unarmed_skyline

owch nasty, couple of things if she was at fault why do you need to get parts put it threw your insurance and get them to make her pay, that way you'll most likely get new parts all fitted and painted for you, they will sorce it all for you. Second thing, looks to me like you need more than just a fender, as i work in parts and do accident quotes all the time, from looking at that pic alone without looking under then bonnet you may need the following front right fender, rfender lining + some clips, front bar, front bar reo, right hand headlight, bonnet, grill, mabye some suspeniong componets, mabye rad support, repair or replacment of wheel arch. Then painting Thats a prety nasty accident, but now i look at the pic agian seeming its next to a 146 and in a garage it may already be at a panel shop, where you at, it will help if someone has the parts for you,

YES, there is no differance between the suspention set-ups.

ok i've got a fair bit more done soo i though i'd put up some more pics, Interia is as fair as i can get it without the engine bay being finished, i stripped it compleatly down took all the pedals off, heater box and air con was all melted, all the wiring was charcole, ripped off all the fire blanket thing off as it was recked, then i got stuck into sanding the rust in the left corner then did a rough sand back of the rest of the firewall, and then resealed all the weld joints where the sinnifex had melted off (this is where i was up to last week i think) then this week i painted it with etch primer then a standard primer then just a grey coat, i then put the new fireblanket thingy on which i had to take off my old car, the wiring went back in then, all the pedals, heater box aircon unit, the heater motor i left out though cause i need to pass some wires threw from the engine bay, here some pics. what it started off like what it now looks like I also got to the worst part of rust on the car, the left front section of the engine bay, took a long long time to get it from lots of surface rust back to metal then etch primer then standard primer, i have to get the whole engine bay in primer before i paint the whole thing i've only just done the corner, the rest of the engine bay shouldnt be as hard because it will only need roughing up so the paint will stick rather than getting rid of rust. here we go, what it used to look like half way threw then the finished product , or well for now will be probably black when im done, was going to do it yellow but thought it would get way to dirty too easy, anyone got any ideas on a better coulour to do the engine bay send em at me, i havent decided yet. this car is coming along way quicker than i thought it would, unfortuanatly i cant do any work next weekend got stuff to do but i've got the first week of september off, so i think after that week the bill will have caught up on me and hold me back a bit lol

ok heres a couple of pics of what i mean, sorry about the fuzzy one its dark and i was guessing when i took the photo . hope this helps

anyone?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

anyone able to help me??

ok i've done a search and im quite sure its the abs ecu but can someone please comfirm that the small silver box underneath the hicas ecu in the bood on a serias 2 r33 is the abs ecu, all the wires run down the left side of the car and look olike they go to where the module is but i cant tell cause i bought this car as a shell and there was an electrical fire, and the wires are broken,

if you were in melb i could have helped you out, not really willing to post it but if your stuck give me a pm

damn i didnt realise the bonnet was a different shape, mines a gtst but the bonnet is rooted, but so are the headlights so i guess when i put it all back together its going to be standard. i've heard of them called series 3 gtr headlights but i didnt realise these were the same as the gtst ones. you can get them brand new but who wants to pay 2600 for a pair of headlight, i can think of better things to spend my money on

almost sounds identical to what how my car was when i ran my time, i had a pod with straight threw pipe, 2 1/5 cat back, 17's at fropnt with 225 and 25 16";s at back, with no seats in the car part from driver, and i had upgraded clutch, i wont call it stock and mine was a type m or something which is ment to have a tqueked ecu, and i drove it hard all the time, The only possibilities i can think to that run would be, a freak freak car, there was some internal work done in japan and then exteria mods were replaced for compliance, or the timing on the run its self was wrong - trigger may have stuck done a tiny sensor fault, i've also heard that sometimes the reaction times can affect the run time, somthing like if you have a really high reaction time it trys to account for it or something cant really remember but it was thrown around somewhere at some stage. Just though i'd put up some possible suggestions to why it may have run a freak time, i'd really love to know why it did it so i could replicate it when i put my motor back in, and im sure most other people would love to know too, a few slips from the day would help to clear up some possibilities, ie if it only ran 1 14 sec run or if it did it consistantly on more than one day/track.

that seems ways to quick the best i could get was a couple of 15.4/15.5s with mine when it was na and had a few bolt on's, you sure theres no flywheel drivline tranny diff mods?? i cant believe a stock na would be able to pull that time theres got to be something to. is the ecu been modded??

no-one really answered this but you can get oem zenon headlight for r33 series 2's. they were only avaliable in the late series 2 models, i had some on the shell i just bought but they were f*ked so i cant use them, got a quote on brand new ones and they are $1300ish each light, and good luck finiding them second hand probably anyone whos got em dun know, and if they doo i wouldnt ever be selling them

Im going to keep the ba xr yellow colour but yeh it will need a respray wont need bare metal but prob full spray(shouldn't cost me too much as i have pretty good connections with quite a few panel shops) as for motor built up, prob just going to get some bigger injectors and ive got an avo front mount coming i just had the thing perfectly running from my turbo conversion so im not quite ready for a huge power up just yet, ohh also getting a full turbo back 3" system cause i sold my old one to one of my best mates, the mild steel prob would have rusted by jan without the engine being in the car. With the rest of the car, im going to put in some bucket seats in front and prob just re-trim a few things, already got a nismo 300 kms dash and momo airbag steering wheel. im going to upgrade the suspention prob to coilovers but mabye just sk's whiteline group buy. Im also in the process of getting a m sports series 2 body kit, its a rather stockish looking kit just a bit bigger, already put a gtr spoiler on. Other than that just putting a new alarm and new head unit (robbed my one from my old car for my daily lol) I'd love to go all out and do lots of engine mods but id rather have it on the roads quicker and spend the money on mods later down the track. As is i got like 4-5 grand on my wish/buy list, pretty much any next engine mod is going to cost upwards of a grand each. as i already have ecu/turbo/(getting cooler)/ fuel pump/new exhaust.

hey another weeks gone by and some more work, seems to be progressing quicker than i though it would, well i sent my damaged rim offf to get repaired and got it back today, n guess what stupid me dropped it taking it out of the car n now it has a tiny scratch on it grrrrrrr it'll polish out thou, On the weekend i got stuck into the interia and finished ripping out the front interia, all the wiring in the front is out, only have to take out one more loom out yay, also took out the good looms out of my old car so that parts all ready waiting to go in, i ripped out both the heater/air con systems as the one in the new car was all melted, ripped out all the brackets all the pedals steering wheel/coloum brackets dash support bar and the interia firewall sound deading, then got rid of all the interia surface rust, and cut a tiny 1cm square section and welded in a new peice where it wasnt quite surface rust, then i resealed all the metal welds where the sinifex had melted off, cleaned up, then i had to stop there to wait for the new sinifex to harden, so i could prep and paint the interia firewall. I then got stuck into the engine bay, ripped out both brake masters and sqapped the resivoir's over cause thats all that was melted on the new car and they are different. also ripped out all the piping that was still there, then i stripped back and sanded back the top left wheel arch and got started getting rid of the rust, Then the light ran out But next weekend should start to really look like its progressing, im going to paint the interia firewall,l put up the sound deadining, put in the new front wiring loom, put in the heater/aircon system back in, put the dash back together, when the paints waiting to dry, ill prob rip out the rear diff and suspention out of my old car, and the side looms, then ill finish the wheel arch rust, and start preping the engine bay to paint. This weekend is where it all starts to look like its getting somewhere

do a search but from memory there is a place that will do the conversion drive in drive out but the cost was more around the $4000 mark, which is about what any place would charge to do the conversion if they supplied the parts.

depends how much you want to spend and how good quality, how much you can do yourself and how much help you get from here if you havent done it before (i wasted money on some things that wernt every explainded on the forum) you will need a good quality second hand turbo, prob want to spend like $300-$450 for that, make sure it comes with oil and water lines and the elbow pipe, you will need a manifold prob around $100-150 but make sure when you get it isnt warped, grr mine was warped and blew my gasked and then had to take it off repace gasket @ over 110 a gasket from nissan, then get it machiened and put back on for $50 its best to just get it machiened before you put it on for security You'll also need dump and front pipe, prob $40-100 you'll need at least a manifold gasket but best to do turbo and dump gaskets about $180 all up from nissan Intercooler and piping $50-$200 injectors like $100 ecu $50 best to do fuel pump to with a gtst item $50 or you could get an aftermarket pump and a regulator to get you threw till you upgrade injectors later down the track. all these parts should get you going, if you got some sort of mechanical knowledge you should be able to put it together on your own/with a mate if you got more money to spend id sugest the following 1. tuneable ecu 2. bigger fuel pump 3. bigger injectors 4.bigger turbo back exhaust 5. bigger brakes 6. bigger intercooler 7. better quality turbo, not so much bigger but better flowing ie garret or something hope that helps as a very very short brake down on possible cost, plus best to plan for more money unexpected costs, but ey ends up a great car to drive mine hit full boost at like 1800 rpm

slighten pm sent, and suillivan atm just looking in melb but if i cant find what i need ill pm you, cheers

hey pm wrx+mad i think he had a 32 shell when i was looking for my 33 one

lol, love it when year old threds re-surface its gold

hey someone just pmed me with a headlight for $250 and i accidently deleted it, can you please re-send, with pic if you have one, also was after just the dash pad itself dont need any airbags

hey all im in melb, Looking for a series 2 r33 lh headlight will accept a damaged one if its repairable , a bonnet dont care about paint condishion but must be straight, and a dash pad (air bag type) anyone got these parts send me a pm im not in a rush for anythign as the car is off the road, let me know what you got cheers Jarrod

yeh well when i get it back on the roads mabye i should get some sort of plates like rb2hot, or 33fire, or something lol Did some more work on her today mostly the front, I ripped out the dash pad to find out the some of the wires there were burnt which i was going to replace anyways, but also part of the heaterbox is melted which ill just swap over no biggie, but my dash looks like in the corner its either going to have to get fixed by a trimmer or ill need to get a new one, as my old car dun have airbags GRR.

Guess What, After 3 or 4 LONG LONG LONG LONG months i have finally purchaches and taken possesion of my new shell picked her up last night, and i coulnt wait to get up this morning and start getting right into her. So i ended up getting a 1997 series 2 r33, which is ba xr6 yellow. this car had an electrical malfunction and subsequently the front and rear caught on fire Car came with complete immaculate interia cept for a few small parts, all straight body shell (rear quarters doors fenders) No engine, no trans no diff, no front bar now what needs to be done is: Complete change over of all wirering, new body kit, new front fenders new windsheild, new abs module, new rh window, engine change, trans and diff swap, new fuel pump, new stero, and a fresh respray. this is how today went, PS looks easier in pics LOL Strip the rear Throw out some junk Sorce some new Junk of my other skyline. Start putting her together I also swaped over my drivers windows changed over all the boot wiring, started stripping some of the interia, started pulling apart the engine bay and stripp and cleaned this up ready for a new one well was a long day and i would love to share more pics but its time for me to get drunk hope you enjoy reading about my Fast and the Furious Burnt out re-build as much as i am.

hey i got one you can borrow in melb

$600 seems quite expensive, but i guess if they are enkie's then mabye it was worth it. it really depends on how much damage and what needs to be done to the rim on costs.