unarmed_skyline

my mate got a couple of the smoked bak drift ones and he said he found them very hard to read during the day, but other than that only heard good things bout em. although Autometer have always been what i've gone for and never steered me wrong

hey i've got a guy who's ment to be comming down at 4pm today to pick it up but i havent heard anything in couple of dayz if he doesnt show up today ill let you know, it is a standard exhaust.

ok some more parts series 2 front seats $150 each imm condishion Series 1 front passenger seat $80 immaculate condishion Series 2 rear seat $100 immaculate condishion Series 1 rear seat $70 immaculate condishion Seatbelts Series 1 & series 2 Front and rear left and right all avaliable $80 each perfect condishion no rips tears ect Tail lights with grey surround $100 each Complete set series 2 turbo brake calipers $400, will throw in rotors but are useless as they have rust on em Non turbo front brake calipers $100 Series 2 dash crash pad $250 (i paid 300 from wreckers) immaculate Roof lining $100 including roof light rear bar reo $80 brand new replica GTR spoiler $450 inc led brake light series 2 dash surround plastic $80 including clock hazard and other switchs Climate control units i have a series 1 & series 2 ones $70 each Door trims series 1 both immaculate $80 each ----Series 2 passenger immaculate $80, drivers has one mark on in $60 Drivers door needs painting $180 including glass, regulator and elecs boot $140 no spoiler I have doubles of almost all the interia plastics i will sell for $25 each less if you buy multiples, but i dont really want to go threw the hassle of posting these pick up only. Please dont hesisitate to send me offers on any stuff mention including stuff at top, would love to get rid of it for whatever i can asap so i can start fixing my daily and buy my mates car off him.

HKS cooler now sold

i got tailshaft for $100 too I could sell you my microtech lt12s with loom plug for $1500 only a few months old i used it for a month and crashed my car, would need a retune to your mods as mine was na+t. i more than that for it brand new, its one of the upgradable map ones, supposibly in a few months times you will be able to upgrade to double the mapping points or something. Also have gearbox crossmember with brand new urethane mount, for $150 In SE melb. chears Jarrod

i got a series 2 nismo 300kms one for $450??

lol check the preforance upgrades thred u posted question in, i replied there cause i didnt notice this one. Most likely they going to have to come from Japan

shouldnt be a problem with the det rods,rod bolts, head studs, crank ect everything excluding the piston its self. Try pming paul from preformance-wise he gets all his stuff from japan, and he's an awesome guy to deal with, got a fair bit of stuff from him very quick turn around from japan to. i doubt there will be anything locally avaliable. Also Just Jap might be able to get you some.

pm replied, may also strip parts of the shell if anyone is interested. Also Price drop on HKS intercooler kit now $450 firm Momo airbag steering wheel $450 Nismo dash $420 Shell $2400 Have interest in some items Radiator on Hold Exhaust on Hold Cheers Jarrod

when i was testing i didn't actually use the bango fitting just the bolt which you can see the holes and it is not blocked, i also tried with no bolt which is how the engine was straigh up and still no oil out of the gallery, im asumming it may have been blocked off with a gasket or more likely welding but the only reason to do this is if the motor was originally turbo and un-turboed with na spec pistons as im sure Albi would notice if it had 8:1 compression it would drive like a dog with no legs!!! I also checked for oil residue but the screw thred on the provision was slightly rusted so cleatrly there was no oil, im stumped never seen or cant see a purpose for this, mabye i need to take a closer look but lots of effort to do, anyone got idea?

Droning sux for passengers in a skyline as if you sit in the back your closer in the exhaust so its way louder. Though i might also mention even after i changed my 2 1/2 inch system to a 2 1/4 system i had it tested and pulled 99DB which is 3 times louder autible noise than a 90Db exhaust system. you can make any exhaust size loud you just have to know what to and not to include on the system and how to make it flow, and exhaust shop should be able to make it up for you.

with a 3 inch you'll loose far to much low end that you wouldn't be happy with it, you can acheive the sound your looking from a 2 1/2 inch cat back with no resonater and a straight threw muffler and a cannon. I had this set-up for a week on my Na 33 a few years back and it only lasted on the car for a week for me because it was way to loud could be heard from 3 + streets away. Also remember an na will always be way louder and have higher pressure out the exhaust as there is no turbo to restrict the flow and rob power from the exhaust heance quietening it, Sizing is also important in na's as you need to keep better backpressure as with a slight bit more backpressure the exhaust will actually flow better, this is not the case in a turbo exhaust as you just want all your exhaust pressure kept in the manifold into the turbo and then you need the freest flowing exhaust you can get. I think Cara on here has a 3" system on her 34 and it sounds tough as, although her car is used for a lot of dyno comp's so having a bigger system will help as she no doubt gained a bit of high end power you'll almost never use on the street, she will have lost some low end torque and for a street car you want as much torque as u can get hope that helps Cheers Jarrod

the engine is still all together, the head has not been removed, and yes i tried reving the motor whilst it was turned off, but enven if i had not the gallery was never blocked off so if i had not have tried the gallery would have been pissing out with oil when in normal driving as there was not blanking bolt (or whatever u call it). But even so when i tried fitting the olt and bango fitting into the the block and started and reved the engine there was still no oil coming out, so it just exmplify's my thought that it is blocked off somewher but im not sure where, what can i do to find out where it is blocked off without removing the head or drilling any hole, im assuming for some reason it may be welded or blocked shut from the inside of the block (which would be impossible for me to un-do without removing the head), in japan for some reason, mabye to convert the engine to na from turbo with a piston change (possibly fetching more money as na's with current flux in na prices) i cannot think of any other reason for this to have been done as it still has the thread for the blanking plus so why change the blocking off proceedures between series 1 & 2 blocks?? anyone got any ideas???? i need a few idea to brainstorm at least! ps from eugs last pic with circled lines as for oil lines the top left one is the feed line which we are talking about the bottom left one which is the oil return i'm quite sure is not on the na blocks as i've never seen one the other is the water return line!.

Yes it can be made to fit either series 1 or 2 as it doesnt have a grill, i think it was originally for a series 1 as it needs a little work to make it fit perfectly on series 2, the cracks full cracks not hairlines, but i have re-glassed the back's of most of them need to rub bak and reglass the front then spray it, if you havent done it before its not the hard although if your not the cluie i wouldn't attempt it

it is the correct spot i just checked with my car, although the problem is i was trying to run the feed line for albi's car and that feed hole is normally blocked off with a bolt which wasnt there and so im not sure how its blocked off as i put a screw drived to test depth on the hole, and it went in a good 2-3 inchs before getting stopped so in thery there should be oil comming out of it but it was never blocked off in the first place so im stumped as to how its blocked

ok back in town now, replied to all pm's and pm sent to above post.

hey eug great pic that helps heaps, see the oil feed line on that block! on mine it was capped off with a plug, but on albi's it was open and not blocked off, we even tried fitting the line in and cranking the motor to see if there was any oil squirting out and nothing with comming out so not sure how its blocked off

hey man, duno if you noticed in my post mines from a 33, if you still want it pm me a price and ill let you know

1997 r33 shell, repairable write off which was in elecetrical fire i have fixed 90% of the flame damage $1000, needs viv for re-register but is complicenced, perfect for drift or project for someone. will sell with complete interia minus front seats, steering wheel and speedo cluster. has no brakes diff drive/tail shafts no engine or trans. SOLD 20 or 30 mm wide front fiberglass fenders, highfilled twice and painted candy apple red $180 SOLD R32 turbo almost no shaft play (r33 actuator) $200, with elbo rb25 exhaust manifold no cracks $50 Also got GTR bar to suit GTST think series 1 got somecracks that need some work $100 SOLD Brand new replica gtr spoiler with led light $250 Located in se melb, prices are ONO, not willing on posting most stuff but may at buyers cost. PM me Cheers Jarrod msg or call me on 0401011380

yum yum yum, drool enjoy, now this is how a na manifold should look

thinking about parting out now, pm me

theres quite a lot of discussion on this topic in the na section, have a search in there, it depends on how much you've already done to your car really, although with the current price drop in skylines the na's are holding more value then some of the turbo's so u might end up on the plus side of a straight swap insed of forking out the big dollars

the rb26 plenum has indiviudual throttle bodies not only 2, unlike the greddy which only has one, they both face the fron but in 33's the battery is already in the boot although it is quite a tight fit for a pod to fit on the drivers side of the engine bay, ideally the best way to do it would be run the individual throttle bodies of the 26 plenum and then run individual intake tubes with a trumpet on each ran on to pf where coil paks are and run an ecu which runs map sensor ie microtech so you can get rid of the afm, if anyone has seen it there is an rb30de with rb26head which was built in japan which had picturs floating round, this set-up was done that way and along side with a port and polish some cams and cam gears with some upgraded valve spring is probably the best na rb25 intake/head set-up you'll be able to make. OHHH i can just imadgine the sound and the throttle responce, do it and post us the vid

what about an rb25de motor, boxm loom n ecu from a manual r33???

up the top she goes