unarmed_skyline

Skitzo thanks for mentioning gear ratios and diffs and stuff i totaly forgot to put them in, And yea your suspention, tyres and brake set-up are very important especially if you want to take the car out on the circuts, drifting (or even drags for u straight line boys) The better the car can handle corners at speed makes a massive difference.

I like most of you guys reading this bought a non turbo skyline, i bought mine because of p plater restrictions but im still really happy with it, ive got a 1994 r33 gts25 drives like a dream. Anyways in a search to think of things to do to my car i have found a lot of ideas that havent really been discussed very much on here mainly because everybody just says slap a turbo on it or do an engine swap so heres some things that might help; REMEMBER to always research for yourself what you want to do and what to buy, sometimes listening to friends that may not no what their talking about can be very dangourous First of all let the car breath: Get a nice zorst - there are shops that will make you up custom cat back or with high flow cats ect for relitivly cheep ($300-800) or there are some jap options out there that will most likely be a little bit better preformance as there is rnd on them but they cost an arm and a leg ($1200+) n will probably have to get sent from japan. Also look at getting extractors i have only heard of 2 different types one i think was coby exctractors and they were going for about $350 and then there is a jap version out there for about $1500. Next look into doing something with the intake : High flow panel filters (K&n apexi ect) are highly reckemended as people believe they give more power because there was a lot of rnd in the factory system and the factory system keeps the heat out expect to pay around $100 for a good quality item : Pod filter: now make sure you buy or make a heat sheild for it the heat in the engine will take away preformance, expact about $50- $200 for the pod you can make your own heat sheilding for around $20 or there are Cai boxs to mount the pod in for around $150-250. Now the car breaths : Cam gears give you quite a bit of grunt sometimes some people say they more move your power band around but they are a good upgrade you will notice a bit different if tuned well. but will most likely be ilagal due to epa reasons. : Ecu's are a good upgrade will give you more tuning ability, when buying an ecu you will have to thinjk what you want to do with the car, if you are happy with how it preforms and only want a little bit extra and want a little bit of saftey look into getting some sort of piggy bak computer (apexi safc2, greddy, ect) they will be about $300-900 and will need to be tuned after insalation, if you are going to take the car further to bigger better things ie. turboing, supercharging, rb30de build, engine rebuild,ect you will most likely need a stand alone system, look carfully what you might need the computer to do in future projects when choosing the computer as they are quite pricy $1000+ lighten the drive train: I havent been able to find much disscussion on this on sau but there is a few options out there. You drive train robbs a lot of engine power, the problem with lightening is that if you lighten your drive train too much you will loose some street drivability and effect your idle so research well when doing this. : lightened tail shaft: there are a few different tail shafts out there which weigh about half of the standard weight i think the stock item is about 14kgs and you can pick lightened ones up for around $550 the weigh around 6-8 kgs bouns with this is it is diy only about 8 bolts to it, this will help the car rev quicker : lightened flywheels are very common mods they cost around $450+ there are different types and weights out there this is a good idea to do if your already replacing your clutch as yyou have to drop the gear box to replace the flywheel, : you can also lighten your pully system on this is a good mod because you lighten the strain on the crank and how much load the accessories take from your power, i havent looked into this much so not sure the about the cons : fuel system mods look around you might not need to do this unless you hit acertain amount of power, but you can get new fuel pumps injectors fuel rails fuel regs, you can use any of the turbo items for these as they are bolt on bigger replacments. This is the list of cheaper mods that can be done other options are Complete custom intake systems, you can buy an adaptor plate to be ablle to run gtr hex throttles (6 throttle bodies) you can then buy trumpets or throttle horns to put ontop of the hex throttle system and you will have a really nice setup sucking a lot of air all thought if you do this you may have to get a new ecu that suports not having an afm. Another common mod is modifying a ford xf throttle body as its bigger = mor air = more power or there have been custom twin throttle body set-ups done. Engine rebuilds - there are na parts for builds out there they just harder to find Rb30de build - talk to some of the guys round here there are i think 2 or 3 people who have done it and loved the torque produced from this and then if all these na mods arnt enough you could alwayz put a turbo, superchager or NOS on or drop in a v8. sorry for the essay but i hope this will help some of the guysout there considering modifying there na's NO TURBO = NO LAG mmm. With the right mods you can get you na to power levels above stock or mild moded turbos but dont expect anywhere neer the power they get with the same amout of money, non-turbo are more expencive to mod and have less total potentential

yeh i would love to but atm i done have the time, n i dont want him to kill the car, but mabye ill have to find the time he's not mechanical at all so that dun help

one of my mates has an R33 series 2 and i got in today and drove it down the street and i heard some grinding ticking sort of noises when it was hitting boost, im quite sure its coming from the turbo but it could be the heat sheilding not too sure, Anyone have an idea what is could be?

R.I.P. :,(

2001 model?????

how much harder is it to build up an rb26/30 rather than a 25/30 thou?? because i've been told its not as straight and easy with a rb26 and then i have to go throw the hassels of having an obvious different engine than what was in there, because i have a 33 with an rb25de in there already and so i dont have to but a gtr head and i can get away without getting a conversion engineered cause the cops wont easily be able to tell i got a vl bottom end on there, although the trumpets are illeagal. im not sure the grt head will be worth the extra trouble

yeh the hex throttles are hard to find but im on the lookout might have to get some sent over from japan. im looking at using a rb25de vvt head decking the head a mm sounds like a good idea, although ill lookout for an rb26 head and look into that as well it might give me that extra power i want plus with the 26 head i wouldnt have to lower the engine and i can still keep my all loved sway bar. for the rebuild what exatly will i need?? i know ill need pistons but prob just use the stock 25 ones, shot peened rods (or would using gtr rods be ok if i got an rb26 head) or lightened rods big end bearings vrs gasket set ill prob get a complete vl series 2 engine as i got a mate selling one Computer link will probably be a better option if i go with thrumpets extractors timing belt then extras being cams trumpets and any other goodies i think of. Do you think the gtr head will be a better preformance option?? compaired to decking the na head?? will the gains justify the cost, as ill have the intake on the 25 head ported and polished so i should flow pretty well. it sounds like your happy you built up urs, im not looking for my car to be some all out drag car hopeing to take it out on the track and making it look nice, all out rwkw power doesnt bother me its weather the car feels nice n fun, throws you bak in your seat a bit

i got a mate who works for nis-pro and his is possibly thinking of building me up my engine free labor so he can learn some more stuff and im trying to find some pistons and pricing and have had no luck I have a series 1 r33 gtss25 non turbo and looking at doing an Rb30de high comp build up. Im not sure where i can find some light weight high comp pistons thou can anyone help me?? hoping for a nice built up, thinking of high comp engine 3lt bottom end, pfc, cams, mabye light weight rods, most likely hex throttles with trumpets. extractors hoping for mabye 150 kwatw

when i took mine off there was i think three screws on each side, some light glueie stuff but not much but there are about 3 force plugs on each side as well which just have to use force to pull off but try pry it off close to the plugs (you will be able to feel about where they are when u start trying to take it off) with something that wont scratch or be really really carful with a screwdriver, it went all fine when i did it

do you know if this is a striaght conversion to fit into an r33?? apart form the gearbox of course which wound need to be upgraded

i used the stock gtst pipe nice metal pipe plus it still looks stock then, only prob will be you will have to block off the blow off valve and run a t peice for one of the ventilation lines

hey scathing, i've had no wierd noises comming from my engine n the airflow seems fine, i think though sometimes it does struggle to find idle when you are sitting at the lights or whatever, but otherwise no probs, the car runs 15.5's down the 1/4 with the induction, a cat bak 2 1/4 mandral bent zorst n a heavy duty clutch, n it has a heavy arse body kit on it, so i can't c the resinator taking any power from the car

ey i duno about the rotors but the calipers are different. the non-turbo brake are smaller also depends what model you got thou not an exact science

mine is attached under the seat n plugged it, i assumed that the wire was for the dash seatbelt warning, so when theres a passenger without a seatbelt the seatbelt light lites up

depends on how much work you want to do to get it, the best way is to take off the resonator box and run a pipe straight from the throttle body to the air flow meter then to a poddy this will make a really nice suckson roar, although there has been some thoughts that you will loose power from doing this as supposibly the resonator box aides your power or something, but i found that when i did this to mine the throttle responce seemed a lot better a power seemed the same or mabye a litle more but ey might have been my brain playing tricks, i dont know if anyone has done dyno trials but ey ask around someone knows more than i do

thankz na r33 waz i read all the stuff and i knew it wasnt going to help the car i just though i would confirm it. The reason i had the intercooler on is because im getting the car ready to turbo it, i didnt pay for piping or anything it was just a test which didnt cost me anything and was fun to try out

yo im back from the day out today can i say it was a mad day wiked turn out mostly old evo's and wrx's but all fun I did my first two runs with the intercooler all piped up for anyone considering doing it DONT, i ran a 16.7 and 16.8 i did one amazing 14.15 which i think was an computer error i ran two 15.5 runs @ about 88.92 mph and i ran consistantntly 15.6-15.8 which i think is pretty good out of the n/a baby

Ey i was wondering what 1/4 mile times you guys out there are getting and a breif low down on whats done to thecar? The reason i ask is im takeing my car down to heathcote raceway tomorow with the cordia boys and i wanted to c where abouts i sit in comparason i've got a manual series 1 r33 rb25de only mods atm are zorst clutch custom intake with poddie. cars getting weighed down a bit with a real nice body kit Im in the process of turboing it and i have the intercooler all set up planning on running 1 or 2 runs with the intercooler running just to c what happens. i know there was at least one post about intercooling an n/a everyone says its not worth it n from the 10 mins of driving with it on i rekon i hasnt changed the cars power up or down but ey 1/4 mile trials will tell all of you out there that its prob not worth doing. anywayz ill post up my times at the end of the day tommoz or mabye sun if i get home to late

Ey all im tryng to find a low mount exhuast manifold and a front pipe dont have to be stock items but have to be able to be direct bolt up to a completly stock set-up, Im in melboune south east (knox city area). Oh and also bit of a strech but if anyone has a Safc II in perfect working order im very interested and will pay for posting ect if needed Thankz for the help

i got em but im in melb soz

thanks for the replys, i'll prob stay away from the millers cycle with the turbo, i orginaly came across it when i was looking at supercharging the car but that was ending up a bit to expencive, i wasnt sure on the effects of using it on a turbo but as it has been explained now i will stay away from it and just keep the boost low until i upgrade the internals.

thanks for the replys, i'll prob stay away from the millers cycle with the turbo, i orginaly came across it when i was looking at supercharging the car but that was ending up a bit to expencive, i wasnt sure on the effects of using it on a turbo but as it has been explained now i will stay away from it and just keep the boost low until i upgrade the internals.

Hey guys, im in the process of turboing my n/a atm and am planning on running the engine on a Millers Cycle, the problem is i know a bit about what the the millers cycle is and does but am not sure what sort ecu is needed to run this effectiently. Pretty much the cycle holds the intake stroke for longer creating a different store and effectivly lowering your compression ratio, so in a n/a engine with a high compression ratio this is very useful when running boost. Does anyone know what computer i will need?? What kinda cam's i will need? And i was wondering if anyone knows anyone is melbourne that will be able to tune the car in this configiration? Thanks for your help

where u located melb??