unarmed_skyline

from what i was reading earlier in this post, why would you want to change to a turbo vlsd diff, the diff in my na at least is a vlsd na diff, with the shorter ratio it will accellarate quicker and its still the same viscious lsd set-up.

isnt 4.3 whats in the standard non-turbos? whats the advantage it? does 4.3 accellarate quicker than a 4.11?

i have read the same and similar articles, as far as a paper discription thats about as close as your going to get, we need to talk to some of the boys (or gals) out there that have dirven with different ratio diffs, probably wont be many in the na section but if you do a search in the turbo or handeling sectios it may have been covered before, as far as the question about having experience with lsd's in na's its all principle in the diff and would make no difference being turbo or non-turbo, cept thtat the turbos tend to be a bit more powerfull

so eug from what u were saying are th 32 calipers better than the 33?? or just easier to fit???

i cant believe the front bar looks almost undamaged very impressive free bump good luck with the sale i'd be pissed of with your mate, one of my mates had his car flipped by his at the time girl friend they aint together anymore, not too good

going on this card idea, just to be different you could wire up the card reader to trigger the car to acc and or on, and then have a start button so you could bypass the key completly, remote keyless entry and a card start up, all you would need is your wallet no need for keys, would take a bit of tricky wirering to set up but would be pretty cool wank factor i rekon,

can the arms be moved closer into the centre? where you from??

yeh i think there was a bit of rounding i didnt see the gauge, cars runnings great thou so cant complaine and hey if i blow the rings gives me a reason to rebuild lol, im picking up a daily driver next week so i can afford to have it off the road if something goes wrong

i think the 160 was rounded up a little my mate had the gauge, ok well stupid me i was reading around 2 things i may have done wrong, the car wasnt at operating tempreture so i dont know if that changed the restults but its ment to be at opperating tempreture, and when we were doing it we had one of the push in gauges insted of a turn on one and a little bit of air may have escaped we werent being very accurate just wanted to see if anything seemed way out

hey as a few people may no i turboed my na in january, its been in and out of the tunners just fiddling with it, Anyways the car has been running really well but for a little while it was running really rich so today i though i would check and re-gap my plugs and do a compression test, 1= 140 2=130 3=140 4=140 5=150 6=160, i though that was pretty normal no probs there the second cylender the spark plug gay was a little out i dont know if that could have done anything to make the comp a little lower but ey its not to bad anyways

mild steel is sorta a happy medium with strengh, weldability and defonatly has good durability, weight is ok but i dont think it is the best for heat transfer, out of your two i would take stainless, aluminium will melt when trying to weld it, i think you can only use a tig welder on it and still can have troubles really needs to be done by a professional but ifg your going to an exhaust joint they will use either stainless or mild steel. ask in the fabricatinon section what material might be the best,, some of the members looking in there might know some good info, spech some specs on what will be the best to keep the temps down,

i wish but it would take 2 n a half hours n take three busses n i would still have to drive to the first buss stop, pulic transport sux

hey im in melb, looking at trying to find a cheap run about to get me to work and back, has to be manual what you got?

hey you know you can always borrow my spares if ya ever need em,

i had my licence taken off me like over a year ago due to loosing too many points 5 point rule on p's, although the points that they took were from being on the back of a motorbike without a helmet lol stupid andyways was ment to loose my licence for 6 months sent in letter n everything n they gave it back to me after like a month, anyways i was beeing really good and wasnt driving but then one night all my mates were cruising and a mate was driving my car and i got edgy and hoped in, lol went past a cop doing an undisclosed speed, he pulled me over asked bout my licence n i said they took it wrongly blah blah told me i shouldnt be speeding and said wait for a court notice in the mail, and its been over a year and no letter, another time got pulled over by petit going home driving my na r33 on p's (licenced) he went over my car checked everything then told me that i would get an epa notice in the mail cause my car was too loud which it was, that letter never came in the mail either, so hopefully you get lucky ey, happens sometimes

+1 afm is stuffed actually a really common failing part and it wuold make the car not run past about 900rpm but you should be able to start the car fine, try starting the car with it unplugged if its worse its probably ok but if its the same then it could be stuffed

Ok, my mates series 1.5 r33 gts-t is playing up need some ideas on what to test, this is the go, car defonatly has a manifold leak fixing that tommorow makes the car sound horrible, now he has just bought this car privetly and got it cheap and i can see why, (should have cheacked it more before he bought it) now the bov is a vent to air type says hks on it but its clearly made out of plastic, also has a dual stage turbosmart bleeder valve, the stock boost gauge was saying it was boosting up to 5 psi and the aktermarket one said anywhere from 2-12 psi (very dodgy gauge it sticks sometimes and you can tap it and it will read boost) now the car didnt feel like it was boosting at all, the bov didnt sound as if it was letting of much pressure either, so i assume the car wasnt boosting correctly, the car was also backfiring above 4000 rpm and half to wide open throttle, it felt as if the car was pulling the power out a bit to but not quite like rich and retart, so had a fiddle and we took off the bleeder valve and put on the stock boost controller, and guess what the car pulled way harder and felt like it was boosting but then bang bov popped off yay now we defonly had boost lol the crappy bov flew off dew to poor design, so took the car back and we couldnt get the bov back on cause its stuffed, didnt have a stock one handy either soo i hooked up a straight pipe and bypassed the bov so that there is no bov running at all just to test the car, Note exhaust manifold gasket is leaking, now we took the car for a drive and now with half to wide open throttle after 4000 rmp the car starts back firing like anything and looses all power as if there is either a massive air leak or theres not enough fuel, now i tryed driving the car with 1/4 throttle and slight boost and the car revs right threw the rev range with no problems at all and quite smooth and freely Its only at half to wide open throttle it seems to be cutting out, anyone got any ideas, ive cheacked all the connections to all hoses and connectors and everything seems fine the car has stock ecu is running stock boost, taking the manifold off tommorow to replace the gasket,, so im going to check the turbo tommorow and rig up a spare bov i had lying around but i doubt this will fix the underlying problem can you guys throw some ideas at me, thinking mabye fuel reg is stuffed, or ecu running into rich and retard for some reason mabye afm but it runs fine without wot, changed the fuel filter that didnt help, mabye the cat is blocked but it didnt seem to be getting red hot after driving so doubt that, changed over the coil packs and sparkies, running out of idea thou

sean i agree and vouch for you it sounds way better when you fly past my house, mmm being back at home means i feel like skyline terortory agian theres like 6 skylines in our block lol, i know where you took that video from too lol, i got some footage down there too lol ill show you next time you come round

hey i've had a few people ask me about my skirts, they are ab-flug side skirts got em from sinnex bodykits in melbourne think they were around $350-400 very good quility nice thick stirdy fiberglass, bit low on the gel coat thou, i fitted them myself i spent a long time fitting them but it was my first try lol, i think they originally were made for an r32, but they look way better on the 33

hey when mine was na i just used the standard turbo intake manifold section worked really well attached the air flow meter and then a pod, easy as to do, if you wanted to know how to make one up "craved" just need to build up a pipe that goes from your throttle body and come over the top of the engine down into a section that will bolt up to the air flow meter in the exact spot where the turbo one sits, and then weld the 2 pipes i think it is, 1 for the head gass realease and the other that i think from memory goes and bypasses the manifold and on to the idle control valve thing\y

mad well we were right, comes with 147kw and lsd standard, standard alloys and standard leather steering wheel grr wheres mine bet they stole it on importation

my cars an na+t so its still sorta in this catogory and i eventually got off my arse to get some pictures on the comp soo here have a look tell me what ya think

my car defonatly has lsd, but its non-active, and yeh i though i remembered reading somewhere that the type s's had about 7 more kws aswell just did a search earlier and i couldnt find it agian anywhere i thought it was on meggala's site but i duno

hey just did a vin number search my car came up as an r33 gts25 type s what does the type s stand for??

hey can you do mine i have i sneaking suspion it was orignally turbo then i bought it na now its turbo agian mm sneaky ecr33024481