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Everything posted by unarmed_skyline
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my bad, i only re-read something about auto dyno's, forgot you had manual, i really shouldn't be half reading when im studying
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Also i'd like to make a note that Power Fc's do not work on auto's so they're pretty much out of the picture. i think a few of the others can run autos but cant remember exactuly which ones, i have also read somewhere that it is possible to run a power fc and piggyback the stock ecu to run the auto shifting, i think you have to splice in the sensor wires and wire in the solinoid wires. I would suggest your best option would be something like the greddy emanage blue piggy back or a motec 600 piggy backed, or as Eug said a SAFC & SITC but the sitc's are discontiuned and can be had to find.
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well we defonatly need someone. so how about we get greg or someone who knows who to ask, to ask if they would let someone get mod status and then start a nomination poll with anyone whos interested, thats probably the fairest way to do it,
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you got my vote if you wanna do it.
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Im going to have a tackel at some of the intake mods. Items to address. Pod filters, panel filters, cold air induction, larger throttle bodies, air flow meters. The aim with an na engine is to make it breath as much cold air as possible, the more air that the car can suck the more power you can make. Upgrading Panel filters are good because they still use the standard cold air intake whilst providing extra flow. they are good for a starting mod as their easy no mod instalation but when looking for huge power figures the standard air box/cold air feed will not provide enough air Upgrading to a pod style filter can be the best sucktion upgrade you can do or the worst. Theres been lots of tests done to which pod filter suck's and filters best heres one example of higher end filters. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html. Now if these filters are just tacked onto your intake after the a/f meter they suck in lots of hot air and can actually loose power. The only effective way to run a pod filter is to run it with some type of heat sheilding. There are sevral different ways to run your heat sheiding, you can just run some sheilding over the section of the pod which is most exposed to heat, the other way to do it is to run some sort of separation box or compleatly inclosed box. On top of heat sheilding to run a good intake you will need some sort of cold air intake, the more cold air the better. There are so many options to how to run your cold air pretty much you need to run some sort of pipeing from the front bar up to your pod or panel filter. You can go over the headlight like the standard one but try and run a wider mouth or you can feed it up from the bottom, you could do this effectivly by cutting a hole where the standard turbo intercooler piping normally goes. There are provisions for the holes already there and this will not take from the strutural integrity of the chasis. Larger throttle bodys. Best option most people go for is the xf throttle body. it either65 or 68mm cant remmeber. there are other options but the xf one seems to be the best size and ease to fit. Throttle body mods wont normally give you much of a power increase but they increase responce as the car can only breath as much as the capacity of the engine when on full throttle. there was some disscussion into 90mm Q45 throttle body but they are too big. its best when putting a bigger throttle body on to increase all piping size to suit including the a/f meter otherwise you will create air flow restrictions. This link is a guide on how to fit an XF throttle body to an rb30 but can be applied to all rb's. http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...F_Throttle_body This is a guide and disscsion on twin throttle bodies/a/f meters http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/2-...throttle+bodies Not best wording but the links will be usefull
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Which Is The Loudest Pod Filter
unarmed_skyline replied to R34TRK's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
lol +3, but this thread really should be closed rather than us complaining there's another thred open lol -
ew nice cake always come out brown. but seriously i would love someone to make a cake like that for me GRRR my family and friend what do they ever do for me, all i want is a skyline cake (and lots of money to go towards the skyline) tis pretty easy to please me but pft stocks and jocks just dont quite do it for me
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read anywhere in any manual and you'll always find that excessive idleing is bad for a car be it hot or cold, letting it warm up a little is good but you still only warm up the engine its best to just cruise for a little while to warm up all moving parts ie engine, trans and diff. warm down is nessecary for track work and high speed runs or excessive thrashing but as eug says the engine cools down via the coolant and the only way to cool down coolant is air flow and moving air threw the radiator is much more effictive way then making the fan's doing the job, also the fans dont kick in untill a certain tempreture so if your below that temp letting the car idle will only increase the engine temp not reduce it Turbo timers are designed for the turbo to cool down and now they are primarly desiged for OIL only cooled turbos to cool down, the way the stock oil heat exchangers work they do not need air flow to cool the oil to the desired tempriture and flow is the best way to cool the turbo and let it spin down from 50,000 ish rpm to idel rpm, but these days the turbos are lubricated with oil and cooled with coolant (most good turbos that is, cheapies still run primitive systems) and the only way to cool coolant is air flow threw the radiator. and as eug said excessive idleing is ment to induce premature bearing wear, turbo timers are the biggest wank factor if they were really so good and nessacary they would be a stock item on stock turbo or na cars, yet name me a car which has one from factory?? As for the a/f ratio cara and anyone else, the stock oxy sensor doesnt run a wideband sensor and is only really good enough with keeping emissions down, and is no way neer good enough to determine if the car is running lead stoich or rich, you need a proper sensor which runs more than 1 volt to determine the actual reason, even the after market a/f ratio gauges are pointless without the right sensor to back it up. PS sorry about the essay and the spelling mistakes lots of beer make me slir my typing
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yes it is worth it, everyone on here thats had them said they gain quite a lot out of them, if you do a search all the pro and cons have been gone over a few times, and i think eug is doing another group buy at the moment too so have a look at group buy section
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common sense is great, the problem is a lot of people that i know that had turbo timers never even thought of the rammifications of having it on all the time and just though the wank factor was cool, if everyone on the roads drove with common sence we'd do prob half the traffic cops outa a job.
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think what she ment is she doesn't use the countdown function, for $100 the air fuel ration, battery voltage, O2 sensor sensors are pretty cool, i've also seen ones with 1/4 mile 1 mile times and g-force take off lap time and lots of other wanky things that are probably more usefull that the turbo timer itself, i guess its a lot safer if you always have it set on 0 then when u do hammer it doing fully sick burnouts for 10 mins or it u been track or drag racing u can then set it appropriatly, this would be a little safer and if its got some rice bits it would be worth the obceanly cheap price tag they normally have
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Wtb: Stock Rb25det Parts, Turbo, Manifold, Etc
unarmed_skyline replied to J3TR33's topic in Wanted to Buy
he's in se vic -
Good Panel Repairer / Painted In Western Suburbs?
unarmed_skyline replied to Spunky Munky's topic in Victoria
Rugolo motor body works in ascot vale, they do porshe's ferrari, audi, honda, nissan ect pretty much every make but mostly high end stuff, talk to franco or danni they'll help ya out -
I HATE TURBO TIMERS! ill give u 2 resons to argue the point of the things 1) The idea of the turbo timer has killed out in time these day they were important with oil only cooled turbos because they took longer times to cool down, now days on a street car most of the time when your comming to your destination you dont just tharsh it and kill the engine, when your coming home esp u dont trash it neer your neighbours and hit boost ect and this low rev normally is enough to cool it down only takes 30 secs so just cruise the last couple streets and your all good. 2) now this is the biggie esp cause everyone will argue my point 1 its a bit ambigious, Ok a turbo timer is desigened to keep engine running for x amount of time after shut down and the only way to kill that shut down is to press the little button, so in the event of an accident the car may stall but the fuel pump will still keep priming fuel, and all the elecs ect will all be oprable so what happens if something catchs on fire?? with everything still priming, even still what say the engine doesnt stall but u need to kill the engine because of a fire u cant just simpily rip out the keys and bang no power no nothing u still got to reach over and push that little button and really it the cars on fire i wanna get outa there ASAP Turbo timers are dangourous and unsafe hence why they are illegal. there are some good point and some flauws to what i have written but u can kinda get my idea, agian everyones opinions are diff, just though id put my side out there
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Nismo Single Wiper Arm Kit
unarmed_skyline replied to leeboi33's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
im looking to save some weight too, anyone know any kits so i can run only 1 headlight in the middle and spray the light to the sides?? Nismo would have to have optioned one a 1 stage, R33 series 2 pm me ROFL -
How Can I Check If I Got Done By Red Light Camera?
unarmed_skyline replied to Rekin's topic in Victoria
did you see a flash?? duno how u can check but if they send you out something write a letter saying the circumstances chances are they will let you off. I assume that the would somehow be able to tell if the light are stuch on red for extended perid of time -
Hey i've got one in se melb, for series 2 r33, the plugs between series 1 and 2 are different. pm me a price and we can sort it out from there Cheers Jarrod
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hey ask same question in na section its been cover lots and lots of times might get better answers, but here ya go As for ecu yeh go the rb20det ecu should be fine and safe tune but to get 180-200 it would need to be rom chipped ie by dr drift or the likes, or get an safc, emanage or the likes, You will also need a fuel pump, crossover pipe with bov and of course intercooler and piping, and front pipe. you shouldnt need an afm but mine blew when i did turbo conversion may have just been old cause no-one else who's done the conversion has had a problem. Head gasket isnt required but with you will be limited with boost, on stock ecu i wouldnt go passed stock boost on a tuneable ecu it depends on the tunner but you should be safe enough to run 10psi, 12 max but i and most others wouldn't suggest over 10, boost will come on reallly early i think i get full boost at around 2000rpm on stock turbo all the parts needed can be sourced as stock items and will run fine but to get 200 you would prob need some better than stock items ie front mount, exhaust, fuel pump ecu and mabye a fpr should get you there and it will be nice and torque esp compaired to an rb20. Hope that helps your descision cheers Jarrod
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engine managment is good Pretty much you can use anything the turbo guys use, ive got a plug and play microtech lt12s think they're around $1300 + $500 for loom and $600ish+ for a tune. Other wise you could get a power fc if u find one they're around $1500 +$300 for a tune but i dont think they work with autos link i think they are around the same price but limited places to tune them Wold 3d i think they are under 2k the rest are all really expencive really You could get a piggy back greddy e-manage blue i think they are around $800 ish plus install and tune Dont get an safc, i used safc with my na+t and it couldnt push enough fuel into the car cause they only have an increace capibility of 10 or 15% not very good
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well in a word NO, lol u need an auto gtst ecu or an aftermarket that will work with auto, as for turbos, stock r32/r33 or anything around the gt28-30ish size would be good size depends on how much money u want to spend on it. idealy something like a stock high flow would be best cause then its not epaable (yes i made up a word lol )but anything is that sorta size would be good
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if you keep all your na parts you could always convert it back to na if u were going to sell it or if u were done by cops. As for the cops thou if u wanted to make it legal you have to have all emmisions devices and need to upgrade brakes other than that because its a turbo kit that has passed emmissions im quite sure there wouln't be any problems. As for smart cops all you would need is to convert to 5 stud and take the gts badge off the rear and it would be impossible to tell if you were pulled over, and if your not on your p's there would be no reason the cops would look into by checking rego details model code ect. as for later limitations my car originally made 160@wheels last dyno with mostly stock items no front mount but microtech and upgraded fuel system running on 5psi, when i eventually get everything back together i now have a big front mount and a few other goodies should get 200ish with some uped boost and 230ish should be possible with a bigger turbo, with the responce of the car i dont think you would want to keep going and going with power but even as with a gtst anything 250 and above you would have to start pulling the engine apart and upgrading. A set of new forgies or even gtr internals should be sweet enough to help up the power. On the down side the gearbox and diff will brake earlier and the brakes Should be upgraded but they if your planning on building anything with a decent amount of power out of a gtst most people upgrade the diff and brakes anyways so you wouldnt be out that much there. Another down side would be your insurance will go up. All things considered there are good things and bad things y to or not to do it but its a personal choice because everyones wants and needs out of a car are different. Its best to sit down and think what you really want out of your car and asses what works for you. If really happy with the power of the na as is which is pretty nice and just want a little bit more kick chances are turboing will satisfy ur needs for quite a while if not indefinate.