DVS JEZ

Yep. Its a highflow cat now. 1cell. 1st run made 210kw and had a slight ping. 2nd run made 93kw with less timing 3rd run more boost 145kw Then started the diagnosing. Dropped exh from front of cat and made 195 with low timing but still a little laggy. So we pulled the dump pipe off and it looked like the wastegate flap wasnt sealing, so abit of emery paper cleaned it up. Now the boost was nice and responsive and we could start tuning

Lol oh that boss, she was alright. Had to go shopping today but as punishment.

What power are u making Room?

Haha Boydy wishes he was my boss, he's a good mate and happens to have a dyno.

Yep seems right.

Was plenty of preload, around 8mm atleast. Had a prick of a time getting it back on. How was the hks heatshield aye. The bracket bolts to the the top dump pipe flange and looks like it stops the wastegate flapper arm from opening completely

With the profec b turned off it ran 8 psi creeping to 13, but that was before the restriction was fixed. Didnt check after that. Haha Michael i said the same thing to him

WOW what a night, glad we worked through the little issue's, cause once they were sorted the power was appearing more and more, 277kw without reaching the knock limit of the motor on only 18psi, i am very impressed with the setup u have built dave, all the hard work u have put into it really shows. One of the nicest engine bays i have seen, I can't believe how cool the plenum was after continous runs, The Craved coatings work a treat. Then the road test. Dave was nice enough to let me take his car for a squirt up the road, makes mince meat of his semi slicks with near stock response. 16psi at 3100 was very impressive. E85 would be good to see next, well once its more readily available and ur little 555cc injectors have been upgraded

So it worked with z32 ecu when u first fitted it? Or only with the stock ecu?

Was the drivers window working before? Sometimes its not the switch thats the issue, theres a black window relay on the bottom right of the drivers door(need to take the door card off to access it), Take this off and pop it open, the solder joints get dry and cracked, check these and resolder if needed

I had a customers R33 do this about 2 weeks ago, luckily the bolt wasnt snapped just really loose.

Borrow an AFM to try

Have a search through the forum. There should be plenty of info on what ur after

Price it all up including fuel pump and injectors etc. Then price up an rb20 or 25 conversion. Have a think ahead about what ur plans are including power goals etc.

Just hardwire the vct to see if the response is better. If the vtc isnt wired in it wont affect top end power. What boost are u running and what power is it making?

Will be fine mate. Might need some degreaser but

Diesels work differently. Skylines and most petrol cars have an electronic signal from the ecu to the dash

Get a test light and check the power at the plug. If the high stop light was fitted for compliance chances are the wire is broken where they joined into the stock loom (possibly)

Haha agreed he can be a little hard to get a hold of. Buthe always comes through with the goods

Have a google and check for the ecu pinout, i have never seen the emanage wiring but it will have a tacho out that "should" be connected to the dash loom near the ecu

Is the battery charged? Use a test light to trace the power to where it stops or if there is any power in the battery. The charge indicator looks red in the pic. Need a better picture of the 3rd wire u speak of. What sort of end does it have

Best to get it on a dyno to check the AFR's. Also try a smaller spark plug gap like .8mm

Moar boost to compensate

I can ask paul tomorrow. Send me a msg to remind me. Surely he will know

Is it the same driver