a good search and could come up with anything. Thanks