unarmed_skyline

well i would rather not say the name cause thats agiasnt the forum rules, but they have been reckomended a fair few times on this very sight, ohh well mabye i miss-understood something they said

i thought the r32 turbo was smaller that is what everyone was saying but i had the car at a reputable tuning place and they talked to and bought the turbo off a reputable turbo speciilist, oh well kinda got ripped a bit but oh well at 7 psi it wont really matter that much kinda better it spools earlier not that it needs it with the high comp

Hey, just wondering what the differences between the r32 and r33 turbos are, i just turboed my na and i had an r33 turbo on it and it had a fu*ed oil seal, the turbo spechilist said the best quility turbo he had was an r32 turbo and that there was no difference betweeen either of them and they have the same air ratios. After this has been changed i've noticed the turbo defanatly spools quicker, and the actuator is set higher, i have to change the actuator but is there any other differences.

Bump pics added

ill put pics up tommorow my camera is out of battery, ALso thought i would add the turbo comes with the elbo and will have a r32 actuatuator with it which means it will boost up to 12-14 psi without a boost controler perfect for someone who wants the car to look stock, --highflow a stock turbo and up the boost n make it look standard, perfect if you live neer the T.O.G.

i got a Series 1 r33 turbo for sale no shaft play but a leaking oil seal suit high flow project $350 Also have a brand new oil cooler with some braided oil lines was on the car for 2 days then i changed direction with the car and no longer need it, bought it for $500 including lines willing to sell for $300 Im located in the melb SE subs

yeh you do when it all works lol, the car blew randomly blew some somke yesterday then stopped after ten minutes drove the car for another 50 mins in peak hour to drop it at mechanics n no more smoke was coming out at all, did a few tests to make sure no blown head gasket n they were negative, mechanics didnt even start it up today so duno if it was just a little bit of something spilled in the system cause one of the coolant hoses wasnt done up tight enough and was leaking onto the dump pipe, or mabye its something else. grr

cost me a bit more to do cause i got lazy but turbo was 400, dump pipe front pipe intercooler intake pipe with bov was like 150, safe was 400 oil cooler was 300 custom oil lines cost me 400, manifold cost 50 then my gauges n pillar mount cost like 400, bout 100 worth of random parts, 180 worth of gaskets then the tune cost like 200ish but fixing my oil problem and the manifold shaving and rental of the ecu cost like 800 which all could have been avoided if i did more prep, n i think ill still be tweaking it for a little while changing plugs the turbo ecu ect. oh havent changed the compression ratio. i no ill prob get sick of the power in a little but i think ive done what i wanted to this car now soo if i do anything else ill be getting people to do it for me, ive installed my own alarm central locking, huge stero, bodykit ohh that was a hard process r32 side-skirts dont fit perfectly on a 33 at the beggining damn arsehole told me they were 33 ones but they look mad, some subtle neons, turbo, oil cooler intercooler ect, ecu, gauges so yeh im getting sick of doing it myself now, ill be a drive in drive away person after this last ordeal

hey all she's all done at the moment that is, Well the problems were that the oil drain line i used wasn't draining properly -- solution move it else where not much hassle there - problem 2 the ticking noise guess what the manifold i got was slightly warped thus causeing an exhaust leak solution rip everything off machiene back the manifold and then replace the gasket agian and hey all working. now all this done car went in to get tunned and the na ecu kept on leaning all my mixtures out to unsafe levels even with the safc so the tuning shop let my borrow their r32 turbo ecu atm untill i find a turbo r33 ecu - the engine warning light keeps on comming on with the 32 ecu they dont know y because there are no fault codes in it but proberly cause its not the right one for that car. all this done she only made 138 at the wheels but hopefully will make a little more with the right ecu and some better timing tuning. but then when i got it home after that the car kept on heating up really quickly and the coolant feed line to the turbo kept on blowing off, kinda stumped me and i couldnt work it out i tried strengethon the joints and i used a spring over the lines so they wouldn't kink then today i was doing a final test to see if it was running and after it got a little hot i lent on the radiator cap and the overflow drined into the radiator and the temp dropped, turns out my radiator cap was f*ked well dah changed that over and put like 5 liters more coolant in cause it was low at this stage started her up and guess what no problems at all running at optimal temps no hose blow offs nothing dorve it for a while then rested her then got her warm and gave her a bit of a thrashing to make sure i'd be able to drive her to work tommorow - WAY WAY WAY different car then when it was NA boost comes on pretty early doesnt throw u back that much only running 5 psi then at 5000 rpm another throw back, ohhh yeh its made and the spool and reelace noise is soo nice ohh loving it cant wait to change the ecu , get a bigger cooler and bigger zorst then ill be settled with that

Ok the cars a 1973 toyota corolla with a supercharged mr2 engine in it. It has a microtech computer running everything after market fuel pump and a vision alarm system. Now i was driving along not hammering it just turned the supercharger on (has a electronic clutch) and the car died on its arse, what happened was the car was still ideling whilst going but the accelarator pedal wouldn't do anything the car wouldn't rev at all. the car then stalled when i lost speed. when i went to turn it back on the car cranks but does not turn over, its not a battery problem. but the microtech seems not to be turning on and it should turn on when the car is on accessory this doenst turn it on, and because the microtech doesnt turn on the fuel pump is not turning on either thus the car is not getting any fuel. i think it might be an alarm problem because the alarm used to unlock and lock the doors and now it seems just to turn the sensor light on an off and the alarm doesnt go off when the sensors are triggered, but as i did not fit the alarm i duno how to bypass it and i am not entierly sure this is the problem. anyone got any suggestions on what else it could be?? oh the car has a brand new alternator as well and the alternator belt is new and fine

how many people can we get to play with his Wii is there room for all of us lol

had another look at the set-up n simons right its deffonatly not flowing the oil out of the turbo sits just to high so it would gravity feed properly. and i figured out wat the ticking was, the exhaust manifold wasn't done up tight enough and there was a zorst leak so that was the noise i was hearing, hopefully it will be all finished and tunned by the end of the week and i can let you guys know how the cars going i should have power figure to so good for anyone thinking bout doing it

just wondering if the oil is building up in the the turbo beerings and leeking into the turbo would the oil seal on the turbo be blow as well because of the leaking?

thanks ill try giving em a call tommorow

sounds like a good idea i might try and do that tommorow

well the return feed is at a hight below the turbo so i assumed that it would gravity feed, i was could not find the factory oil return in the sump and didnt want to drill a hole that is y i chose that location,

just wondering if anyone knows of anywhere i can get my turbo oil seals replaced and get the car dynoed at the same time, cant be bothered goign to 2 different places and only needs a basic tune. dont want to spend to much money looking for someone in the ringwood/croyden/ boronia area

hey as i said in the title i just put a turbo on my na. i have an series 1 r33 rb25de running a stock series 1 turbo. i have hooked everything up i ran my oil feed from the stock feed line into an oil cooler then into the top of the turbo (the feed section) then the return comes out the bottom of the turbo and taps into the overflow return line from the head (located at the front right of the engine), my water lines tap into the heater hoses with t-peices. i have a bleeder valve that is set to zero so the turbo souldn't run any more than 5 psi as that is when the stock wastegate opens. now i have white oil smoke comming out of the exhaust mainly only on idle and low rpm >2500ish but there is still some at higher revs but not as much. also my tappets are now noisy when driving -- this is driving without any boost i have not got the car up to boost yet and the car was running perifectly before i put the turbo on. i assume the white smoke will be a blown oil seal in the turbo but am now interily sure, but i dont know y i would get the noisy tappets the car hasn't been tunned yet only put the turbo on yesterday was hopeing to tune it tommorow but with the smoke problem doesnt look like i will be able to can anyone help??

u still got the fuel pump?? where bouts in melb are you?

hey i just though i would go back a little bit and add something in, in relation to drilling the oil return line into the block a way of getting around this would be to buy an oil cooler and run the oil lines from the oil filter to the oil cooler to the turbo out the turbo then into the engine and around agian, this way you would have the best oil going to the turbo and you wouldnt have to worry about drilling holes in the block, and as a bonus it would be even easier to return to stock if needed

Hey i've got an series 1 N\A skyline and next month im putting a turbo on got all the bits on the bench waiting to go on. Just wondering what sort of power at the wheels it might get Running standard r33 turbo @ 7psi-- 10 if the tuner (not decided yet) thinks the car can handle it Standard gtst fuel system Stock intercooler Heat sheilded pod with cold air intake zorst custom 2 1/4 mandrel bent with high flow mufflers apexi safc 2 Engine is N/A so high comp 10:1 Also looking into what else i can do to try get the car up to 200 @ the wheels without boosting or opening up much of the engine?

duno if you've thought of this but i rekon it would top off the black look if you blacked out the rear quarter windows like the 180 boys alwayz do, would complement it will. also love the shinny black on the interia very well done most of the painted interias look tacky and out of place that looks sweet

what did you want for just the front pipe??

Hey if your looking at what you can do to extract a little more power out of an NA i wrote up a big write up a couple of days ago read it title was: N/a Preformance Upgrades Want some more bang, heres some ideas

If it were me i wouldnt be going anywhere above 5-7 psi without decomping the engine 1 bar is WAY to much you'll fry your internals probably send a piston threw the bolck